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Plug wiring from top of unit to box inside

I replaced the motor on the unit and when i re wired it i pulled the plug outand am not sure if i put the wires in the plug in right order

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  • Dometic Master
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Sort of lost me Grogan04. What wires, and are they not color coded?

Posted on Aug 15, 2008

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Rudd central unit , turn A/C on[therm. inside] all U can hear is a Buzzing noise coming from the outside unit , found that [1] capacitor wire had been BURNT , changed wire , then changed capacitor , turned...


Hello
Before you buy a new condensor fan motor check the contacts to the motor are not worn or pitted.

Hold or push the contactor in by using an insulated screwdriver and see if the fan motor turns.

Also the start cap you bought? was it the correct one meaning mfd micrfarad?

If all the above checks out ok then you need a fan motor,you can wire the motor direct to check it also.

From what you describe it sounds like the fan motor is burnt up and worn out,not uncommon.

Mar 22, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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My hot wire for my blower motor came out of the fuse box (actually looks like the **** melted ) is there a way to run a seperate switch for my blower motor or is it hard to replace the fuse box oh my car...


If you don't want to go to the bother of changing the fuse box then you can run a power wire direct from the battery to a switch inside the car and hook the blower motor to the other side. It will always be live so you will have to remember to turn it off when you turn the car off. Also make sure you put an in-line fuse between the switch and the blower motor. Make sure that when you feed the wire through the firewall that it can't connect with metal or it will short out. Put the wire through one of the rubber plugs that are already there. Hope this helps.

Sep 05, 2010 | 1997 Mercury Mystique

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My air condition unit will not turn on. the fuse is fine, the powerbox next to the outdoor unit is fine, the wiring seems to be fine, but there is one wire that seems to have been pulled out about 3 feet...


Hi, If the main breaker is fine, the box at the unit is the disconnect box for it. If you pull the block out of the box, you will have a plastic cover there. Remove this cover and there are 2- fuses inside. If you have a meter you can ohm them out. If not, pick up 2 of the same amps. Probably 30 to 35 amps depending on the size of your unit. I am not sure about this one wire you say that is pulled out. If its not coming from the disconnect box there at the unit, or its not the small conductor thermostat wiring, you should try and find out what it is. If you have no dogs that may have chewed the stat wires, I wouldn't think this wire has any thing to do with the a/c. If the indoor unit is also off, remove the control panel. This is a new system so look for the circuit control board. It will have a 3 to 5 amp automotive type plug in fuse in it. Check to see if it has blown. You can normally tell by looking at the top metal strip, it will be burned, blackened. If your not sure, just replace it. You should have a Red led light on the board, or a hole to peep through to see if you can see if the led is on. If it is on, the fuse is good and we will need to go further.You may have a stat problem but first check these things. If the indoor unit is off to, start there looking for that small fuse. This is more then likely the fault. Keep me posted,
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
PS When you remove the panel on the indoor unit, some will have a switch that kills the power when you do take it off. If so, you can tape it down to restore power. Make sure you remove the tape when done and put the panel on right or the unit will not start. I would start at the indoor unit control board.

Jun 04, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Have an older Maytag top load washer. Probably 10 yrs old. Totally quit in mid cycle.There is a small glass fuse behind the panel that holds the timer and water selector switch that seemed to be blown. I...


Hi,
This could be a bad timer. Try changing setting on timer and truing it on. One thing for sure you have a dead short... This could be the timer or the motor or it could be a wire inside the cabinet shorted out... There should be 2 clips on the top front of machine that hold the top douwn use a putty knife or other thin but stiff object to pust in on those clips while pulling up on top at the same time then you can fold the top back out of the way and just look for anything unsuual. Burnt/ broken wires loose wires etc... The front will need to be removed to observe motor area... Usually 2 screw at top left and right the pullout and up... Smell around the motor for that burned rubber smell.
Please let me know if I can do anything else to help

Apr 08, 2010 | Maytag Washing Machines

1 Answer

How is error f28 and f171


F28 is a serial bus error from the CCU (Central Control Unit) to the MCU (Motor Control Unit).

