Question about GE Profile Harmony DPGT750EC Electric Dryer

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Blower motor does not work, no heat.

I took it all apart, checked for blockages, checked all continuity - all good. Drum turns, no air. Blower motor does not even begin to turn.

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If you check for voltage at the blower motor and have zero volts ,change the Control board. If volts are present then change the blower motor. Please Rate This !

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

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Heat is blowing out but the drum is not spining


You broughtke the belt of drum wont turn you might take the dryer apart to make sure the idler pulley is spinning free also. They sometimes get tight and burn the belt up.

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Drum turns..no heat


I would check inside and see the blower itself it may have lint or debris obstructing it, see if u can turn it by hand another thing to check is for full 220 at the outlet and terminal cuz if u only get 110 u will be able to run motor but have no heat

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My dryer does not blow hot and will not shut off and no digital reading will display.


Hello Bryan;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

So, here are the probable causes:

1.) The blower wheel draws air through the dryer and pushes the air out the vent. If the dryer won't stop, the blower wheel may be plugged up or not be spinning properly, which reduces the air flow. Check to see if the blower wheel is securely fastened to the drive motor shaft. Check the blower hot air discharge manifold for blockage.

2a.) If the dryer won't stop, the gas valve solenoid coils might be defective. Over time these coils will fail, causing the burner to run intermittently. If the dryer is not heating properly it may not stop. Replace the coils as a set.

2.b) The heating element warms the air before the air enters the dryer drum. If the dryer won't stop, it may be because the heating element isn't working - which greatly increases the drying time. Check the heating element for continuity.

3.) Dryer sheets and fabric softener can leave a residue on the lint filter, reducing the air flow. If the dryer won't stop, check to be sure air can flow freely, clean the filter as needed.

4.) Although not as common, if the dryer won't stop it may be because the moisture sensor is either defective or shorted

5.) If the dryer won't stop, check the high limit thermostat. If defective, the high limit thermostat can turn off the heat prematurely, lengthening the time it takes to dry a full load. This is not common.

6.) The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer won't stop, it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat turning off the heat too early. This is not common.

7.) The thermistor senses the temperature of the air in the dryer and cycles the heat on and off. If the dryer won't stop, the thermistor may be defective. This is not common.

Nov 16, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have a dle2532w and everything seems to be working fine but there is no heat, I have checked my breakers and everything is fine. I took it apart and checked the element and the thermostat and the thermal...


You need to replace the operating thermostat along with the thermal fuse. This thermostat controls temperature in the drum and if it fails, it will just put out heat constantly without regard to temperature. Be sure to check the exhaust vent in the house walls to make sure they're cleaned. Good luck

Jun 20, 2011 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

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MY KENMORE DRYER IN NOT HEATING.. NO HOT AIR COMMING


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. Repair photos and more here

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2 Answers

Dryer not heating


usually when the dryer is not heating is because the heating element has break. you can purchase a heating element kit with insulators at a parts appliance store.requires taking the dryer apart and removing the drum. the heating element is behind the drum. if your handy you should have no problem. good luck!

Jul 25, 2010 | Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

1 Answer

No heat drum turns no heat blower works no heat


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE

Feb 01, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

My dry blow out cool air model ler4600pq


It could be the heating element, a safety limit, a control problem, or an electrical problem. A heating coil is used to warm the clothes as they get tossed gently inside the drum. A blower mounted on the motor pulls air through the heating element into the drum and out the exhaust. The element gets old and briitle with use and eventually needs replacement. That is what you check first. On gas dryers vibration and age will cause the igniter to crumble and fail. If it turns out the element is fine then one of the safety's might be blown. These safety's are set to a certain temperature
for the dryer to operate safely. The drum temp control for cotton is 160f. A limit on the heater housing is 250f. If it fails another smaller limit is mounted nearby that blows at 300f. If that temp exceeds 350f a duct fuse mounted on the blower housing opens and kills most dryers. On gas dryers the duct fuse will kill the gas assembly but the dryer will still run. If all of those safetys are good the timer could be the problem. The timer has a terminal on it that runs down to the heating element. If you suspect it is bad you can check it with a meter. That leg of the timer should have continuity with other terminals on the timer at different spots on the timer. Turning the timer and checking for continuity will give a clue. If you cannot get continuity with any other terminal on the timer at any position on the dial then you have a burned contact in the timer. If that turns out to be good, you would need to inspect the electrical outlet for proper power to the machine. On American models the motor runs on 120 volts but the heating element must have 240 volts. If you have more questions just post a comment. Good luck on repairing your machine. I have some repair photos: HERE
Remove and clean the venting to outside then get the rear cover off and check for continuity to the heater element and safetys.

