Have a rinnai high efficiency 30 every thing seems to be working ok but dosnt seem to be throwing out much heat. my gas stove also seems to be not geeting full flame ,checked tap on the meater and is fully turned on any idears thanks ian

It is just a model designation.
R = Rinnai
H= High (probably)
F- furnace
E = Efficiency

RHFE-556FA? / FTRA? - Rinnai

https://media.rinnai.us > salsify_asset > RHFE-556...
PDF
RHFE-556FA? / FTRA?. ENERGYSAVER. GAS DIRECT VENT WALL FURNACE. INSTALLER: Leave this manual with the appliance. CONSUMER: Retain this manual for future ...

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  RHFE-556WTA - Rinnai

  https://media.rinnai.us > salsify_asset > RHFE-556...
  PDF
  RHFE-556WTA. ENERGYSAVER. GAS DIRECT VENT WALL FURNACE. INSTALLER: Leave this manual with the appliance. CONSUMER: Retain this manual for future reference.

RHFE-1004FA

https://www.questargas.com > ForEmployees > Ri...
PDF
RHFE-1004FA. ENERGYSAVER. GAS DIRECT VENT WALL FURNACE. INSTALLER: Leave this manual with the appliance. CONSUMER: Retain this manual for future reference.
60 pages

sounds like the heating element is going bad..its probably intermittant..

I have the same issue, Flashing PF after off /on. The burner fires up and seems to heat OK but still flashing

You can try www.sdsmarket.com/rinnai-parts-lists-s/750.htm. Thank you.

Hate to lead someone to some random solution without nowing more details but I had the exact same fault and symptons to sort out last year. On that particular one it was the gas regulator on an LPG supply. I found that a fault on the regulator caused it to lock out when the high demand from the heater kicked in, especially in the colder weather. If the customer started the gas demand gradually, using the gas cook top, all worked ok. I never really understood the how on this one but I just changed the regulator, making sure the new one was well oversized for the demand. New regulators just don't seem to be reliable anymore!
Hope this helps, at least if your at the stage where you just want to try something it gives you an option.

Maintaining the lowest acceptable setting and leaving it at that temperature is the most economical way to run the unit. If the space is going to be unoccupied for an extended time (several hours), lower temperatures are okay. This minimizes the need to burst the heat to warm the space quicker. As I understand your unit, it minimizes electrical & gas consumption by basing the need on the temperature difference of actual space temperature and setpoint. The larger the gap, the more power and gas is consumed.
In summary, when the space is occupied, maintain a consistent temperature setting. When the space is unoccupied, maintain a lower setpoint.

Hope this helps. Good Luck. :-)

For some reason it seems the safety protection is activated? Perhaps a faulty thermocouple? Usually that anyway. Or electronics have failed.

The EE-8 indication means there is insufficient air flow to the combustion pot to atomize and ignite the fuel. Check your air switch for a closed condition when the blower is operating.

Do you have the Economy button on? If so, and you have a large space to heat or the outside temp is very cold the unit may not be able to keep up. If this is the case the stove runs forever, trying to reduce the temp by 2 degrees every 30 minutes. This may not work for your space and outside temp.

Your ideas about the intake and exhaust are not quit right. There is a fan that pulls air from outside over the outside of the exhaust pipe (to preheat it). This fan actually pushed the combustion gasses all the way out the exhaust. The exhaust exiting should be a little hot. In very cold temps, frost can build up around the air intake, which is right around the exhaust pipe. If you see this you will need to keep it clean. It is a good idea to look at the exhaust everyday when it really cold.

Good luck,

Tom Hawkins
Bethel, Alaska
[email protected]