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Plug wiring from top of unit to box inside

I replaced the motor on the unit and when i re wired it i pulled the plug outand am not sure if i put the wires in the plug in right order

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Sort of lost me Grogan04. What wires, and are they not color coded?

Posted on Aug 15, 2008

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1 Answer

Compressor want come on


Here is what to do . Pull out or turn off Electrical disconnect behind unit . Carefully remove panel covering controls in unit . Note most units have a flat panel with a few screws, but some GE units have a welded metal box on top of unit which needs to be removed. After exposing controls. replace or turn on disconnect. Then take a plastic handled screwdriver and push in on center of contactor (boxlike part with a lot of wires hooked ) If the compressor now comes on release contactor , and check for 24 Volts AC at base of contactor where thermostat (small wires that run on outside of black refrigerant line ) with thermostat on and calling for cool you should measure 24 to 28 volts . If voltage is present replace contactor after disconnecting from power. If no voltage go inside , remove cover from thermostat, and check for 24 volts between red ( R) and yellow (Y ) terminals on thermostat , If voltage is present , replace thermostat , no voltage check voltage in heater / air handler if you have voltage at air handler , replace thermostat wire from heater to thermostat / if no voltage check for blown fuse in heater , this should be either an inline fuse or an automotive type fuse plugged into circuit board (with power to heater disconnected check broken wire or black mark in fuse when held up to light. If fuse good turn on power to heater and check for 230v to one side of transformer, if you get voltage to Primary (incoming side ) of transformer, check output side of transformer for 24 - 28 volts. If transformer shows input but no output replace transformer after turning power off. If you heard a buzzing or grinding noise , when pushing in contactor , but compressor didn't start look at run capacitor (this is round or oval shaped object with wires going to contactor and compressor ) Looking at area where wires plug this should be a flat surface , if it looks domed shaped or bulging out , it is blown and needs replaced , use same mfd rating and 440 Volts to be on safe side. / If there was no noise from compressor when contactor was pushed in , put your hand on top of compressor (black object in center of unit ) If hot , allow to cool for at least three hours with power to unit turned off and retest . If compressor comes on after cooling , check for bad fan motor in outside unit (it may make a squealing or wining noise and stop runing for a while , also check for / clean outdoor coils
Hope this helps .
Thanks,
Alex


Oct 04, 2014 | Carrier Comfort 3.0 Ton 13 Seer Ac Only...

6 Answers

I have an outside unit mfr Goodman, model # CKL-49-1. The blower motor isn't working. I'm able to hear it attempting to start. How do I check this motor to see if it's bad? Thanks


You have bad capacitor on your unit it may not look bad but chances are it is just get the microfarad rateing of the side of the cap. should be like 55.5 55 7.5 something like that. Also check your fan motor. last. I have changed hundreds of caps this year. Russ

Jul 16, 2009 | Goodman CKL36AR36 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Rudd central unit , turn A/C on[therm. inside] all U can hear is a Buzzing noise coming from the outside unit , found that [1] capacitor wire had been BURNT , changed wire , then changed capacitor , turned...


Hello
Before you buy a new condensor fan motor check the contacts to the motor are not worn or pitted.

Hold or push the contactor in by using an insulated screwdriver and see if the fan motor turns.

Also the start cap you bought? was it the correct one meaning mfd micrfarad?

If all the above checks out ok then you need a fan motor,you can wire the motor direct to check it also.

From what you describe it sounds like the fan motor is burnt up and worn out,not uncommon.

Mar 22, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

My air condition unit will not turn on. the fuse is fine, the powerbox next to the outdoor unit is fine, the wiring seems to be fine, but there is one wire that seems to have been pulled out about 3 feet...


Hi, If the main breaker is fine, the box at the unit is the disconnect box for it. If you pull the block out of the box, you will have a plastic cover there. Remove this cover and there are 2- fuses inside. If you have a meter you can ohm them out. If not, pick up 2 of the same amps. Probably 30 to 35 amps depending on the size of your unit. I am not sure about this one wire you say that is pulled out. If its not coming from the disconnect box there at the unit, or its not the small conductor thermostat wiring, you should try and find out what it is. If you have no dogs that may have chewed the stat wires, I wouldn't think this wire has any thing to do with the a/c. If the indoor unit is also off, remove the control panel. This is a new system so look for the circuit control board. It will have a 3 to 5 amp automotive type plug in fuse in it. Check to see if it has blown. You can normally tell by looking at the top metal strip, it will be burned, blackened. If your not sure, just replace it. You should have a Red led light on the board, or a hole to peep through to see if you can see if the led is on. If it is on, the fuse is good and we will need to go further.You may have a stat problem but first check these things. If the indoor unit is off to, start there looking for that small fuse. This is more then likely the fault. Keep me posted,
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
PS When you remove the panel on the indoor unit, some will have a switch that kills the power when you do take it off. If so, you can tape it down to restore power. Make sure you remove the tape when done and put the panel on right or the unit will not start. I would start at the indoor unit control board.