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2 Answers

Maytag Bravos dryer heats but does not blow air out the vent.


Since you did not provide a model number I picked a similar model for reference using this model number: MDE5721TQO (there are at least 40 different model numbers but the blowers are all the same) You blower is driven directly by the motor so unless the blower itself has come apart or the drive spline in the blower has failed in some way you more than likely have a major build up of lint in your dryer.

You can look here to see the blower location http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5133558&diagram_id=1301439#d1301439

You can turn the motor by hand and see if the blower is turning by losening the housing screws for the blower while using a flashlight. If the blower is turning then you need to find out where the blockage of lint has built up and remove it. I would startt around the lint filter. NOTE The drum will also turn.if you rotate the motor pulley. Just make sure the unit is unplugged while you attempt this. If you do locate the blockage I have found that a well bent into a U shaped METAL coat hanger works well. Do NOT poke any sharp objects into the air ducting areas of your dryer while trying to find any blockages and avoid the heating element area with anything metal or sharp. A vacuum crevice tool works great during this task. Good luck and I do hope you are able to locate the problem based on the information here.

Jan 11, 2010 | Maytag Bravos 7.0 Cu. Ft. Electric Dryer

3 Answers

Start button humms when pushed won't start dryer


Mike, I know this is NOT what you want to hear, but the drive motor is failing. No, let me be specific... the motor BEARINGS have failed. There are 2 bearings on your motor, one on either side. They are permanently lubricated and not serviceable. Unfortunately, they can not be replaced without replacing the whole motor. Sorry. Care to know how it works? There's one motor that performs 2 functions (hence the 2 shafts, hence the 2 bearings). One function is to turn the drum, the other is to power the blower assembly for air circulation. From my experience w/ Kenmore (which is almost always built by Whirlpool, btw) I'd almost bet that you have noticed that it takes a long time to dry the clothes, right? Like you put it on timed dry and when the dryer buzzes, you come in to find the clothes still damp and hot? Then you re-set the dryer for another 30 minutes or so? Almost always this is the case. The blower is designed to expel warm, moist air continually. When the dryer vent (to the outside) gets blocked, this air has no place to go. The heat inside the cabinet increases because of the blockage and heat stresses affect the interior components. One of the components especially vulnerable to this heat is the motor bearings. When they over heat, the "permanent" seal expands and blows out. This allows the bearings' lubrication to leak out. When the dryer cools down in between uses, the bearings contract thereby pulling in lint and dust. This cycle continues for a long time. As the bearings continue to deteriorate, the motor must work harder to overcome the "grip" the bearings have on the shaft. This continues until the motor can no longer overcome the resistance (much like the **** during the French Occupation) and all you hear now is the low pitch sound of a motor in its' death throws. My advice? Well? The motor itself costs around $140.00. You'll also need to replace the blower which will be another ~$30.00. So for about $170.00 in parts, you could do this. But I gotta tell you, it's one of the most difficult jobs on a dryer that there is to do. I've done around 500 of them and even knowing what to do it takes me about an hour and 15 minutes (the ENTIRE dryer must be disassembled, repaired and rebuilt). If you call a repair tech to come do the job, the repair cost would be near $300 if not more. So this is your call. If you decide to do the repair, write back with the entire model number (open the dryer door, it's on a sticker on the panel [not the door] and it'll start like 110.*********) and I'll get you part numbers and walk you through the entire procedure. Deal? Cool. Hope this helps. SG

Mar 23, 2009 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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