Question about Philips HTS3450 System

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No Sound I have the same problem everyone seems to be having and as recommended I bought the 470uF/35Vcapacitors but I am unsure which ones to change as there are lots of capacitors.If you could direct me to the correct one to change. Thanks P

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  • jutterback Mar 25, 2009

    I have the same no sound problem, which cap number do you change? C905 and 906 or C913 and 914? do you use 20 V vs 16 V for the loss of sound after fix? what Radio shackk part number is working best? Electolytic or Ceramic?



    Thanks for the advise!

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You are probably actually looking for two 16v capacitors, not 25v. They are either black or brown near the huge copper coil magnet capacitor at the end of the board. A thin, tall metal heatsink sits between it and the copper coil capacitor. Philips is notorious for their completely worthless stereo systems, so they probably knew about the problem with the capacitors and put in 25v for later versions of the hts3450.

Posted on Dec 10, 2008

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

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The new capacitors have a lot more value than the factory ones. Because of the higher value the amplifier will have to give it all it's got and mostlikely not live for too long (see first comment).
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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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