Question about Refrigerators

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Whirlpool gb22dkxgw00 This is the real model number for my unit. It turns out the tube on the back of the unit is the supply line for the ice maker. I found a more rigid tube running from the bottom of the freezer (lower unit) and flushed it. It flushed easily. I disconnected the defrost timer and jumped the yellow to black. The yellow wire looks as if it powers a heater or some sort of capacitor. Nonetheless, crossing the yellow to black causes the fans to run, then something clicks which slows the fans a bit. I was hoping that was the compressor, but after a few minutes, it clicked again. No other combination of wire jumping caused any action. Help!!! Things are thawiing out. Thanks

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  • 8 more comments 
  • kupgas May 18, 2011

    I know jumping wires is not the best solution, but I asked the previous tech if there was a way to bypass the defrost timer, since he thought it might be bad.

  • kupgas May 18, 2011

    I don't think it's starting. The temp doesn't get below 45 degrees F.

  • kupgas May 18, 2011

    Last night I took the starter off the compressor and shook it. It did not rattle. I did notice before I shut the unit down that the compressor was hot to touch. It didn't feel it vibrating or hear it whirring. Is there a way to check tihe starter switch with an ohmmeter, or do I just buy a new one, along with the defroster timer?
    Thanks

  • kupgas May 19, 2011

    Hello,
    I replaced the starter relay, the freezer control turns the whole unit off at the off position, and back on when I turn it up to "1". The lights turn back on, the fans come on and in a few seconds, I hear a click, which dims the lights and slows the fans a bit. Then, in less than six seconds, another click. In a few minutes it starts all over again. The freezer has no cold in it. Temp is 65 degrees F.

  • kupgas May 19, 2011

    I replaced the starter relay and it's still cycling on and off. Thanks for the advice about requesting my money back. They refunded my money. Is there a way to sign up for a consultation and request you, since I only paid 5 dollars for your advice.
    Thanks,
    kupgas

  • kupgas May 20, 2011

    Are you getting my replies? I replaced the starter relay. Compressor starts for 6 seconds, then off for 2 minutes. Lights and fans work. Freezer at room temp.

  • kupgas May 20, 2011

    I replaced the starting relay from a local shop, and the symptoms remain. When the unit is plugged in, the lights and fans come on, and in about 15 seconds, I hear a click. The lights and fans dim and slow slightly. (compressor starting?). Then in about 6 seconds, another click without dimming or slowing.(compressor off?) The guy at the local shop says I may need a "hard start". About $40. What do you think?
    Thanks,
    kupgas

  • kupgas May 21, 2011

    Woodchuck,
    I appreciate your comments. With the defrost timer out of the defrost mode (cooling), the compressor fan comes on, the lights work when the doors are opened and I think the compressor tries to start, but shuts down after about 5 seconds. This may have started out as a defrost problem, but this unit is room temp now. I have replaced the starting relay. Also, if I leave the unit on for a while, the compressor gets really warm.
    Any thoughts?
    thanks,
    kupgas

  • kupgas May 21, 2011

    I replied to your previous post, but wasn't sure if it would notify you, so I did it here.

  • kupgas May 23, 2011

    Although defrosting was not the problem with my unit, (It was a dead compressor), His explanation was thorough. After checking all the components of the unit, it became clear the compressor either was very low on coolant, or the compressor was gone.
    Thanks

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3 Answers

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  • Master
  • 4,059 Answers

I can't tell what your symptoms are from your post but the rigid hose was the defrost drain hose. It doesn't affect cooling. You seem to have a defrost problem since you mentioned the defrost parts so here is an explanation which may help.

DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Posted on May 20, 2011

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  • Master
  • 3,740 Answers

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
The symptom your describing about the something clicks... the fans slow a bit..probably for about 40 seconds then a 3 to 4 minute repeat click is the compressor trying to start but the thermal overload is cycling vs the compressor starting.

Some tests you need to do....
1. The capacitor is item 18 of this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=250787&diagram_id=28196532#d28196532
Remove one connection from the capacitor and then test it with a meter using resistance on R x 10K. Probe it... watch for a momentary jump in resistance and then drift to infinity. Reverse the test leads on the capacitor terminals and proble again watching for the jump and drift to infinity quickly. If you get a jump and drift to infinity each time you reverse the meter leads the capacitor is good.
2. Using the same link above
Remove the cover from the side of the compressor... NOTE how that clip is installed!!!!
Pull off both the PTC start relay Item 15 and the thermal overload item 12 at the same time.
Use your meter now on R x 1000 and read the 3 compressor terminals as follows
C to the case of the compressor (Should read open)
C to S (start winding) should read less than 1000 ohms
C to R (Run winding) Should also read less than 100o ohms.
S to the case of the compressor (no grounds allowed)
R to the case of the compressor (No grounds allowed)
If the compressor passes this test... then replace the PTC relay. item 15.
No matter what any Tech will do this...i.e replace the PTC relay...

