The air handler is in the attic or in a closet right? most likely the drain switch mentioned is in a pan located underneath the air handler, the switch is actuated when the condensation drain tube is clogged, ( when it cannot drain the water out of the pan), the float switch is actuated and the unit shuts off to prevent any more condensation, thus preventing overflow into your house/apt. the drain line can be sucked out by using a simple wet/dry vacuum of any kind from the end of the drain line ( usually a 3/4 inch PVC pipe located somewhere outside ).
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If you mean that your OUTDOOR AIR CONDITIONER FAN MOTOR is blowing AND no air is coming out of the vents within your house, it clearly indicates to me that 1 of 2 things are wrong.
Either (1) your INDOOR AIR HANDLER is NOT running or (2) the INDOOR AIR HANDLER is running but your PLENUM has come apart.
If your INDOOR AIR HANDLER UNIT is NOT running, it could simply be the circuit breaker is OFF/TRIPPED and simply needs to be turned OFF; then turned ON. If that does not FIX your problem, then it is most likely your 5 micro-farad run capacitor for your indoor fan motor needs to be replaced. It will prevent your indoor fan motor from energizing. Worst case scenario would be your INDOOR FAN MOTOR has windings burnt and needs to be replaced. If your indoor air handling unit is equipped with a CONDENSATE VALVE CUT-OFF SWITCH, check to see if your drain pan is filled, thus energizing the switch. If the CONDENSATE VALVE CUT-OFF SWITCH is ENERGIZED, it will prevent the AIR HANDLER FROM energizing. That is the design and the reason for this valve.
The thermostat is the device that determines when the A/C unit starts up. It will require a 24v source (transformer most likely in the air handler) to provide power for the control. If the 24V is present, and the t-stat is calling for cooling, then there is probably a safety device preventing it from starting.
One such common safety device is a water level or "float" switch that detects water level in the pan under the air handler. These are most often found in homes that have the air handler in the attic space. Normally, these pans a dry or have a a few dropsof watrer in them. Condensate is created when warm, humid air is passed over a cold coil. It is collected and routed outside. If there is a problem getting the condensate down the drain pipe in the air handler, it will drip out of it onto the attic floor. This is why a shallow pan is installed under the air handler. The pan will collect the condensate and is piped outside and down to the ground. If the pipe has become clogged - preventing draining - the water would overflow the pan and ruin the ceiling in the space directly below. The float switch prevents the signal from the thermostat from turning on until the water has drained to a safe level.
Check the pan - if it is empty, the switch may have been distrubed and actuated - even though there is no water in the pan. Operated the switch to make sure it can move freely. There may be other safety devices inline like the float switch. You'll need to follow the circuit and find where it is being interrupted in order to make the repair / correction.
Like have a clogged drain and the float switch is tripped. Check the drain line near the indoor unit for a piece with two wires. Remove switch and check for water or look in emergency pan under unit for water. DO NOT LEAVE SWITCH OUT, must vacuum clog free or blow out with compressed air.
Hello, this usually indicates a clogged condensate line or cracked condensate pan. Try using a wet/dry by attaching one end of it to the otlet of the comdensate line, the suction pressure should dislodge the clog. If the line appears clean the the pan is cracked and will require a technician to come out and fix it.
Is the inside unit running, if yes is the contactor pulled in outside. If no try locating float switch on emergency drain pan ( could have a clogged emergency pan drain line)
Any further information you could provide could be useful in diagnosing your problem
Refrigerant Standing Pressure
Power at Disconnects for A/C units and if so whats the voltage
Breakers in Electrical Breaker Box (Any Tripped or in the off Position)
Water present in emergency pan underneath Air Handler
What pieces of the A/C Equipment or running if any ( Air Handler, Condenser Fan Motor, Compressor)
The A coil (Evaporator) is dirty and needs cleaned by a professional. Dirt has clogged the fins in the coil and is blocking most of the airflow through the coil so the air has to go around the coil picking up the water as it does and sending it everywhere.
Has a service tech remove and clean your coil and reinstall it and your problem will be solved.
The condensate drain line/pan is clogged causing the condensation to overflow the pan.
The easy way to fix that is attatch a powerfull wet/dry shop vac to the end of the drain line and such out whatever is causiing the clog. Also take off the panel to the evaporator coil and clean out the pan with the shop vac.
To double check that the clog has been removed, pour a gallon or two of water into the pan and ensure that it is draining properly.
If your air handler is up in the atic - you will fins the drain pan up there under the air handler and you will need to clean out the water drains that are probably clogged..
Also find the drain exit pipe out side and duct tape a shop vac to it and suk out the dirt and debris..
Once a year - bleach water should be put into the drain pipes to avoid clogging..