I've built several electronic pieces throughout the years. I even made an O2/Fuel meter that retails for @$200. I built 2 for about $11. (A little more considering I bought several resistors, IC chip sockets, boards, and LED's- Was going to make a lot of them- plus, cheaper in bulk) Like I was saying, based on the research on the net, it appears the RCA flyback is bad. I desoldered it and noticed the discolorations on the flyback and a gray/brown area off center on the board where it was attached. As a kid, I used to fix cordless phones (one of which had the board broken IN HALF). I'm also familiar with the use/operations of diodes, resistors, capacitors, transformers, reprogramming automotive PCM's (made my own "dump" program for reprogramming EECIV Ford by using two trashed computers for their plugs and making a J4 to do it) and a lot more. When it comes to TV's and how to make them work- yeah, I don't have an overall understanding why mine will not come on. That's particularly the reason I posted in the first place-
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If you have several other Vista 200s (like in an office) you may get the specific voltage\amperage\and connector design from another power adapter. If you have that info there are many retail electronic stores that sell universal power adapters that may fit your needs. The owners manual may also designate the required voltage\current.
The first thing you have not checked is fuel pressure. The pressure could be low, or the fuel filter could be clogged. It takes more fuel to run the engine in the first 5 minutes until it warms up than under normal conditions. The codes mean the sensors are not giving the computer the readings they should, but it does not always mean the sensors are faulty. If the engine is running rough, or the fuel mixture is lean, the sensors will show that. Code 44 is O2 sensor reading lean which may be true. Code 33 is MAP sensor reading low vac which may also be true. Another possible cause is the coolant temp sensor may not be telling the computer the right thing. If it tells the computer the coolant is 200 degrees and the engine is cold, you won't get enough fuel thru the injectors.
Earl! You could have bought a new car! Ah, but you must love this Ford truck, it's obvious from the never- say- die parts list. How long has this project been going on? If you plan on finishing it yourself. here's my thoughts: Invest in a good scan tool (about $150-$200), a good compression tester ($40), a vacuum gauge ($15), a multi-meter (your choice-a useful one starts as low as $20, a digital volt-ohmmeter (multi-meter) designed for auto electronics is desireable), and last, maybe a fuel pressure tester to round out the list (about $40). Maybe you have all or some of these already. They are all good diagnostic tools you will find very helpful in getting to the root of your problem. The place to start is with the scan tool. Look at trouble codes, look at live stream data. Both will help you a lot. Do a compression test. Find out the internal condition of the engine. New parts are good. Now make them work.
This lens lacks the electronics to communicate with the camera. You need to set the aperture to its smallest setting (as you've done) and switch to the manual exposure mode (turn the mode dial to M). You'll get no exposure assistance from the camera's light meter. You can use a separate light meter and/or adjust the exposure by reviewing your pictures.
One of the two contacts for that key is not working. This could be dirty or damaged contact. They use a conductive rubber pills that the key presses against circuit board traces. One contact makes before the other and this is how velocity is sensed. Unless you are adept at this repair, I would recommend you take it in for repair. Chances are any part cost is negligible... mostly labor to open and access the contacts for cleaning. Clean ONLY with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q TIps... VERY GENTLY.
I have to agree that someone is definitely looking for Christmas cash! The full retail from the Manufacturer (MSRP) is only $650.00 and you can locate this part online from anywhere from $288.00 top $359.00. Labor should be 1 -1.5 hours to install. Our book rate at WeFixUglyPools.com is $535.00 installed for this part. You might consider calling around or ordering the part and having someone come out and just charge hourly for the install.
Pentair Warrants their heaters and heater parts for a period of 2 years, so if you are within your 2 year period, you are in luck! There is an exception to this, however. If you have built the pool recently, or purchased 3 separate pieces of equipment (i.e.; Pump, filter and heater) then you will find that your warranty on ALL your Pentair items is extended to 3 years from the manufacturer.
If you have 3 pieces of Pentair Equipment: Call Pentair Tech Support and ask them to e-mail you document P3-160L.pdf (or click on the link provided). Several things can cause a circuit board to go bad: electrical surges, moisture, or rodents. It is always better to have someone out that understands the heaters and can fully diagnose your failure, but it is great that you though enough about the price presented to see advice elsewhere...now take some of the money and put it in your own Christmas Stocking!