No sound output, regardless of channel selected, for 30-60 seconds

The ASD relay supplies battery voltage (12+ volts) to the fuel injectors and ignition coil(s). With certain emissions packages it also supplies 12-volts to the oxygen sensor heating elements. The Fuel Pump Relay is a separate relay controlled by the ASD relay input to the PCM. Fuse #12 (10amp) provides 12 volts to the coil side of both the relays and the ignition switch. Fuse #6 (30 amps) supplies 12 volts to the output side of the relay. Fuse #16 (15 amp) from the relay output to the Oxygen Sensors and Fuse #26 (15 amp) relay output to the PCM. Fuse #24 (20 amp) is Fuel pump relay output to fuel pump. Fuse #19 (10 amp) supplies 12 volts direct to the PCM.
look for burned or melted wires in the offending circuit.
sounds like you wiggled a wire while installing new relay.

Check your input or output cables might be dirty I had the same problem
and 1 of my output wire was dirty so i sprayed tha electric cleaner and its all good now
Aloha

The fact you have output from the headphones is a good sign. It shows the main amp is working fine. However water has clearly got inside something and affected it. The best course of action is to trace back the wires from the headphone socket and see if there is a relay or anything that could get water in it. If you do find something, try applying warm air from a hairdryer. The alternative is to apply a soldering iron to the solder conections of the device. This should get rid of any water inside. If all else fails you might have to replace the relay. But I would try a spray of Servisol first. Just in case some dust has got inside or mineral salt from the water.

Wharfedale pro bx1360sd

I have had problems with this stereo mixer amplifier which had the symptoms of no sound output from either channel .

I opened up the unit and discovered that the amplifier was correctly amplifying my input signal up to a relay which switches the output through to the speakers .

This relay did not activate at all.

When the power switch is turned ON you should hear a click approximately 2 seconds later , if no click then there is a problem with the circuitry associated with this relay .

I traced out all the connections associated with this relay and made a circuit diagram .

The relay is a 24v relay and I will explain the way that I can see that this section of the amplifier works.

It has been designed to ;

1. Create a slow start delay ( 2 seconds ) when the power is turned ON.

This it needed because otherwise there is a current surge and sparks from the relay turning on immediately.

1. Thermal cutout mounted on heatsink . If the ventilation fan fails the heatsink and transistors may get too hot and the cutout will operate and cut power to the relay by going open circuit.
2. Speaker protection from blown output transistors. There are 2 transistors q802 and q803 both 2sc1815. They are connected together emitter to emitter and collector to collector to form a differential Op amplifier I.C. If there is a blown output transistor then DC voltage will be detected by q802 and q803 and the relay will be switched OFF to protect the speakers .

Q804 turns On Q805 which turns On Q806 to activate the relay .

Voltages on transistors

Q802 and Q803 2sc1815

Base 0V Collector 12.9V Emitter 0V

Q804 2sa1015

Base 12.9V Collector 0V Emitter 15.1V

Q805 2sc1815 (driver for Q806)

Base 0V Collector 7.2V Emitter 0V

Q806 2sc1815

Base 0V at Turn ON then after 2 secs increases to 0.7V

Collector 2.8V ( transistor is activated as a switch Turned Fully ON ( saturated) to turn on the Load which is the relay .

Emitter 0V

I have replaced the following transistors to fix my amplifier q805 2sc1815 and q806 2sc1815 .If you are going to use a different type of transistor it may not work and also the lead connections of a 2sc1815 for the collector and emitter are different to those such as on a 2n2222( transposed).

Hi Paul;
There are one or more transistors failed in the output circuit
I would have tech look at the amp and see what the power supply is doing without spkrs connected

First make sure the speaker A/B switch is on.
If still no sound, dissconect ALL speakers from the rear of amp.
Now turn on amp and listen for the relays to click in.
One relay will click when you press power. A couple of seconds later, the speaker relay will click in.
If it does, you could have blown outputs, bad speaker wiring, faulty speakers.
If it does not, the speaker relay may be faulty.
Hope this helps.

(1)When the unit is switched on the relay clicks in,but no sign of life, and then five seconds later the second relay clicks on/off don't know which. This symptom is DC outputted to speaker terminals. Check any DC at power amp stage output.(2)Must have blown up.
Positive. If Caps blew, your amp shutted itself down within 5 seconds due to + & - power supply creating an unbalanced +B & - B voltage not allowing your amp to turn on.

I had the same problem. Left the unit on overnight, next morning the unit was working fine. Also if you turn the unit off and back on it can take up to a hour for the system to reboot.

It seems you are implying that your receiver itself has got an amp though small. You use another amp to boost your power, is that right?

It will definitely damage both your receiver and amp, just waiting which one to go first if you do what you are saying. In the first place how do you connect your receiver to the second amp? it has a line out i suppose? and for now your speakers are only connected to the booster amp? So it is only a matter of selecting where your speakers get connected when you wanted. DO NOT, in any case splice your speaker wire to attach your receiver speaker to the output of your booster where your speakers are connected.

What you can do is just make a switch selecting which source you will use for your speakers. You just need a simple toggle switch 2poles/double throw. 1pole for each channel (R/L) connect your center pole to speaker, the other selectable 2poles to the output of booster, the other pole to the receiver. (each channel) that is your safest. If you a a techie you can actually make a power driven relay switch to select the speakers where to get connected but maybe you can not do that on your own. it has to be someone with knowhow, simple design though. the same principle, your meccanilca 2pole/double throw switch will be replaced by the same specs but relay. elecically driven whrn you turn on/off your booster.

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Well, the nice thing about the newer amps is that the actual amp circuitry is all contained in a module and you don't have to do much troubleshooting. Just replace the module for that pair of channels. Bad news of course is the modules can be pricey. Should say right on it the part number, order it from mcminone.com or whoever, solder it in, use new conductive grease (many times I think these modules fail because the grease gets old, the module overheats and toasts) and you should be fixya'd