I have a Necchi model 3205 in December 2010 and For no reason the upper tension knob pop off and all the inner springs and the washers like things went accross the floor I would like to know the name off a repair man in Newfoundland (somewhere on the west coast if possible) This Machine is still under warrenty.

You can get Necchi instruction manual from Necchi website: http://www.sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Manuals/Necchi_Sewing_Machines.htm". Makesure the needle is in the machine correctly- all the way up into the needlebar, make sure that it is threaded correctly, etc. If this all checks out ok,take the bobbin case out of the machine. There are two ears on either side ofthe bobbin case- turn the left one to the left and the right one to the right.Remove the silver ring, and inspect the piece of metal that the ring came off of(looks like a circle with the top cut off). You have to locate the hook whichis the piece that looks like a half moon inside the big round metal piece.Locate the tip of it, turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is in thelowest position, at this point the tip of the hook should be flush with top ofthe left side of the cut off circle. Checkwhether underneath thread is looping on the fabric. If so then you've mis-threadedthe top, probably haven't raised the presser foot when threading so you can getthe upper thread into the tension. You need to thread the upper part with thepresser foot up. (You can put it down to thread the needle.)

Not picking up thread can be several issues, like bobbin is miswound, bobbincase isn't snapped in properly, you're using the wrong type bobbin, machine isout of time, needle is bent or burred, machine is dirty and in need of dustbunny eviction and a little oil but most of the time the issue is once againmisthreading: sewing machine needles have a front and a back and they have tobe placed in the needle holder correctly. In that case your manual is needed, take all the thread offthe machine (yes, spool off the spool pin, bobbin out of the bobbin case), pullthe needle plate and clean your machine thoroughly, using brush and vacuum (notcompressed air) and oiling per the instruction manual. Put it all backtogether, putting in a 80/12 needle, correctly oriented. Hang on to theneedle thread when you fetch up the bobbin thread.

Each and every seam you start is going to be done this way:
1) Pull the tail of the top and bobbin thread behind the presser foot
2) Put the work under the needle and use the hand wheel to lower the needleinto the work
3) Drop the presser foot
4) Holding the thread tails behind the foot, take a couple of stitches.
5) Drop the thread tails and sew normally. Hope this will help you. Good Luck.

Hi. Start by taking everything back off. There should be the knob, a spring, two matching discs and one disc that is smaller than the other two. The two matching discs should go on first and should mirror one another with the flaring edges both facing out from where the discs touch. Then goes the smaller disc, then the spring with the larger end on the discs. Screw on the knob with the numbers facing out, all the way down till it stops and that should be the maximum setting. Back it off all the way to where the tension is indicated as 3 for your starting point. By the way, do all of that with the foot lowered. Raising the foot should separate the tension discs, which makes it possible to pull your work piece out from under the sewing area without breaking the thread.

I found this thread (no pun intended):

http://www.fixya.com/support/t2902978-need_replace_upper_tension_dial

If it helped, be sure to acknowledge the thread's author (I just searched for it ;) ).

That spring thing goes where the pedal screws into the side. When 'facing' the dyson in the front, it's on the left side. The spring's circle part and short stem section goes into a divot area on the pedal. The other end is tensioned (braced) against some housing piece, but once you insert the spring part in the pedal end part, you should be able to figure it out from there.
This darned spring makes the pedal 'tensioned' to where it pops back up vs. flopping nonsensically.

You could go on line and have the parts send to you. Here a web site that will help you buy the parts.

http://www.sewingstyle.com/Necchi-Sewing-Belts.html Hope that this will help you.

If the brush roller stalls when it comes into contact withthe carpet, it might be that the tensioner spring has broken off. This is adesign flaw in the Eureka4870. The symptoms are: 1) brush spins until it contacts the carpet then itstalls, 2) the brush lever for setting floor/carpet is loose and lacks a firmsetting, 3) vacuum no longer has the feel of being self-propelled on carpet. Itis not very easy to repair and I don't know if a replacement tensioner iscommercially available. To fix it yourself:

