Question about Refrigerators
I can't tell what your symptoms are from your post but the rigid hose was the defrost drain hose. It doesn't affect cooling. You seem to have a defrost problem since you mentioned the defrost parts so here is an explanation which may help.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can't flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won't turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it's bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it's in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
Posted on May 20, 2011
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly
The symptom your describing about the something clicks... the fans slow a bit..probably for about 40 seconds then a 3 to 4 minute repeat click is the compressor trying to start but the thermal overload is cycling vs the compressor starting.
Some tests you need to do....
1. The capacitor is item 18 of this link:
Remove one connection from the capacitor and then test it with a meter using resistance on R x 10K. Probe it... watch for a momentary jump in resistance and then drift to infinity. Reverse the test leads on the capacitor terminals and proble again watching for the jump and drift to infinity quickly. If you get a jump and drift to infinity each time you reverse the meter leads the capacitor is good.
2. Using the same link above
Remove the cover from the side of the compressor... NOTE how that clip is installed!!!!
Pull off both the PTC start relay Item 15 and the thermal overload item 12 at the same time.
Use your meter now on R x 1000 and read the 3 compressor terminals as follows
C to the case of the compressor (Should read open)
C to S (start winding) should read less than 1000 ohms
C to R (Run winding) Should also read less than 100o ohms.
S to the case of the compressor (no grounds allowed)
R to the case of the compressor (No grounds allowed)
If the compressor passes this test... then replace the PTC relay. item 15.
No matter what any Tech will do this...i.e replace the PTC relay...
Look on the label of the compressor... there is an LRA value in Amps. LRA is Locked Rotor Amperage. If the compressor bearings or piston has failed an amp meter cliped over the power cord will show this value or slightly higher. Having already replaced the PTC relay at this point.... you looking at a compressor change if parts changing did not restart the compressor.
Here is something to ponder... if you had a power loss of less than 5 minutes.. just unplug the unit for about 20 minutes and see if it starts back up. The systems coolant pressure must equalize before the compressor will restart. This rest period is after EACH time the compressor stops for ANY reason. Just unplug and wait 20 minutes.. then plug it back in.
Also with the defrost timer connected.. you should be able to rotate the 2 tabs on it (will only turn one directon) until you hear a CLICK. That is the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle will start if the freezer compartment evaporator coils are below 40 deg F (60 deg bi metal thermostat item 14 of the above link function) . This should take less than 30 minutes. Once the bi-metal thermostat reaches 60 deg F it powers the motor in the defrost timer to start the compressor. The defrost heater Item 10 is energized only during the defrost cycle.
You can manually turn it past the defrost cycle and restart the compressor. (2nd Click)
This should help you sort things out... If not just respond here and I wil help you.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Posted on May 21, 2011
Are you saying the compressor isn't running?there's a start device on the compressor that could be bad if what you are trying to do is get the compressor running.the part number is 2319793 and it's around 30 dollars,don't cross wires in the timer or anything like that or you'll make more problems,also get a new timer if that;s what you took apart.unplug the machine,remove the back bottom panel,pop the clip off of the start device and slide it off of the compressor,give it a good shake,if you hear pieces rattling around inside it,it's bad,also it might smell burnt,when you touched the wires and the fans started to run you took it out of defrost but if the compressor didn't start check the start device and don't jump anymore wires.
Posted on May 18, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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