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MY kENMORE HAS FREEZER ON BOTTOM, the upper refridgerator isnt cooling properly ,the fan is running. The freezer is working fine.

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Hi,

Sounds like you have a defrost problem since the freezer side is working okay . It probably is not blowing cold air into the refrigerator side , so to check the defrost circuit , unplug the refrigerator and inside the refrigerator section at the top about 2" in from each side in the back , there are "D" slots to put a finger in , and pull downward and forward , to remove the control panel cover . Once removed , there is a 1/4" screw on each side holding the adjustment indicator panel on , 1 Phillips screw behind both light bulbs , and 1 screw holding the complete panel to the rear wall . After removing these 5 screws , at the top right corner , with about 6-8 wires going to it , is the adaptive defrost board . Sometimes you can see the electronic board and on newer refrigerator's , a white box will be seen. Inside this box , is the adaptive defrost control . Disconnect the plug going to the board and on the right side of the PLUG , the far right wire is yellow , then another color , then white . Using a small insulated wire with both ends stripped , insert one end into the yellow wire hole and the other into the white wire hole . This will bypass the adaptive board and send power directly through the defrost bimetal ( thermostat ) AND heater to check if they are good .Plug the refrigerator back in . Now , wait about 3-5 min and look for a red glow at the bottom of the inside freezer panel , which will be the defrost heater or listen for sizzling which will be the frost melting and dripping onto the heater .If NO red glow , watch for a spark while removing the jumper wire you installed , from the plug . If a spark IS seen , then the heater was on and the heater AND bimetal are good . If you see the red glow , hear the sizzling , or see the spark , then the adaptive defrost board should be replaced . If no glow , sizzling or spark , then unplug the refrigerator and reinstall the refrigerator control section .
Remove the food in the freezer section enough so that the 2 screws holding the lower freezer panel on and the freezer panel , can be removed . Remove the panel . If the heater (black element at the bottom of the coils ) wires are visible , trace then to the top of the coils and disconnect . Use an ohm meter to determine if the element is good . If the element IS good , at the top of the coils , is a 1" cylinder with 2 wires , clipped onto the coils . This is the defrost thermostat ( bimetal ) . Replace this part if the element shows good . If the element shows bad , replace the element . NOTE 1 : sometimes the element and the bimetal come wired together and the replacement part comes with a new heater and bimetal already wired together . This would be the adviseable replacement part . However , each part can still be replaced individually . NOTE 2 : If looking at the bimetal and the top plastic " cap " looks cockeyed , replace the bimetal as moisture has gotten inside and disturbed its designed function .

Hope this will help to solve the problem....

Posted on May 17, 2011

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Freezer seems to be working fine, but the refridgerator is cool at best with the thermostat all the way down. I tried to defrost, but with no help. I think the fan in the freezer might be bad.


The only place that cools in a refrigerator is the freezer. The refridgerator side stills cold from the freezer via an air duct that runs from the freezer to the refridgerator. If your fan in the freezer compartment is not working your refridgerator side will not work. To replace the fan you will need to clean out the freezer including the shelving. Then remove the back panel all you need is a phillips screw driver. When the back is replaced the fan is at the top. It is held in by two screws that go threw rubber mounts on the fan braces. You will need to remove one ground wire and two electric wires on the motor its self. Make sure to unplug the refrigerator before starting the repair. good luck

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I had this problem. The Evaporator fan in the freezer was working but no air would be circulated from the freezer into the refridgerator. To test this you open the door of the freezer, and depress the door button(s) of the upper refridgerator doors so that the light extinqueshes in the refridgerator. This will engage the evaporator fan in the freezer. You can check to see if air is venting from the freezer into the refridgerator by feeling the holes at the top most part of the multi-air flow channel in the refridgerator. If air is comming out when the freezer door is open, close the freezer door and feel if air has stopped. If you have kept the upper door buttons pushed in on the refridgerator and now have the freezer door closed, you should still hear the fan running, but may have not air flow with the freezer door closed. The cause of this is the air return channel from the refridgerator to the freezer is either frozen or clogged. My return-air channel was not frozen but clogged by a residue from something that spilled inside of the bottom of the refridgerator. The return-air channel has two vents in the rear-bottom of the refridgerator that exit into the freezer behind the evaporator (cooling coils). You can't see it even if the back interior panel is removed from the freezer compartment.

The bottom line here is that if air is prevented from moving from the refridgerator, back down to the freezer, then your refridgerator will not cool, but your freezer will work just fine. You will not need to replace the fan, unless the fan is not functioning. You may need to check the dampener, to ensure that your multi-air flow channel is open - (allowing air to come into the refridgerator). The multi-air flow channel is easy to remove once all of the shelves are removed from your refridgerator. Only 2 screws holding it in (securing the center rack top and bottom). The top screw is located behind a small plastic cover that can be removed.

That's what worked for me.

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The motor that times the cycle may be stuck or running slowly. It often is located at the bottom front of the frig behind a cover that runs between the front legs. Unscrew it and you will see a small motor running, that, through gears, turns a wheel 1 rotation every 24 hours.

The wheel can also be turned by a screwdriver - turn it until you hear a click that indicates defrost cycle is off. Should solve the problem short-term.

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I just went through this with my refridgerator and actually posted one of the questions. Here is what I found ........

In the freezer compartment behind the panel there is an evaporator fan which pulls cold air from the freezer and pushes it up into the refrridgerator compartment. If the fan is not working it is one of three things.. 1) there is so much frost in the fan area the fan blade is stopped and cannot push the cold air into the refridgerator compartment or the air channel is blocked. 2) there is no electricity going to the fan (usually tied to the door switch of the refirdgerator compartment, and 3) the motor is dead and will have to be replaced.

Solution to #1 - defrost but there is another problem in the "frost-free" part of the system which must be addressed or the frost will return and it will happen again in the future.

Solution #2 - check to see there is power to the fan. (most are 110VAC but some are 100VDC. Use a meter and check)

Solution #3 - If there is power, the motor is dead. Replace the motor. Be aware that AC and DC motors are different and replace per manufacture's specifications.

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