Question about Car Audio & Video
There could be a few possible reasons, if it is drums at the rear make sure that the e-brake is released and also make sure that you have a way of preventing your vehicle from rolling when you try to jack it up, it you have rotors than it could just be that they have seized and it will take some begging, praying, bloody knuckles and a breaker bar.
Posted on May 19, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Sep 30, 2012 | Cycling
Aug 10, 2012 | Chevrolet C1500 Cars & Trucks
Be sure you've got everything ready to go before you remove your old brake pads. Most important, be sure safety is at the front of your mind. You'll be taking the wheel off so be sure you have your car jacked up and resting securely on jackstands. Go ahead and break the lugsbefore you jack it up. It's much easier and safer with the wheel on the ground.
Never work on a car which is supported by a jack only! Unless you turn green and your clothes tear themselves to pieces when you get mad, there is no part of your person that can hold a car in the air if the jack slips. You may need to replace your brake discs depending on the amount of wear they have. You should inspect your brake discs regularly.
2. Remove the Wheel
Remove the Wheel
You broke the lugs while the car was still on the ground, so they should be pretty easy to remove. I like to remove them from the bottom up, leaving the top lug nut to be removed last. This keeps the wheel in one place while you remove the rest of them and makes it easier to safely catch the wheel once you remove the last nut. You can't replace brake pads with the wheel on!
If you remove the lugs and still can't get the wheel off, try this stuck wheel trick.
3. Unbolt the Caliper
On most cars, the next step is to remove the brake caliper so the brake pads will slide out through the top. On a few cars the pads will come out without removing the caliper, but not many. You'll see the brake caliper in the 12 o'clock position just above the lug bolts, riding atop that shiny brake disc.
On the back of the caliper you'll find a bolt on either side. It will either be a hex bolt of an Allen bolt. Remove these two bolts and put them aside.
Hold the caliper from the top and pull upward, wiggling it around to loosen it up. If it's stubborn, give it a few taps (taps, not Hank Aaron swings) upward to loosen it a bit. Pull it up and slightly away, being sure not to put any stress on the brake line (that black hose that's still connected).
If there is a place to safely set the caliper back there, do it. If not, you'll need to take your bungee cord and hang the caliper from something, the giant coil spring staring at you is a good spot. Don't let the caliper hang by the brake line, it can cause damage and lead to brake failure!
4. Remove the Old Brake Pads
Before you pull out the old brake pads, take a second to observe how everything is in installed. If there are little metal clips around the brake pads, note how they are in there so you can get it right when you put things back together. Better yet, take a digital picture of the whole assembly.
With the caliper out of the way, the brake pads should slide right out. I say should because in a new car they probably would. Since our cars are not always new, you may need to coax them out with a litte tap of the hammer to loosen them up. If your car has little metal tabs holding onto the brake pads, put them to the side becase you'll need them in a minute. Put the new pads in the slots with any metal clips you removed.
While you're here, it might be a good idea to inspect your brake discs.
Go ahead and slide the new pads into place now, making sure you don't forget any of the little retaining clips you removed earlier.
5. Compress the Brake Piston
As your brake pads wear out, the caliper adjusts itself so that you will have strong brakes throughout the life of the pads. If you look on the inside of the caliper you'll see a round piston coming out. This is what pushes on the brake pads from the back. Problem is, it's adjusted itself to match your worn out pads. Trying to get it over the new pads is like parking a Cadillac in New York City. You can do it, but the damage level will be high. Instead of destroying your new pads, you'll push the piston back to the starting point.
Take the c-clamp and place the end with the screw on it against the piston with the other end of the clamp around on the back of the caliper assembly. Now slowly tighten the clamp until the piston has moved far enough in that you can easily plop the caliper assembly over the new pads.
6. Re-Install the Brake Caliper
With the piston compressed, you should be able to easily slide the caliper assembly over the new pads. Once you have it on there, replace the bolts you removed and tighten them snugly. Press the brake pedal a few times to make sure you have solid brake pressure. The first pump or two will be soft as the piston finds its new starting point on the back of the pad.
Put your wheel back on, being sure to tighten all of the lug bolts. Now double-check your lug bolts just to be sure.
You're done! Feels good, right?
Jul 01, 2012 | 2004 Chevrolet Venture Passanger
Oct 14, 2011 | 1988 Ford F 250
Before raising the rear of your Honda, remove the dust cup from the center of the brake drums using a hammer and chisel. This will give you access to the spindle nut, which you can loosen using an axle nut socket. Then you can raise and remove the wheel/tire assembly ,or assemblies if you are replacing the bearings on both wheels.
If your Honda model is equipped with rear disc brakes, remove the brake disc retaining screws, the brake hose bracket from the steering knuckle and caliper bracket mounting bolts. Hang the caliper to the coil spring using wire. Do not let the caliper hang free or the brake hose may be damaged.
At this point, you will be able to remove the brake disc by hand. However, rust may have a firm grip on the disc. If this is the case, use a couple of 8-by-1.25 mm bolts and screw them evenly into the brake disc threaded holes. This will push the disc off the hub. Now you can finish removing the spindle nut and hub/wheel bearing assembly and install the new hub/wheel bearing assembly using a new spindle nut
If your Honda Civic comes equipped with rear brake drums, remove the center grease cup and loosen the axle spindle nut using an axle nut socket. After raising and removing the wheel/tire assembly, finish removing the axle nut and washer.
You might be able to remove the outer wheel bearing from the spindle using a screwdriver. If not, wiggle the brake drum as you pull on it to let the bearing fall off the spindle. However, the brake drum might be caught in place by the brake shoes. In this case, you can retract the brake shoes through the hole in the back of the backing plate.
Remove the rubber plug from the back of the backing plate. Then rotate the star wheel on the adjusting screw using a brake adjusting tool as you push the lever off the start wheel with a screwdriver. With the brake shoes off the brake drum, pull the brake drum off the wheel assembly. Then clean the brake assembly with brake parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free towel.
Now you can set the brake drum on a workbench or hard surface and remove the grease seal and inner wheel bearing. The inner and outer wheel-bearing races can be removed using a drift punch and hammer. Pack the new wheel bearings with high-temperature wheel-bearing grease using a wheel-bearing packer and use a new grease seal during installation. Also, before reinstalling the brake drum, apply a thick coat of wheel-bearing grease to the cavity inside the hub, but do not fill it completely.
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