Control Panel The control panel labeling on our SIEMENS hydroSensor, SL84A305UC/01 rubbed off right away and no one remembers which wash cycle is which. This dishwasher is in a Fire station and has multiple users. The quality of cleanliness is vital to our health. Please send or e-mail us a diagram of what the buttons are supposed to do. Thanks, B.Brewster
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Most likely issue here is that the door is not sealing properly or the sensor on the door is not working, so it can fill up much as your washing machine does but just as the washer won't spin without the door closed neither will the dish washer. An easy way to check this is to let it fill and then lean or push against the door some and see if it starts, if so then the issue is the isn't sealing properly.
A bit late to this but here is how I fixed my dishwasher for about $5 which was:
1. Randomly turning off during cycle
2. Not filling with water (I checked the pumps continuity which was good so I ruled that issue out)
3. After running diagnostics it would occasionally run a full cycle after I filled it with water manualy
I pulled out the Main Control Board W10084142, saw that 2 Capacitors (C131 & C132) were bulging at the top (not flat like the others) so I replaced them for about $5 and the dishwasher works great again! [** This does require very basic soldering skills]
They are rated 1000uf at 6.3 volts and I was only getting a reading of about 150uf. Below is a link for about $5 replacements. 1000uF 6 3V 12 6x10mm Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors 10 Pcs
How to get to the control board:
1. Disconnect Power Source at breaker panel.
2. Open Dishwasher door and locate the 6 hex screws that are holding in the control panel face on the backside of the dishwasher door. There will be 2 on each side of the latch and 4 (2 on each side) of the edge towards the top.
3. The face panel should pop off with a little bit of tugging
4. You will see a black cover, remove that to expose the control board
5. Ensure you label the cables with tape or something prior to removal, some require a bit of tug-and-play but will come off. For example, I labeled black wire with white stripe with a + and all black with a -. Ensure you label the control board components if you cant remember where the black with white stripe goes and vice-versa.
6. There will be little gray plastic clips holding everything in, locate these and slowly pry away the board from the plastic.
If you can take the panel out dry it with a blower.You can use the hair dryer to remove the moisture. Do not point the hot air on the components for more than 20 seconds. Repeat it. If you notice any white/green fungus remove it. Check the connectors also.
Hello and welcome to Fixya.
The assesment of the control is likely accurate. Siemen is made by B/S/H/ ( bosch/ thermador/ siemen/ gaggenau) and there is plenty of president for this issue. Likely if you select just a rinse cycle it will complete fine since the rinse cycle doesn't call for heat from the element/control. sooo... Based on your description I'd say the issue IS indeed with the control. As I said B/S/H/ has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described. ( unless you requested a resolder option...see below re: my opinion on this )
I digress, As I've alluded to the issue is within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch/siemen servicer if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you cannot afford that option or simply feel you want to attempt and are capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself. It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board. This will be one of the pins from the heater relay, hence the unit sit`s and takes forever to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed. **My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...half assed will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)** **Please disconnect the power before attempting any service to the dishwasher. If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Siemen/Gaggenau, to service your machine.**
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further. Thank`s for visiting "fixya" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness. Good luck. macmarkus :)
normally it is on the inner panel frame of the machine which is around the door right or left side. when open the door check that location you will see it. or you can go to thermador .com they own bosch and they can get all of the parts that you need.
If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.
From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.
Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)
Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.
If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...
On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.