Question about Kenmore Washing Machines

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Clothes are still quite wet after spin cycle, although the machine spins.

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  • ordure May 18, 2011

    Apparently you didn't receive the information that the machine is a Kenmore top loader (specifically a 110.15942400). I checked the items you noted - none of these are the problem. Can you suggest anything else?

  • ordure May 19, 2011

    It seems that the P.S. could be the problem. During the spin cycle the flow from the drain hose is very slow.

    The price of the part is about $100 - the question is whether replacement of this part is makes sense for a six year old machine, since it is probable that other parts are likely to be wearing out. Do you think it is time to replace the machine?

    P.S. There is a problem with the Sears parts web site - the link you provide doesn't load properly.

  • ordure May 20, 2011

    I opened the machine to inspect the Water Level switch (or P.S. switch). There was no clog in the plastic tube, and the other end, at the tube looked fairly clear. Just to be sure, after reassembling the machine, I ran a small wash with just detergent (no clothes). At the end of the cycle, there was still water in the tub - I ran the spin cycle again, and the water slowly came out the drain hose.

    The Water Level switch will cost me $100 - it would be easy enough to replace it, if this will solve the problem. I already checked the tube, which seemed fine, so I only would have to open the control panel. Are there any other parts that could cause problem (the pump, for example). I checked for motor coupling problems - the tub spins when I open the cover midway in the spin cycle. Since there is water remaining in the tub that has not drained when I ran the machine without clothes, it doesn't seem to be a spin cycle problem. I checked the drain hose by running water through it from a hose outlet - it flows nicely. There doesn't appear to be anything stuck in the drain inside the machine. The water-inlet valve is not leaking.

    Please let me know if you believe replacing the Water Level switch is the answer to my problem.

    Thank you.

  • ordure Jun 02, 2011

    After your last comment I discovered that, after I returned the machine to its place, there was a crimp in the hose. I rearranged the hose to remove the crimp, and the problem was solved. The problem returned yesterday. By running another spin cycle, I was able to remove most of the water.

    Today I found wet clothes at the end of the cycle. I attempted to run another spin cycle, but found the agitator was not turning. Does this mean that the motor coupling has failed? Is it possible that a failing motor coupling was the source of the problem all along?

  • ordure Jun 05, 2011

    I replaced the Motor Coupling, and the machine spins, but the clothes are still too wet. The drain hose seem to be in order. Could I have a transmission problem, and, if so, how do I test for it, and repair the problem?



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The problem is often the pressure switch that detects water level and decides when to stop the pump.
The pressure switch is located on control panel . It is a round shaped plastic part that is connected to wires and to a long thin rubber hose going inside the tub.

The P.S. is difficult to test, then before replacing it check the rest.

Check the drain hose height setting. If hose is not well placed you get water back inside the tub. Do a test with drain hose down in a bucket. Check the drain pump , disconnect hose from pump and remove blockage if any. The pump is accessed from the bottom of the appliance.

After checking all that, clean or replace the pressure switch.

Disconnect power before performing maintenance.



Here parts and diagrams.

Posted on May 19, 2011

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  • Ginko
    Ginko May 19, 2011


    The pressure switch is difficult to test. Testing is done reading Ohms with tub full and empty. The technician will rarely test it.

    Before replacing the pressure switch try cleaning the hose connected to the switch. There was also an old trick of blowing into the switch to make click a stuck switch (manufacturer says not to do this as you risk to break a good switch). Clean also the switch inlet. Most of the problems with pressure switch are given by detergent blocking the switch.

    Here SEARS website, enter the model number:

  • Ginko
    Ginko May 20, 2011

    Re: "I ran the spin cycle again, and the water slowly came out the drain hose."

    The water is supposed to be pumped out, not to come out slowly. Check for blockage and observe if the pump is working. I did not insist on the pump because it is usually easy to notice if pump is coming on.

    Also be sure that you have done the test with drain hose in a bucket. As suggested.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jun 02, 2011

    Motor coupling can cause no agitate and no spin but cannot be the cause for no drain. There may be more than one problem.Incorrect drain hose settings may have been the reason for drain problem, If the washer has been moved, there may be a wiring problem causing the agitate problem.

  • Ginko
    Ginko Jun 05, 2011

    The fact is that a transmission problem will not result in wet clothes. Check if machine is spinning. It it does not spin, then you may have a transmission problem. If the machine does spin, and the agitating problem was due to motor coupler, then the transmission is OK.

    If the machine does not agitate, but only partially turns, then it can be the transmission.

    The transmission is a part that does not fail quite often.

    Do a new test, with the drain hose down in a bucket. Check also that drain pump is starting and working. If clothes are not wet with drain hose down, then you still have a problem with drain hose settings.


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When the clothes are wet at the end of a cycle, check these: Motor coupler, Spin cycle, Siphoning and Water-inlet valve.

Motor coupler
To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:
If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.
If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.

Spin cycle
If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
Alternatively, there could be clothes caught between the inner and outer tubs. Read the "It spins but won't pump" section of the "It won't drain" section. Also, there could be other things that cause friction on the drive train. Seek the assistance of a qualified appliance repair technician.

If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve
Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

I hope you found the above helpful.


Posted on May 18, 2011

  • Walesarumi
    Walesarumi May 19, 2011


    This is what you need to consider; You need to compare the cost of repairing the unit with the cost of getting another unit. The price difference between the cost of purchasing another unit and repairing the unit should determine whether the unit is worth fixing or not.

    So if the cost of buying the part/fixing is close to the cost of getting another unit, then it's not worth repairing. This means it's time you replace the machine. You can also check it the other way round.

    Also, check repairing history if the machine. That is, how often has the machine been repaired in the part?

    The above should determine whether it's time to replace the machine or not.

    I hope you understand the above.....




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