Jun 04, 2010 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

Outdoor unit fan is running when turned of inside? is this normal?


No. The thermostat (located in the house) controls both the inside and outside units.

A common problem for the situation you're describing (and the one I will explain here) is that the contactor (located in the outside unit) which is controlled by 24 Volts coming from the 'inside' thermostat - has 'stuck' in the 'made' position (causing line voltage to remain to the condenser 'and' possibly to the compressor).

To 'determine' this - 'turn off the line voltage to the outside unit.'

You do that by locating the 'breaker/fuse box' which is located near the outside unit. It will be a gray box about the size of large cigar box - and will be attached to the side of the house usually - although it can be on the AC unit itself.


The lid can be lifted which will expose a 'breaker switch' which resembles a light switch (sometimes a little larger) which can be flipped in the OFF position.

If it's a 'fuse block' - then you will have to grip it and pull it out. Usually there will be a metal ring that you can grip and pull. Once the 'block' is out - you will notice that it contains two fuses.

Either way - once you flip the switch down or pull the fuse block - the line voltage is disconnected to the AC.

NOTE: some 'older' breaker boxes contain 'knife connectors,' which are designed to 'disconnect line voltage' by the action of 'pulling a handle (on the side of the box) ... down. When this handle is pulled down the 'knife connectors' will 'disengage - thus disconnecting the line voltage to the AC unit. "It is not uncommon" - for 'one' of these 'knife connections' to remain in the "connected" position - which will still leave partial line voltage to the outside unit - a potentially dangerous situation.

Point being - it is always wise to check the voltage coming in (with a voltmeter) before sticking your hands into a electrical device like a AC.

That being said - sometimes after turning off the breaker switch (or pulling the fuse box) you can hear a 'buzzing noise' coming from the outside unit. If you hear this noise - it means you are still getting 24 Volts from the inside thermostat. However, in this case, assuming the thermostat is indeed OFF - then you shouldn't hear any buzzing noise.

Either way - when you turn the breaker off the unit will shut off. NOTE: be sure the inside thermostat is in the OFF position.

Then you can open the electrical panal of the AC unit and take a look at the electrical components. NOTE: as stated above it's always 'wise' to use a voltmeter and "make sure" there is no voltage to the unit. You are looking for 24, 110 or 220 volts.

The component (contactor) you are looking for is usually easily identified because the unit's main electrical wires (typically 3) are coming into the contactor from the breaker box.

This component usually has a small plastic front plate that can be removed by taking out a couple of screws. (Note: it wouldn't be unsual for this cover to be missing already)

Once the cover is removed you can see that this device is designed to 'connect' the wires coming in from the breaker box to another set of matching wires that sends line voltage to the fan and compressor among other things.

It is a 'spring loaded' device that is usually 'pulled together by 24 Volts coming from the inside thermostat - but by depressing it (manually with a screwdriver) will cause the copper contacts to "make" - thus - connecting the wires from the breaker to the wires sending voltage to the fan and compressor.

This is accomplished with 'spring loaded action.' Normally - you should be able to take a screwdriver (as stated above) and manually depress the contacts - but in this case - it - may already be - "made" - and you will not be able to this.

Usually if this is the case the copper contacts have 'burnt' together - and the connection is permantely engaged - which is what causing the AC to run (outside) even though OFF on the thermostat inside the house.

If the contacts have burnt and are permantely engaged - then the 'fix' is to replace the contactor - which can be accomplished by removing all the wires (from the contactor) - clearly labeling them so you can replace them on the new one.

Once you've removed all the wires - you need to remove the contactor from the unit. It will usually be 'screwed' into the unit with screws.

Once you have the contactor out you can take it to a Air Conditioning Supply house and buy a replacement part. I would try to get an identical contactor - to make it as easy as possible re-installing it and putting the wires back on it.

NOTE: I would not attempt this unless you are -very - "mechanically inclined." Changing out a contactor can be very complicated/difficult.

Also - 'paying a Service Tech to do this for you - shouldn't cost much - probably less than $100 (if you already have the replacement part).

Good luck!

May 13, 2010 | Panasonic CW-1006FU Air Conditioner

2 Answers

I live in south texas overnight the ac stopped GOODMAN MODEL


Is the condenser fan (outside) turning? You mention that it's hot but don't say if it's turning or not.