Look on the label of the compressor... there is an LRA value in Amps. LRA is Locked Rotor Amperage. If the compressor bearings or piston has failed an amp meter cliped over the power cord will show this value or slightly higher. Having already replaced the PTC relay at this point.... you looking at a compressor change if parts changing did not restart the compressor.

Here is something to ponder... if you had a power loss of less than 5 minutes.. just unplug the unit for about 20 minutes and see if it starts back up. The systems coolant pressure must equalize before the compressor will restart. This rest period is after EACH time the compressor stops for ANY reason. Just unplug and wait 20 minutes.. then plug it back in.

Also with the defrost timer connected.. you should be able to rotate the 2 tabs on it (will only turn one directon) until you hear a CLICK. That is the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle will start if the freezer compartment evaporator coils are below 40 deg F (60 deg bi metal thermostat item 14 of the above link function) . This should take less than 30 minutes. Once the bi-metal thermostat reaches 60 deg F it powers the motor in the defrost timer to start the compressor. The defrost heater Item 10 is energized only during the defrost cycle.

You can manually turn it past the defrost cycle and restart the compressor. (2nd Click)

This should help you sort things out... If not just respond here and I wil help you.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Posted on May 21, 2011

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  • Refrigerators Master
  • 2,118 Answers

Are you saying the compressor isn't running?there's a start device on the compressor that could be bad if what you are trying to do is get the compressor running.the part number is 2319793 and it's around 30 dollars,don't cross wires in the timer or anything like that or you'll make more problems,also get a new timer if that;s what you took apart.unplug the machine,remove the back bottom panel,pop the clip off of the start device and slide it off of the compressor,give it a good shake,if you hear pieces rattling around inside it,it's bad,also it might smell burnt,when you touched the wires and the fans started to run you took it out of defrost but if the compressor didn't start check the start device and don't jump anymore wires.

Posted on May 18, 2011

  • 5 more comments 
  • Sal DeAngelo May 18, 2011

    so what's the problem you are having is it the compressor isn't running?

  • Sal DeAngelo May 18, 2011

    one more thing you can check is the controlin the freezer that you turn up to get it colder,try turning it,if it does nothing try tapping on it and see if it starts,if the control is bad it could shut the compressor down

  • Sal DeAngelo May 18, 2011

    you can check it with a meter for continuity,tell me is everything melted out in the freezer?or is it partially cold

  • Sal DeAngelo May 18, 2011

    http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdir... you must have cpied the periods or something but this will take you right to your compressor.

  • Sal DeAngelo May 18, 2011

    when you get this message,let me know if the freezer is still at the same temp.or if it melted out,any cold in the freezer at all,also did you try turning up the control,if the control sticks it can shut the fridge down,if you tap on it it could free it up so try that and feel the compressor,if you hear a clicking sound coming from it the start device will do that around every three to 5 minutes it will click.one other thing,if it is cool in the freezer you could have an inefficient compressor or a freon leak in the sealed system but let me know what you find so i can try and help you out with your problem.

  • Sal DeAngelo May 19, 2011

    sounds like you have a bad compressor,it would be cheaper to replace the machine instead of repairing it at this point,it would cost around 5 to 6 hundred dollars to replace the compressor.if the compressor is hot or warm it's getting power and the click you hear is coming from the compressor,the lights dim because it's trying to run but something is cooked inside it.i'm sure you wired the start device correctly,to make sure turn the control off,go in the back and have someone turn the control on and have your hand on the compressor,if the clicking is coming from it then it's time for a new machine.

  • Sal DeAngelo May 19, 2011

    i do this just to help people out,i work on appliances and i know things are tough for everyone so i try to help out a little,i think you can look up my name and click on it and just type what problem you're having and if i know the answer i'd be happy to help you and it's free,i don't know why you had to pay anything like i say i don't get paid to help people out but there is a part of this site that you can ask for assistance and you pay for it,i don't really know how that works,i just come on,i look at the questions and if i think i can help i answer the person,you can ask the fixya people how you can ask for me but like i say i think you can look me up and ask me your question,it stinks that you have a bad compressor,when this happens the last thing it could be is the start device or a bad compressor,at least you tried it to make sure.nice talking with you and like i say if you ever have another problem with your appliances i'd be happy to help.good luck.

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