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I own a legacy LMR1344 flip down tv that got some of the wires cut,thing is i also don't remember where they go connected tp.

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Posted on Sep 22, 2008

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Tv come on after a hour cut off and don't come back on

Common issue on this set is it develops bad solder connections at and right around the high voltage transformer--also called the Flyback.


Jun 13, 2012 | RCA R52WM24 52" HDTV Projection Television

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One of are fans are out in the samsung tv and it

To check which fan it is ued have to remove the bottom back panel,unplug set,remove all screws on panel ,4 of the screws will take off a vented door ,it should have a symbol on it that looks like a "T" ,but its not a "T" directly behind the symbol theres a little blue switch, it flips up or down,the "T" shaped plasticon the inside of that door is what actually flips the switch when the door/panel is in place with the 4 screws.With the back part of the set removed hold the switch up or down and have someone turn the set on,theres a small fan that u can see and theres a fan on the back side of the light,don't touch anything else while set is on,don't be sweaty or wet and only keep the set on to determine which fan is out,cut set off but continue to hold switch until everything shuts off ,a minute or so later.,you can also put like a wire tie or anything to hold the switch for you which is much safer,this is for a so only do this at your on risk,I never recommend this to do yourself but a person can do some things like this.goodluck.
I know where and probably have a fan for that set to ship.

May 28, 2010 | Samsung HL-P5063W 50" Rear Projection HDTV

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Mitsubishi WS-55613 Blinking green light. I have repaired 4 1000uF capacitors on the DM board, made sure the board is seated properly, but still the non stop blinking green light. So now I am off...


Thanks for using FixYa. The green LED on the front panel of the TV that normally blinks when turned on after a power failure or when unplugged: the green light is supposed to flash for about 1 minute while both microprocessors boot up: If it won't stop blinking it means that they aren't communicating with each other.

This issue is due to 1000uF/16 volt power supply capacitors in the "DM module" (one of the two onboard microprocessors). These capacitors are apparently small as compared to load they get & due to this they will eventually fail (usually after about 3 years). Or else they fail when there are voltage fluctuations in the circuit above 16 volts. It is recommended to install either 1000uF/25 volt or 1000uF/35 volt capacitors as replacements, so that they will be more than ample to handle any voltage spikes that will occur. You’ll need to take the back off the TV apart in order to remove the faulty DM module. You’ll need to desolder the old capacitors on DM board and install. Also check the grounding straps which are essential to the proper functioning of the DM module.

After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105 degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up normally. But when I had to unplug the set too fully re assemble it, it came back.

The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each thought that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot process over again. You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser Elect) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to disassemble the whole thing again.) On the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”. It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an inch from the connector. Solder four 12 inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch (one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange across from orange) See the diagram below. The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.


Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV. You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you can do it however you like)

Here is how to use it- From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60 secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so the wires are connecting. Hit the power button. The TV should turn on- you’re done! Yeah!

From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out, state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the TV, wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on normally… Again you are done…

Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking LED) this means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get it to work. If you tried turning on the TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure above.

Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the repair manual. This is nice to have because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the connector placements

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Dec 19, 2009 | Televison & Video

2 Answers

Broken coax connection on back of unit

If you are comfortable doing some small repair work, you might be able to fix this with stuff you have laying around.

All you need is:
1 - 8" piece of coaxial cable with male connector on one end
1 - set of RCA cables (Red/White/Yellow)
1 - coaxial coupler
2 - small wire nuts

electrical tape

Take the back housing off of your TV. You may have to unscrew the small nut holding the threaded connector to the TV. This threaded connector should connect to the motherboard with a male RCA prong that should be soldered to the component on the motherboard. You will need to carefully cut
& remove the old soldering & wiggle the connector off. This is the hardest part, but it WILL come off with a little trying.

Now get your coax cable and strip off about 2" of the black outside housing ONLY. Your solid copper` interior cable should be protected by a small plastic coating which is covered in braided wire. You'll need to be careful not to cut the braiding off. Untangle the braiding down to where your cut stops and try and get it all on one side of the cable so you can twist it all together and make a nice wire. Now strip about an inch off of your interior plastic sheathing to reveal the small solid copper wire on the very inside.

Get your RCA cable and cut about 6" off of the one yellow side. Follow the same process above to get a braided sheathing wire and a solid copper wire. Attach this yellow wire to the coaxial cable by twisting the two braided wires together and the two solid copper wires together. Use your wire nuts & electrical tape to secure your connections making sure none of the wires can touch each other.

Connect the yellow cable's male prong into the component on the motherboard and attach your coaxial coupler to the male end of your coaxial cable. If you saved the small nut from earlier, you can re-attach this new coupler to the housing on your TV. Screw your housing back on the TV and you should be good to go.

Jan 19, 2009 | RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready...

2 Answers

I bought a new flyback transformer for a RCA D52W19 TV, but it came with no HV wire. How do you connect to it? Or maybe I was had?

This transformer does not come with the HV lead, you will need to use the one that is there on the old FBT. Unplug the TV for about 30 minutes to allow it to drain any voltage that might still be in the capacitors.
Remember SAFETY comes first.
Good Luck.

Jul 24, 2008 | Televison & Video

1 Answer

Pioneer rear prolection tv

You have bad solder connections on the power supply printed circuit board. It is the board that can be found by following the ac cord to it. Boards like this usually are screwed down to the plastic frame. You will have to unplug some things and undress wires to turn the board upside down and look at the solder connections. There should be obvious bad connections.

Feb 01, 2008 | Televison & Video

3 Answers

My Mitsubishi turns off automatically...

I had the same problem with an RCA, check your sleep mode settings on it, it may have defaulted to 1 min, so it cuts off when it cuts on

Oct 15, 2007 | Mitsubishi VS-60707 60" Rear Projection...

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