NO POWER. CORD TESTED OK AND IVE ALREADY CHANGED THE FUSE BUT STILL NO POWER...

Fuses check good. Transistors omn bad.

Check the fuse which should be close to the power cord on the back. Check it with an ohms meter or replace with a new one.

Most likely bad electrolitic capacitors from it sitting for a long time

There probably is NOT a fuse and usual cause is problem with the adapter or the power connectors. Broken solder of the connector in the keyboard is common. Broken cords on the adapter is common as well.

Transformers are VERY reliable. Look for another problem... rectifier, filter caps, fuses, regulators. There is a main fuse and if it is blown, repair the unit before applying full power. To test the unit, put a 40 watt light bulb in series with the hot side of the power cord. The light will act as a resetable fuse and will light when there is a short within the mixer, thus absorbing most of the voltage. Enough current will flow to diagnose the problem.

Replace diodes CR6 through CR9 and test C31 and C33 for short. If all OK and fuse still blows, remove the power tubes and test. Hopefully you do not have a transformer short.

To save fuses, put a 150 watt light bulb in series to act as a reseting fuse while testing.

You are saying the fuse blew out and then asking if there is a fuse??? That makes no sense...

Tripping on cords could do certain things but NOT likely to blow a fuse.

Tripping on cords OFTEN breaks the plugs on the cords or the jacks in the equipment. The power input jacks from those wall transformer power supplies seem to be very vulnerable to this. They often disintegrate OR break loose from the solder on the circuit boards rendering the unit inoperable.

In future, loop the cords through handles so they don't yank the jacks if somebody yanks the cord.

It sounds like a failure in the preamp stages, but fortunately you can do a lot of troubleshooting externally.

Drive the "power amp input" jack with another source of audio that has some reasonable output... like a small CD player. If this works (no mind the level, just the quality, that will verify if the power amp is OK.

If the power amp is OK, the use the preamp out to another amplifier.

If it is OK, then the Power amp input jack switch MAY be bad, When nothing is plugged into these, the preamp is sent to the power amp by a switch on the power amp input jack.

If you do these tests, you can email me the results and I will give further tests to run.

If you feel comfortable doing it you could try removing the back and examining the power supply. Make sure the power cord is not plugged in. Remove the screws holding the back on the organ. Look to see where the power supply is. It will be a fair sized metal box that the power cord comes out of. Look for a fuse holder on the box.If there isn't one or you already checked the fuse look to see how the power supply is fastened down. If you can remove it you can check the power cord from the plug end to the connection in the power supply with a volt ohm meter on the lower resistance scale. Check both sides of the power cord . Look for an internal fuse soldered into the circuit if there is one. Check it also. You can also check the power switch the same way. Think of the power cord and switch etc as a garden hose. You want to make sure that the flow of electricity is not interrupted any where between the plug and the power transformer. Do all these tests with the cord unplugged. Also avoid touching anything connected to the filter capacitors as they store dangerous amounts of electricity. If none of this helps note the plug that connects the power supply to the organ. Unplug it and take the power supply in to be tested. A good piano service place should be able to direct you to someone. Also remember that something had to make the power supply fail if it is indeed faulty. None of this is simple or recommended for a person who has no experience with electricity or electronic repair. If you feel at all hesitant about doing it you are better advised to consult a repair person. If you do have experience but no schematic you can still usually find the problem with careful thought and procedure. Break the circuit down into modules and test them one at a time starting with the power supply. It could be something as simple as a frayed cord or blown fuse to something as complex as a burned out transistor or faulty tube ( in the case of older organs) causing the power supply to fail. I once repaired a home organ that the power supply blew in again because of the customers house wiring. That particular wall plug in had been wired improperly. Hope all this helps.

If it is brand new, it is likely "pilot error" as setting these up if you are unfamiliar with mixers can be frustrating.

There are several things that must be done to have a working system. Correct speaker cables are one and the setting of all the knobs are important...

DO NOT REPLACE FUSE. If any LED's are on, fuse is OK. If fuse blows, service the unit before replacing fuse to avoid further internal damage.

Make sure speaker cables are good.

Set the level control for the channel you are testing up AND you may need to press the "PAD" button to change the input gain. Turn up the master gain.

Depending on the source you are using, line or mic you may need to change the PAD button.

NOTE: This mixer does NOT have Phantom power and cannot be used with CONDENSER microphones requiring phantom power. You will get no audio from a condenser mic without phantom power. You must use dynamic mics with this mixer.