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Need thermistor resistance values at temperature. Table 5.1 for model 61AR Marvel Refrigerator

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 531 Answers

SOURCE: refrig/freezer thermistor temp/resistance chart needed

by model# you can get it not all carry the same (temp)

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: Marvel wine refrigerator running,but not cooling

If your unit runs but does not cool, you have a "sealed system" issue. Either you are low on refrigerant which would be evident by frost build-up near the area where the freon first enters the evaporator plate. (lower middle, then travels left) or the compressor has lost the ability to develop the necessary differential pressure. You do not want to run the unit like that...you can **** in contaminants that will harm the compressor if you already haven't. You should contact a servicer to get it repaired. If you are still within the warranty period you should contact the dealer you got it from to initiate service.

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

freetek
  • 5568 Answers

SOURCE: my dometic 2652 refrigerator freezes everything

Your problem seems to be fairly common but you may find a solution on the website at the link below:
Dometic recall
I linked to that page because of the recall that affects your model and I suggest you read consider it before you worry any further about the problems you are having. You can link to their home page from the recall message.

Posted on Jan 03, 2010

Testimonial: "thank you for the information I linked to the home page as directed and found the thermistor resistance reading."

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: My 61ar marvel is freezing even with thermostat on

There are two main causes for this symtom...

Bad temperature control or low freon condition.

A low freon condition is caused by a leak and evidenced by heavy ice build-up on the left side of the evaporator plate and no to very little ice on the right side. This has to be repaired by fixing the leak and replacing the lost freon.

There are two different control systems used on the 61AR...before 2000 it was an electric-mechanical thermostat that had a sensing bulb exiting the back and routed to the top center of the evpaorator plate to sense plate temperaure. The part number for replacement is 42240590

The second control consists of three parts, a control board (SSAC Control), thermsitor and potentiometer. The most common failure is the thermsitor which senses temperature at the evaporator plate and reports it to the control board by varing it's resistance. You can buy a replacement kit that has all three parts or just the thermsitor from the factory by calling 800-223-3900. Write me a reply note if you need futher troubleshooting help. The thermsitor part number is 42244531 and comes with replacement instructions.

Posted on Jan 17, 2010

  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: Bad thermistor easy to replace?

It is not "easy" but it is not rocket science either. You will have to have the unit pulled out from where it is installed to have access to the back of the unit to replace the thermsitor correctly (it feeds to the back through a hole in the upper right (as seen from the front) and follows the refrigerant tubing to the mechanical area where it connects to the control board on terminal #s 4 and 5. The thermistor itself is connected the the back of the evaporator plate. Depending on what year (and how accurate the assembly was) it should be on the right wing. Sometimes it was connected to the upper middle section of the evaporator plate like it is on the 6CAR. The repair can be done with common hand tools by someone who is average to above average handy. When you order the part, it should come with instructions.

There is short-cut for those units that are hard to remove from where they are installed but should only be used as a last resort since it requires cutting and splicing the thermsitor leads which if not done with care can lead to accelerated failure of the new thermsitor and/or control box.

Drop me a line if you need further assitance. - Subdriver

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

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F05 fault after replacing brushes


F05 - NTC failure (SC/OC)
All appliances managed by the electronics measure the temperature using a thermistors. These thermistors changes resistance depending on the temperature. There are two kinds of thermistors, NTC and PTC.
NTC has a negative temperature coefficient which means that with increasing temperature the resistance decreasing (used in washing machine, dishwasher, dryer, refrigerator....etc).
PTC has a positive temperature coefficient which means that with increasing temperature the resistance increasing (used in oven, refrigerator for starting compressor...etc).
If you look in the table below, it is clear that the resistance value of 100 ohm means that is NTC faulty. So, I really do not understand how it is possible that the resistance increases with temperature?

Resistance of NTC depending on temperature
0 °C 35.9 kohm
30 °C 9.8 kohm
40 °C 6.6 kohm
50 °C 4.6 kohm
60 °C 3.2 kohm
70 °C 2.3 kohm
95 °C 1.1 kohm

Dado

Jul 16, 2015 | Whirlpool Washing Machines

Tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2


TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.

on Apr 11, 2009 | Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Compressor


Hi,

What information due you seek on this Marvel unit, What technical information are you wanting for this unit. This unit runs off a pod for the temp controls and if set wrong, it will not run. So what information are you seeking. The compressor is a 120V and can be wired directly to run. Please on you need of information so I can help you.

Thanks

Oct 15, 2013 | Marvel 61AR Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

Kenmore Elite stops early and flashes e1. How do we corect this Thanks Todd


The electronic control detected the thermistor is open. The wire harness connecting the thermistor and electronic control is broken or the connection is loose or the thermistor is indeed open. Measure the resistance of the thermistor then refer to the temperature and resistance table for the normal thermistor resistance values. Click on the link below for the detailed troubleshooting and replacement procedure.

Troubleshooting Error Code E1 on Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers

Feb 13, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I get an E1 code on a whirlpool duet dryer. What could the problem be.


The problem is the control thermistor being detected open by the electronic control. It's either the wire harness connecting the thermistor and electronic control is broken or the connection is loose or the thermistor is indeed open. Measure the resistance of the thermistor then refer to the temperature and resistance table for the normal thermistor resistance values. Click on the link below for the detailed troubleshooting procedure.

Troubleshooting Error Code E1 on Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers

Feb 04, 2011 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

E1 error


The fault code E1 means the electronic control detected the thermistor is open. It's either the wire harness connecting the thermistor and electronic control is broken or the connection is loose or the thermistor is indeed open. Measure the resistance of the thermistor then refer to the temperature and resistance table for the normal thermistor resistance values. Click on the link below for the detailed troubleshooting procedure.

Troubleshooting Error Code E1 on Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers

Dec 31, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8676 Dryer

1 Answer

A code E1 flashes the dryer shuts off and the clothes are still wet


The fault code E1 means the electronic control detected the thermistor is open. It's either the wire harness connecting the thermistor and electronic control is broken or the connection is loose or the thermistor is indeed open. Measure the resistance of the thermistor then refer to the temperature and resistance table for the normal thermistor resistance values.

Troubleshooting Error Code E1 on Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet Dryers

Oct 25, 2010 | Kenmore HE5

1 Answer

My Marvel 61 AR's stopped running. It is plugged


Most cases is bad thermostat, Marvel #800-428-6644

Feb 02, 2010 | Marvel 61AR Compact Refrigerator

1 Answer

My 61ar marvel is freezing even with thermostat on


There are two main causes for this symtom...

Bad temperature control or low freon condition.

A low freon condition is caused by a leak and evidenced by heavy ice build-up on the left side of the evaporator plate and no to very little ice on the right side. This has to be repaired by fixing the leak and replacing the lost freon.

There are two different control systems used on the 61AR...before 2000 it was an electric-mechanical thermostat that had a sensing bulb exiting the back and routed to the top center of the evpaorator plate to sense plate temperaure. The part number for replacement is 42240590

The second control consists of three parts, a control board (SSAC Control), thermsitor and potentiometer. The most common failure is the thermsitor which senses temperature at the evaporator plate and reports it to the control board by varing it's resistance. You can buy a replacement kit that has all three parts or just the thermsitor from the factory by calling 800-223-3900. Write me a reply note if you need futher troubleshooting help. The thermsitor part number is 42244531 and comes with replacement instructions.

Jan 15, 2010 | Marvel 61AR Compact Refrigerator

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