1. Remove the base plate by the 3 Phillips screws.
2. Remove the brush roller and belt.
3. Remove the black accordion hose connecting the motor housing to the clear vertical riser on the side of the vacuum. Unscrew it from the riser. Then disconnect the accordion hose from its black connector that screwed into the riser. Then unscrew the Torx T-20 screw that holds the bottom of the hose into the motor base. Then draw the accordion hose out through the underside of the vacuum.
4. From the underside, remove the 3 Torx T-20 screws that hold the red top cover in place. They are located between the brush roller and the two small height adjustment wheels. The middle screw holds the height adjustment knob. The other two straddle the height adjustment knob.
5. Turn the vacuum upright and remove the red plastic cover. This is the most difficult step. Use a flat screwdriver to pry it loose in the hole where the accordion hose fed through. On the other side, where the foot operated upright release lever is, you will have to pry the red cover off. I broke the red plastic loop from here. But it still reseats OK.
6. Still upright, remove the belt tensioner by the 5 Torx T-20 screws, including the one connecting to the slotted arm (it has a wide cylinder under the head). Before removing the piece, note that there appears to be another mounting hole like the four standard mounts. This is the anchor for the spring which applies tension to the tensioner. The other anchor point for the spring has probably broken off, and the spring might be dangling loosely or even missing.
7. Remove the tensioner unit. Locate the other anchor point, which is probably a broken tab with a hole as the anchor point, broken through from the high tension of the spring. This is the aformentioned design flaw.
8. Drill a new hole near the broken tab. I drilled two, at right angles to each other. Drill small holes so as to not weaken the remaining plastic. I drilled ~1 mm. Holes should be between the two anchor points so as to not make the spring stretch longer than the original. Plus, a longer anchor point will interfere with the butting of the plastic edge when in the stretched position. If the spring is already lost then use a replacement that is ~1 inch long (total length) with hooks at each end.
9. Reassemble the tensioner device. Check the operation of the tensioner lever to ensure smooth, firm locking.
10. Reassemble the red plastic cover (3 screws including the height adjustment knob).
11. Reassemble the accordion hose, brush roller, belt, and base plate.

It now works as good as it every did. I will next be seeking a replacement tensioner device from Eureka or a shop, since Isuspect this modification may eventually weaken and break. The plastic springanchor points are definitely a poor design by Eureka.

sure would like to know that answer myself does anyone know how to put the spring back i am about to lose my ever loving mind

first remove bottom plate then remove the roller yea I know its a pain the front nozzle will come off if you pop it up with a screwdriver pull the suction hose it will come off. the knob is the worst there are two points were it clips on firmly pry the inside to pop it loose then the outside and yes I know you think its going to break I have done a couple hundred not one has broken on me. Remove the back U shaped duct. There are three screws in the clutch cover #15 torx screwdriver the back screw is accessed threw a hole in the housing. the clutch will come out with a firm tug. Remove the 2 screws #10 torx and pop the cover there is 2 parts that might come out a clutch pad and a metal ring / gear. If i were you i would replace both belts and yes I know Dyson says Its not possible to replace but you can just turn the clutch around remove the C clip and every thing will fall out a spring 2 bearings a washer 3 bb type bearings and a few rings. Its not that hard just reassable the same way. once you do one you can do 100 just take your time and let me know if you have trouble

That justs lies on the inner handle whenb you put the spring back. There should be two holds where each end of the spring sits in.

Wow an old but a goody.Electrolux rewinds of this age are like land mines. Be very cautious.
The G is similar to its cousin the model 89. In the 89 a service tech would remove the housing cover with the cord spool held secure and stationary stationary and the housing laying flat. Sometimes a clothes pin or small clamp on the outside of the cord housing.....
Once inside there would be a spool with the cord would on and that spool had both a flat metal spring half visible below the side of the spool and and an open center bearing race. Only half the spring would be exposed from above and a special clamp tool was used to reach in and clamp the spring before any parts were disturbed. You might get away with a set of long skinny needle nose pliers but you must not kink the spring by doing so. Then if removing the spool, you would invert the rewind over an ice cream pail to drop the loose bearings , or remove them with a magnetic screwdriver tip.
If your spring is damaged you will get one through Aerus Electrolux , originally Electrrolux US.
If your cord has given way and you are exceptionally careful, without removing the spool you can desolder the terminals on the bakelite spool inside, drill out the rivets holding the contact ring and shorten the cord . this is far easier than attempting to install a new cord .The next step would be to resolder the cord and re rivet the spool contact ring with a pop riveter and washers to secure the tabs cut out in the ring.
If you remove the entire cord you will have to clamp the spring so a snot to lose its unwound tension. This is VERY tricky. Best of luck . please post back to advise what happens.If you impatient, don't even consider this one, just find another G for parts and steal the rewind