The drain fixture in the Tub when you push it down to let water out it goes back up blocking the water from draining. How do I get the drain to stay down? We are taking showers and the tub fills up with water and the only way to get it out is to hold the drain handle down until the water drains out.

you could have either a defrost problem or a blocked drain,up in the freezer there's an evaporator coil,this is what makes everything cold,when the machine goes into defrost there's a heater in the freezer that comes on that melts the ice off of the evap. coil and the melted water drains down a tube and goes down where the compressor is to evaporate,your drain is blocked and the water is dripping into the fridge section,i looked up your model and it shows that they already have a heater probe stuck into the drain tube but it sounds like the drain is still blocking up,the probe is rapped around the heater or near it and the other end is stuck down into the drain tube,when the heater comes on the probe heats up and it supposed to keep the drain from freezing,sometimes food can get in there and block the drain hole,so unplug the fridge or shut it down,remove all the food out of freezer,if it has an ice maker remove it and any shelves,then remove the back inside wall of the freezer,with a hair dryer melt out all the ice under the coil,then you'll see the drain hole under the coil,pour hot water into the hole,if it doesn't go down get a turkey baster or shop vac anything that can push the water down the tube,keep hitting it with the hair dryer,hot water and turkey baster until the water drains down the tube,sometimes you might have to remove the back bottom panel and find the tube,on the bottom it could be blocked with dust or other junk if it is clear it and pour more water into the drain if itt goes down you're done,i use a steamer to do this job that cuts through the ice like butter,if you remove the back wall and the coil is all iced up then you have a defrost problem,but most likely it will be a blocked drain.hope this helps you out.

The drain hose on a dishwasher must be long enough to go up above the water level of the dishwasher and then back down to connect to the sink drain. This is to keep gravity from draining the tank. However, you probably replaced the drain hose the same way it was originally.
Try checking the float and float switch for smooth operation. Maybe the float has debris holding it up from dropping to the true water level.

The drain hose outlet must be located higher that any expected water level in the tub. If too low, gravity drains the tub as it is filled. Extend the (a) drain pipe up to the proper level, even if you are using a floor drain to carry away the water. Hope this helps!

Remove the 4 screws on the back bottom left of the machine. Inside the access panel you will see the drain pump. Remove the hoses and check the pump, hose from pump to drain, and the hose from the tub to pump. Pain close attention to the hose that goes to the tub. Be sure to check up in the tub opening for any blockages from small articles of clothing. If need be, you can remove the pump by taking the belt off the bottom, and then there are 3 screws that hold the pump down.

Make sure the drain hose is not pushed too far down the drain pipe. It could cause a siphon effect and drain the tub.

Make sure the drain hose is not tight in the drain pipe. It should fit loose so as not to trap the air which can also cause a siphon effect.

hi, if you push down on the button and giggle it around it should pop back up once you have it up remove it by unscrewing it and clean the area so that it won't get jammed again

Spring loaded chrome stopper will not stay down to fill tub with water.

I take it that you removed the drain trip linkage and stopper through the vent hole .
You must now run a small hand or small power snake the less than eight feet to open the drain.
You can also plug up the vent,tightly and  try a flat plunger on the tub drain .  

It sounds like a siphon issue.
Check that the drain hose does a high loop before it goes into the drain pipe. (ie. drain hose loops above the water level inside the tub). Make sure the drain hose is not pushed too far down into the drain pipe. Also if the drain hose is sealed to the drain pipe this will create an airlock and a siphon will occur, allow air to enter between drain hose and drain pipe connection.
This should help you but if there is still a problem let me know and I'll try to assist you further.
Good luck!

When you have problems with sewer gas smells around a
fixture, there can be a number of causes.
1. Sewer gas coming back up into the home
a. Blocked vent.
b. No vent.
2. Leaking drains that cause rotting below the floor.
3. Moisture that causes mold buildup.
4. No trap on your sink.
5. One roof vent on septic system.
6. Toilet needs to be reset and calked.

Sewer gas can come back up into your home, when the
trap completely empties after a letting the water out
of a fixture, when the trap dries out, or when it is
sucked out by another fixture flushing. When water
goes into a pipe, it first has to push the air ahead
of it, if there is no place for it to go, it comes up
the trap. This causes a buildup of pressure if there
is no vent.

If there is a vent, the pressure is relieved up to the
roof, carrying with it all of the yucky smells. When
the water runs down the drain, the air behind it has
to be replaced, if its not, the pipes will try to ****
it from some drain...typically the shower drain, but
sometimes the floor drain when its close to a washer.
When vacuum draws air in through the trap on the
laundry tub it also takes the water out of the trap,
leaving an opening where the sewer gasses can come
back up from the septic system .

Think about your pipes as if they are a drinking
straw. When you put a straw into a glass of water,
the water fills the straw. But if you put your thumb
over the end of the straw and pull it out of the
water, the water (or liquid) stays in the straw. This
shows you, air has volume. When you remove your thumb
from the end of the straw, the water flows back into
the glass. This is the principal of a vent.

So if you only have the smell when a fixture is
running, the trap is refilling after the fixture and
blocking the sewer gasses from coming into the home,
but your vent is probably not functioning.
In addition, if you have only one vent up through the
roof on a septic system, you can get sewer gas smells
coming up through your home. As the wind blows
across the roof, it pressurizes the plumbing system.
Since the septic tank is full of water, the wind
cannot go into the septic tank. So it bubbles up through the
traps into the house. Installing a vent on an
opposing roof pitch, helps to relieve the pressure buildup,
since the wind then is only hitting one side of the
roof.

Floor drains are succeptable to this type of pressure.

If your drains are partially clogged it can work
similar to a clogged vent. Since there is no place
for the water to go, it forces the air, which is much
lighter up through traps, bringing sewer gas into the
home.

If your fixture is not set right or is wabbling, the
traps or wax ring that seals it underneith may not be tight.
When this happens, if you empty the fixture, sewer gas
will come under the sink into the room.

Each of these senarios will require a different
solution. The key to solving your problem, is having
the right questions to ask when the plumber comes out
to look at it. The previous information should
provide you with a basis for the questions you need.

Make sure before you call a plumber to check
cleanout covers and pipes to see if they have
openings to the sewer. If you have an opening
without a trap, you will get sewer gasses.

In conclusion, if you don't have a vent inside the
wall which equalizes the air pressure inside the
pipes, if you are on a septic system with only
one roof vent, if the vent is clogged off due to
sludge and soap scum, if you don't have a proper trap
on your sink, or if the drain is clogged, sewer gas can escape
into your home.

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