No sound output, regardless of channel selected, for 30-60 seconds
When switching on amp in the morning after overnight shutdown, only one relay click heard, and no sound. 30-60 seconds after this, another relay heard to click and sound then fine until turn on next day after switch off. Although i could just leave switched on permanently, worried that something is on it's way out that may go permanently in future.
My thoughts are that problem may be temperature related?? however this is not caused by ambient room temp, as this is same as always.
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Re: No sound output, regardless of channel selected, for...
The first click is the power relay connecting up the main transformer, the second click you normally hear is the speaker protection relay. When a fault condition is present in the amp, the protection circuit prevents the speakers connecting to the amp by NOT operating the relay. As the unit "settles" and works after the delay you noticed, what ever issue the amp is balancing itself it. It sounds like a leaky capacitor in transistor in the output stages. This can often be located with quick bursts of freeze coolant spray. It may also be a dry joint in the soldering about the driver and output transistors, always pays to have a visual look at it whilst you are in there. I also check power regulator stages for dry joints. The fault will be on one channel if it is signal path related, and both channels if power supply related. If you are familiar with electronic repairs, get in and have a look yourself. If not, get a NAD service guy to take a look at it for you. Good luck. Feel free to ask me any questions you may have about it.
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Did you try to switch the loudspeakers? Before changing anything always lover the volume and switch off the amplifier. Assuming you tested already different inputs, you can be sure no cable from signal source is out or defect. (or did you nit check that first?). When the amp is switched off, disconnect the speakers and switch left to right and right to the left output.. If the other speaker is quiet now, you are sure it is in the amp. Still his can be anything. You can check the connections between the pre and main amplifier on the back side. When you have an extra set of interlink cables, perhaps you can cross the in and output there too. Take care every time you change something, lower the voltage and switch off the amplifier. Sudden clicks when switching on or changing anything can damage the amp and or the speakers.
Perhaps when you checked this you can locate where the problem is? Speaker, speaker cable, power amp, pre amp, (only a part of the pre amp.
The fact you have output from the headphones is a good sign. It shows the main amp is working fine. However water has clearly got inside something and affected it. The best course of action is to trace back the wires from the headphone socket and see if there is a relay or anything that could get water in it. If you do find something, try applying warm air from a hairdryer. The alternative is to apply a soldering iron to the solder conections of the device. This should get rid of any water inside. If all else fails you might have to replace the relay. But I would try a spray of Servisol first. Just in case some dust has got inside or mineral salt from the water.
I do not have experience with this particular amp. Generic trouble shooting follows:
Might it be that you have headphones plugged in? (Unplug them, they turn off the speaker output) You are absolutely certain of the settings on your amp? (check them again) Are you certain you have an input? (AM, FM, CD, AUX, other) (Make sure the input is turned ON and the source is properly selected.
Is the output protected by a fuse or fuses? (look on the back panel for fuses or fuse holder)
Everything that is suppose to be plugged in IS plugged in ... all cables are intact? Did you check them for contunity? You can check contunity with a flashlight battery, the light of a flashlight and a paper clip.
Speaker selection switches are pressed as appropriate. Speakers are connected to the appropriate outputs and they are ON. Speakers are of proper rating - and resistance? 4 ohm - 8 ohm - 16 ohm??? Any controls on the speaker are set at a neutral setting?
I'm sorry your device is not functioning as you think it should. These things are designed to work and generally, they are pretty good at it. Sometimes, they just break (stop functioning) It may be that you will have to take it back from where you got it for repair or adjustment. But I am hoping you have the headphones plugged in.
The unit is probably in protect mode and the main amp section is shutdown. Check the output transistors for a shorted condition. That is the most common failure point. I will check for the service manual in the meantime to try to get you more specific details.
Your audio output transistors are shorted and your unit is staying in "protect " mode to protect your speakers from 40 to 60 volts that is being sent at them from the shorted outputs. If you can use a meter you won't need the schematic MOST likely because the outputs are USUALLY the only parts that short out. The output transistors( or chip ) are mounted to the large, finned heatsink. The #'s on the transistors start with "2SA-" and "2SC-" followed by numbers. There are two output transistors per channel. If your unit uses an IC for audio output then the # on the IC will be "STK-" followed by numbers. These parts are available from tritronicsinc.com. Good Luck!
It seems you are implying that your receiver itself has got an amp though small. You use another amp to boost your power, is that right?
It will definitely damage both your receiver and amp, just waiting which one to go first if you do what you are saying. In the first place how do you connect your receiver to the second amp? it has a line out i suppose? and for now your speakers are only connected to the booster amp? So it is only a matter of selecting where your speakers get connected when you wanted. DO NOT, in any case splice your speaker wire to attach your receiver speaker to the output of your booster where your speakers are connected.
What you can do is just make a switch selecting which source you will use for your speakers. You just need a simple toggle switch 2poles/double throw. 1pole for each channel (R/L) connect your center pole to speaker, the other selectable 2poles to the output of booster, the other pole to the receiver. (each channel) that is your safest. If you a a techie you can actually make a power driven relay switch to select the speakers where to get connected but maybe you can not do that on your own. it has to be someone with knowhow, simple design though. the same principle, your meccanilca 2pole/double throw switch will be replaced by the same specs but relay. elecically driven whrn you turn on/off your booster.
Hi There DEKCAT
Its very unusual for both channels to blow......
I suspect that there is a blown power fuse inside the case......
There are fuses sometime located on the outside rear of the case and these can be easily checked to determine if they are blown..If you find one is blown please replace with the corrrect rated fuse,..... its current rating wil be on a small label on the case outside rear. like 1.0amp, or 1.5amp etc...
If you need to go inside the case please ensure the power plug is removed from the wall socket first.
You will find small glass fuses in the DC power supply feeds and probably one of these has blown, once again replace with the correct rated fuse.
Im not sure if your amplifier is a FET type or a large 32-40 pin IC type as if these are blown you will need a service person to do the replacement...
Please note there is a small relay that clicks 20seconds after turn on at the switch....if this click is not happening then there is problems with the timer circuit or the relay itself...
This relay controls the output to the speakers and as such stops all the sound output if its not working...so the first thing is to check all fuses, if they are OK then check the Relay operations....