Question about Hoover Vacuums
These motors have a fuse incorporated in the field winding and it sounds like that blew. These motors sometimes overheat at the front bearing and the bearing will melt into the plastic housing. This will cause the fuse to blow. It sounds like that's your problem. You can remove the motor by removing the three screws on the bottom of the powerhead and then check the front bearing for any bubbling or blistering in the plastic housing. The shaft of the motor should turn easily.
Posted on Jan 27, 2008
There is a height adjustment on these vacuums and they are set to adjust in the "handle up" position". It will appear that the adjustment is doing nothing when the handle is up, but the setting will take affect when the handle is lowered.
You can check the brush length with a pen or pencil. Turn the machine over so that the brush is visible and run the pen or pencil flat across the bottom plate. Any where the brush is extending outward, your pencil should contact the bristle. If not, then the agitator should be replaced.
Also, check to make sure that the agitator is rotating freely and that the filters and bag are allowing for adequate suction. The machine will only pick up if the air flow is sufficient.
Posted on Mar 23, 2008
How to replace power cord on Hoover Windtunnel...
Posted by SaxTeacher on Apr 15, 2008
The cord on my Hoover Windtunnel upright vacuum is damaged from having been run over while vacuuming. I purchased a replacement power cord, agitator brush, belt, and filters from the Hoover web site.
I have installed the new brush, belt, and filters. I'm ready to install the replacement cord, but I can't figure out how to access the interior part of the vacuum! I tried removing many different screws but none of them seemed to give me access to the necessary area. Any help would be appreciated!
I would advise you to ALWAYS to FIRST UNPLUG YOUR VACUUM before beginning any service procedure.
Hoover U6616-900 Windtunnel Bagless Upright
Depending on where the cord comes out, you may want to check the owner’s manual for the exploded view of the cord area. Usually the cord comes out of the handle and there should be handle screws to release the existing cord and when you replace the cord mark the wires so that you will replace the new cord in the same manner. If it comes out of the body of the vacuum there are recessed screws that will let out into the vacuum to replace the cord. You don’t want to exceed the repairs cost to the price of what you paid for it. The decision should be yours, example: if the repairs costs are $200.00 and you paid $279.99 then @ that point you would have to decide if the repair costs are worth or do you want to pay the lower cost of repair and continue on. Just a suggestion... You may want to check with your local vac dealer. So if you need further assistance, please feel free to contact your local vacuum cleaner dealer in your area or in the yellow pages, or contact the factory phone number or website to further assist you with your questions.
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Posted on May 07, 2008
1. Remove the 4 screws holding the bottom plate.
2. remove roller and old belt
3. install new belt on motor spindle first and then on roller.
4. pull roller, stretching belt, set into roller cavity.
5. turn roller by hand to center belt.
6. reinstall bottom plate.& screws
Posted on Feb 28, 2009
Take the lower plate off of the unit and check the belt for breakage. also, if it isn't broken, are there any obstructions between the belt and housing?
Posted on Jan 29, 2010
I'm not sure about a 3 month old vac, I'd probably go the warranty route. However, for the older vacs thy start getting false positives. The sensor is simply a microphone hooked to a computer chip detecting sounds of dirt entering the bag.
To rig it to start working, you'll need to remove the tool accessory tray and elbow that enters the back of the vac, and attached to the bag. This will reveal the microphone at the elbow, and wire that runs into the bottom area of the vac. When on, a large amount of air comes from the bottom screw and area where the wires enter. My fix was to clean up the microphone contact points a little bit with a screwdriver, and then leave the vac running while putting in dampering in the hole at the bottom, and around the back of the elbow. Cotton balls and electrical tape at the bottom hole, and napkins around the outside of the elbow (wedged between the back of the vac assembly and elbow did the trick). The schematic for the vac is here: http<colon>//www<dot>vacsrus<dot>com/CartGenie/pg_U6485900<dot>asp
Look for micrphone.
Posted on Jun 27, 2010
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