These fan motors normally run pretty hot, but not so much that they shut down due to internal thermal overload protectors.

Both the compressor and the fan have termperature overload protectors to keep them from burning out the motor in the event of an overheated condition. The condenser fan must be running or high freon pressure will put an excessive load on the compressor and it will 'kick out' the high-temp overload protector.

Turn off the unit by pulling the outside disconnect (in a small box near the outside compressor unit) or flip the AC breakers in the breaker box. Wait about 30 minutes for the unit to cool off and turn it back on. If the compressor and fan both run for awhile then kick back off, or the fan motor seems to be working under excessive strain, you've probably got a bad motor start condenser (inside the unit) that little round can that is connected through the fan motor wiring. If it's swollen or leaking, it's almost surely defective and even if it's not, excessive load on the motor is a classic sign of a bad start condenser.

You can usually find these at electrical supply stores, well-stocked hardware stores, or most certainly at an HVAC parts house. Be sure to replace the old one with one of the EXACT same value (in voltage and Microfarads (mF) capacity. The shape may be a little different, but as long as the electrical characteristics are the same and is rated at the same or higher voltage than the original, it will work.

Connect the new condenser, mount it to the frame, and restart the unit. This should take care of the problem.

Hope this helps.

Jun 28, 2009 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

Dometic 57915.531 - high fan does not work


If it is a wall mounted thermostat, then you need to check the control box mounted on the inside of the unit. Remove the inner shroud to access. Check for power on the blue wire entering the control box from the thermostat, this is the high fan circuit. There should also be power on the orange(or tan) wire from the tstat. This is the fan circuit. Both these need to be hot with 12VDC for the fan to run on high. If you have power there, try removing the cover from the inside and access the squirrel cage (fan blade) inside the unit, turn the tstat to High fan and try starting the fan motor by hand. If it starts, then you have a bad fan capacitor. If not, check power to the fan on the top unit and all wiring leading to the fan. If you have power to the fan and it still does not run, you need a new fan motor.

Hope this helps,

Jeff

Jun 08, 2009 | Dometic 57915531 Air Conditioner

2 Answers

GE zoneline heat not working


You need to have some one check the continuity of the thermal fuses at the plug where it plugs into the side of the control box. It's a two pin plastic white plug with black fabric covered wires coming out of the plug, you should have about (0) resistance or maybe 1 ohm. If you have no reading at all you will have to pull the heating coils out. Not a big job but, the unit must be removed from the wall as you have to take off the long top metal plate. Remember you do this only if you have to get to the coils. You can get the the plastic plug with out removing the unit but unplugging the plastic plug this may be a little tough but, you can do it.
Make sure you pull the Power plug out of the unit or out of the wall before testing for continuity.
I hope this helps. I put a picture below. It's the only one I have. On the right of the unit under the control panel there is a metal box you can see the front if it in the picture. Most units have this box on the right side. On the left side of the box are the plugs for heat, fan and Thermal fuses.
There maybe another plug with yellow wires. the plug with the 2 black wires is the one you want. Squeeze the side of the plug to unlock the plug then just pull out and test.

V6boyo
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Nov 09, 2008 | GE Zoneline AZ55H07D Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Wiring a fan motor on outside unit


Hello Ky_dodge_gir.. In most communities, the wiring to that outside unit is fed with flex tubing that comes from a disconnect box mounted to the outside wall of the house. If yours is like that, open it up and pull the disconnect module out to disable power to the fan motor. Before working on it, verify power has been disabled ( I use an inexpensive volt meter or non contacting inductive power sense testor ..looks like a small flashlight and beeps/lights up if power is sensed in a wire lead). Once you are certain power have been disabled, you should be able to unplug the existing fan power connector from it's corresponding mating plug or (assuming you have the exact replacement fan) match color code wire for wire from the old to the new. The fan unit is a bolt in/bolt out assembly so that should be fairly obvious when working on it. Hope that helps you..

Oct 05, 2008 | Intertherm Air Conditioners

1 Answer

I own an armstrong air unit after about 30 minutes the unit seems to get hot and the fan quits the compressor is still running I changed the motor on the fan and it still does the same thing I have also...


Chech the fans rotation , the fan is suppose to blow air out the top, also if you changed the fan out ,check for the blade on right, its suppose to scoop the air from the inside and blows it out the top,, also replace the capicator...sounds to me like the motors getting too hot and tripping on internal ly high temp. Hey, slow down "Big Money"! The problem is around the fan location! Thank-you-very-much!

Aug 27, 2008 | Air Conditioners

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