All you need is some Electronics contact cleaner spray and a 1/4 inch socket to remove the top of the machine and the back of the machine.
The CCU is the computer looking box at the top front right hand corner.
Find connector M13, (has red marking on it and only 3 wires) disconnect it by pushing the retainer tab back and pulling gently on the connector.
Spray the contacts of the connector and computer with connector cleaner.
Then re-assemble connector.
The MCU is in the back lower left corner.
Find the connector with 3 wires and red mark, and remove this connector in the same way you did the other, spray it and re-install.
Put the back and top back on.

The F70 and F71 error codes on this model of washer indicates a communication problem between the user interface control board and the central control unit (main control board). These error codes can sometimes be caused by a power surge or glitch through the electrical lines. Try unplugging the washer to completely disconnect electrical power. Wait 1 minute and then plug the washer back in to the see if the fault code clears. If it does, then the washer may work normally.

If the code reappears, then you could have a wire harness connection problem, a failed user interface control board or a failed central control unit. I recommend calling a service technician to properly diagnose and repair this type of problem so that the correct component can be replaced.


Be sure your unit is plugged into a 3 prong grounded outlet as well.


F71 is a "heatbeat failure" which means that your front interface control board is shorted and will need to be replaced. it's actually fairly easy to replace and can definitely be done by yourself. To access the part, just pull the unit forward and remove the 3 screws coming in from the back of the top panel. Remove the top panel by pulling it back, up, and off. Then remove all the screws going into the top of the control panel. Remove the dispenser drawer and remove the screws coming in through the dispenser. Remove the screws coming from the inside of the dryer going forward into the control panel, then remove the control panel (it's just clipped in on the bottom. After that you can disconnect the wire harnesses to the front interface control board and replace that part.


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Feb 02, 2010 | Kenmore Elite HE3 Steam 8674 Dryer

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No spark, is there a way to test spark box?


Not really, you can check the spark unit by taking the cylinder assembly off as a unit and you will find a lever at the top, put a battery in tool and depress this lever, the fan should run for a few seconds and then shut off, next depress the trigger and the same should happen. Then while holding the lever (watch fingers on fan) depress the trigger and you should get spark, if not I would look for a loose spark plug wire at the spark unit, check for the wires grounding on the head assembly and broken wires there also. Also when checking at the spark unit make sure one of the 2 plugs is not partially pulled up. The simplest thing to replace is the circuit assembly, but if you have it apart it would be worthwhile to take it to a shop and see if they can change one part or the other to ensure you get the right one first. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Brushes not spinning in Wash mode


take apart the unit at the top (Behind the cleaning fluid container) Inside there is a wire coming up from the motor at the bottom of the unit. This can come unlpugged no longer powering the scrub brushes. Simply slip the wire back on the plug.

To open: remove all visible screws from top half of machine. Remove the rubber mode dial by pulling off, and remove screw behind that. Pull the front off, and the power plugs are located right on the inside of the machine by the mode dial

May 04, 2009 | Hoover Floormate H3000 Upright Wet/Dry...

1 Answer

Brushes don't go around


The power wire may have slipped off inside.

take apart the unit at the top (Behind the cleaning fluid container) Inside there is a wire coming up from the motor at the bottom of the unit. This can come unlpugged no longer powering the scrub brushes. Simply slip the wire back on the plug.

To open: remove all visible screws from top half of machine. Remove the rubber mode dial by pulling off, and remove screw behind that. Pull the front off, and the power plugs are located right on the inside of the machine by the mode dial

Jul 06, 2008 | Hoover Floormate H3000 Upright Wet/Dry...

1 Answer

Brushes won't spin


The power wire may be disconnected
take apart the unit at the top (Behind the cleaning fluid container) Inside there is a wire coming up from the motor at the bottom of the unit. This can come unlpugged no longer powering the scrub brushes. Simply slip the wire back on the plug.

To open: remove all visible screws from top half of machine. Remove the rubber mode dial by pulling off, and remove screw behind that. Pull the front off, and the power plugs are located right on the inside of the machine by the mode dial

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