I can't get the ice machine to start. No water flowing to the tank. I cleaned the unit including the float valve and checked continuity of float switch which works. No beeps from unit. No noise at all. The red LED power lamp is lit on control board. Any other areas to check? I think it may be the inlet water valve but how do I check it?
I don't have a wiring diagram for this machine so I can't be specific, but I may be able to offer a few suggestions. Check for voltage on the coil by slipping the two wires back off their coil connections you should be able to expose enough of the connection to measure voltage. If voltage exists when machine should be filling, you either have a bad coil, or water is not reaching this point. Check coil resistance by removing wires and testing coil. Resistance reading of 0 or O/L (out of range) would be grounds for replacing the coil.
If coil tests good, look for plugged water filters on water line leading to machine.
Hope this helps,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
There is usually a safety pressure valve besides the floating valve. Make sure it is not in the release position. Push it down. Is your stovetop getting hot enough? Try using a different or larger element.
The Home-tek steam mop is designed for
use on tile, vinyl and wood laminate flooring. This type of mop works a
bit differently than your regular cleaning mop, as it uses steam to
safely sanitize your hard flooring surfaces while removing stuck-on
InstructionsThings You'll Need
Open the cap of the water reservoir. This is located at the base of the unit, at the top of the reservoir, and twist it off.
Pour tap water into the unit until you meet the fill line; water temperature makes no difference.
Make sure a micro-fiber pad is
attached to the bottom of the unit. This will be included with your
purchase, and you may need to replace the pads over time if they wear or
become heavily soiled. Replacements can be purchased from the
manufacturer. If you need to attach the pad to the steam-cleaning unit,
position the shape of the pad so it matches the base of the unit and
snap into place on all four corners.
Turn on the power switch with your foot. The switch is located at the bottom back side of the unit.
Push the steam mop over the hard
floor surface, pushing the steam trigger as needed at the top of the
handle. Continue until your floor is cleaned to your liking.
If the machine's compressor runs when you switch it on, then turn the machine on maximum and let it run for an hour or so. Then check the coils in the back with your hand. If they are not getting cold at all, then there is a significant problem with the refrigeration process in the unit. It may have developed a leak and allowed your refrigerant gas to escape, or there may be another internal problem with the compressor. Either way you would need to have it serviced by a fridge technician, or more likely just replaced with a whole new unit since both options can potentially cost about the same.
If the unit runs normally and the coils are getting cold, then make sure they are not totally icing up which will impede the unit's performance. If your dehumidifier is freezing up then that probably means the unit itself is actually working well. The humidity level in the room may be relatively low and you probably have the unit turned up too high for the conditions.
Try turning down the setting on the unit so that it cycles on and off every few hours and does not run continuously.
Also try using some warm soapy water to clean off any dust or oily residue from the cooling coils in the rear of the unit. Remember to also clean the air intake filter while you are at it.
The ambient temperature in the room may also be a bit too low, so you can try adding some heat to the room if necessary. A dehumidifier will not work properly if the ambient air temperature is too low. Basically, the warmer and more humid the room is, the better they work. Since warm air rises, you can even try lifting the unit higher up off the cold floor onto a bench or table where the air is warmer.
Sometimes the drain tube leading to the bucket is clogged. You can often clean this out by inserting the pointy end of a long heavy duty plastic zip tie and jiggling it around a bit. Do not insert anything metal or sharp into the tube or you may damage it.
You can click on the following link for a general operating and troubleshooting guide with additional tips on effective dehumidifier operation:
This sounds like a problem with the flow switch(es) that control the operation of the pump motor.
When the pressure decreases I assume that the pump has switched itself off - check this before going any further, but I will assume that this is the case. (If the pump is still running when the pressure decreases then you have a really strange problem and I would need to think again).
The pump motor is controlled by flow switches on the outlet side of the pump - when the shower valve is opened the flow of water activates a switch that supplies power to the pump motor. There will be one flow switch on the hot outlet from the pump and another on the cold outlet.
I assume that one or both of the flow switches is not operating correctly. This can be either a fault with the switch(es) or insufficient water pressure on the inlet side. Has anything changed that might have reduced the pressure on the inlet side of the pump? Have you moved the water tank that supplies the pump? (cold water storage tank)
If there is adequate pressure on the inlet then one or both of the flow switches is not working correctly. To further diagnose the problem try turning the shower valve to cold water only and test the operation of the pump, then turn it to hottest and test again.
If the pump operates correctly on cold only or hot only then the associated flow switch is OK, and the other one is faulty.
Replacing a flow switch is not difficult if you are reasonably handy, and I am happy to provide further help if you need it.
Hello. You haven't stated the room temperature and what temp you are trying to raise your tank to, but it sure sounds like the tank is too large for the heater wattage you chose for the tank. The basic rule of thumb is 3-5 watts per gal (about .75 to 1.5 W per ltr) to raise the tank 5 deg-F (approx 2.5 deg-C) above room temp. If you need to raise the tank temp even more, then you will have to choose a larger heater. Using the rule of thumb I would choose at least a 300W heater for a 200ltr tank. Also, do not forget to include the capacity of your refugium/sump, if you use one, in the calculation of your water quantity because you are heating that mass of water as well as your tank.
To begin the cleaning process, the cleaning tank is filled with warm water or a cleaning solution Cleaning solutions can consist of non-ionic surfactants, detergents or ammonia. Note that cleaning agents with bleach and acids should be avoided. Place jewelry items in the basket or directly into the cleaning tank. Turn the machine on. Once on, the machine's motor produces ultrasonic energy which is transmitted with vibrating energy waves. On average, ultrasonicjewelry cleaners emit at least 40,000 sound waves per second. The vibrating motion of the ultrasonic waves creates microscopic bubbles in the water or cleaning solution. millions of tiny bubbles knock into one another and into the items resting in the cleaning tank. The motion is very effective at penetrating the tiny crevices in jewelry that traditional cleaning cloths and topical cleaners cannot easily reach. After a few moments, the cleaning process is complete. Once the motor is turned off, the dirt and debris from the jewelry will settle and collect at the bottom of the cleaning tank. Remove the basket or jewelry from the cleaning tank and rinse with clean fresh water. You can complete the process by drying the jewelry with a soft cloth.
Well, there was no good solution. I capitulated and called in a professional Sears repair guy. He was as baffled as I about what was wrong. We just started throwing parts at it until the problem subsided. We finally decided there must have been a tiny vacuum leak somewhere, probably in some rubber part.
There is no solution. I have three kitchenaid ice makers and they do not work. The 18inch was under warranty. I had it serviced every friday until warranty ran out. I put an inline filter on the machine and it ran like a charm for three months, which is a first. It's out again! The two 15 inch same thing... inline filter and it worked for a month. Yes I have cleaned the machine over and over with appropriate products. It will turn on water fills but it appears as though the pump is not moving the water. Either way the machine worked correctly for two years only for the 15 inch and for the 18 inch one year.
Check for iron content of the water in your area. Excessive iron will clog the zeolite beads in your softener and reduce its life. You can try increasing the backwash and rinse cycles to see if it helps. You can also get an iron pre-filter for a softener. I am assuming you have either a private well or a municipal well.
I am not familiar with your specific model of softener, but generally speaking, adding water to the brine tank is the last step of the regeneration process. This way the water can soak the salt until the next regeneration is called. Then, as you have determined, the valve does reverse direction and draws the brine solution through the resin.
There are other steps involved in regeneration, like back-washing and packing the resin, but you are mostly correct.