Question about Refrigerators
SOURCE: Fresh Food & Freezer Warm
CHECK AND MAKE SURE YOU CAN HEAR YOUR EVAPORATOR FAN RUNNING (INSIDE MOTOR). IF IT IS NOT RUNNING ... AND YOUR COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING. THE MOTOR OR DEFROST TEMENATION SWICTH COULD BE DEFECTIVE. IF NOTHING IS RUNNING ... TRY TO LOCATE THE DEFROST TIMER(USUALLY LOCATED WHERE YOUR COLD CONTROLS ARE) YOU SHOULD SEE A SMALL HOLE WHERE YOU CAN MANUALLY TURN THE TIMER WITH A SCREW DRIVER.IT CAN ONLY TURN IN ONE DIRECTION. IF THE MOTOR IS RUNNING. CHECK TO SEE IF COMPRESSOR IN THE BACK IS RUNNING ... IF IT ISNT AND IS "HOT" (BE CAREFULL) SEE IF THE CONDENSER MOTOR NEAR THE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING ... IF NOT ... THE COND. MOTOR IS BAD ... THAT MOTOR RUNS IF POWER IS GOING TO THE COMPRESSOR ALWAYS. IF COMPRESSOR IS HOT AND NOT RUNNING AND COND. FAN IS RUNNING .... UN PLUG FRIG AND WAIT TILL COMPRESSOR IS COOL TO THE TOUCH. THESE COMPRESSORS HAVE AN INTERNAL T-STAT THAT PROTECTS THE COMPRESSOR IF IT SHORT CYCLES.IT SOMETIMES GETS SO HOT IT DOES TAKE HOURS TO COOL OFF. THERE IS ALSO A DEFROST-TERMINATION SWITCH THAT CAN GO BAD. CONSULT A LICSESED FACTORY CERTIFIED COMPANY TO GIVE YOU A FIXED-PRICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST.
Posted on Apr 28, 2007
SOURCE: FRESH FOOD COMPARTMENT TOO WARM
it could be a defrost heater problem . the heating cycle is not defrosting the ice that is why your having frost build up. the heater could be damaged, thermosdisc damaged, electronic timer module damaged.try thawing it up by unpluging it for a day or two until there is no more water dripping at the back then try it again, im sure the refrigerator section would cool again for a week or two before it wouyld go back to the same problem. dont forget to bring back the setting to 5 for freezer and 35 for refrigerator in order for the thermostat to work.
Posted on Feb 05, 2008
The most likely problem is in the defrost system. Behind the freezer panel there is not only an evaporator fan, but also the evaporator itself, and a defrost heater, termination bi-metal, and drain pan (or trough). You will likely find ice build-up in the evap coil. This could be caused by the defrost timer, the heater, or the termination bi-metal.
Have a service tech look at the unit.
Posted on May 29, 2009
The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
Evaporator coils iced up- either bad bi-metal thermostat,heater or board.Check resistance on thermostat/heating element.If reading resistance try and jump board into defrost mode by jumper wire from l-1 to defrost lead.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it.
Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it
to run. There is a flap you adjust with
the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust
the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
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