Question about RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready Television

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Brightness I'm not sure I'm in the right place. My model number appears to be: HD52W59YX21. The set works just fine. My only concern is, the picture doesn't seem as bright as when we bought it, three or four years ago. Maybe I've just been looking at too many friends' new LCD TVs -- but I'm wondering if maybe a lamp replacement might be in order. I've been thru the setup menu -- there are no convergence problems, everything seems to be just fine... Except the brightness. ideas??

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Since this is a CRT based projection set, there is no "lamp" to be replaced. If the overall picture color is good, but it seems dark, there could be an accumulation of dust and dirt on the CRT lenses and/or the mirror. Carefully remove the back to gain access to these parts and clean them with a slightly damp cloth. Please note that there is high voltage at the tubes even with the set of and unplugged. Barely dampen the cloth only enough to collect any dust that may be there. Clean the miror as you would any other one.

Let us know the results.

Dan

Posted on Oct 08, 2008

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Is the contrast setting normal? You tube 'may' be fading, but not yet failed. A licensed pro should help you decide whether a replacement is in order or not.

Posted on Oct 05, 2008

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Sound, but no picture


If before it was going rather bright red or a version of that--it is related to the circuit for the red picture tube this set uses---the tube itself or the circuit board that plugs onto the end of that tube.

If bright red, green or blue screen set will detect too much current being drawn and blank or turn tubes off; not likely a do it yourself repair and this set is prone to this and many other problems---Just Google the model number with "problems" and see what I mean.

Apr 19, 2012 | RCA D52W20 52" Rear Projection HDTV-Ready...

1 Answer

The picture does not seem as bright as it was


This rear projection from the model number appears to be a RCA AND not the zenith listed in your question.

If RCA the lens for the tubes may be dusty or dirty--should be cleaned once a year.

Process is simple: unplug set and remove rear cover.

Locate the three large black lens at top of chassis and either with a lens cloth or a paper towel with glass cleaner sprayed on the towel clean them.

If they are dirty/dusty they will make picture look darker and duller than it once was---they are the light source for your picture.

Mar 18, 2012 | Zenith Projection Televisions

2 Answers

In the past few day i've noticed the picture is


BRIGHTNESS. Your owner's manual probably says that the brightness setting is used to control "brightness" or "picture intensity" or something other fuzzy non-descript term. The truth is that brightness is used to set the BLACK level in the picture.
On most TVs and projectors in use today, brightness is set too high. That's because people think "a bright picture is good, so I will set it as bright as I can get." Well, that's nice in theory, but entirely wrong in practice. Setting the brightness level too high makes a black tuxedo look gray rather than black. It muddies up the shadow areas, and reduces the overall snap and crispness that the picture would have if properly calibrated.
To find the right setting for brightness, go to the image in your movie that has textured blacks and hopefully some shadow/low light areas in which there is detail. Then freeze on that frame. As you move the brightness control down, the intensity of the blacks will increase, and shadows will get darker. As you move the control all the way to zero, you will (hopefully) see that the low light shadow areas will also go to solid black and lose their detail.
The optimum setting for brightness is achieved at just the point where true black objects appear as black as your system will make them while retaining as much visible detail in the shadow areas. Above this point the blacks appear to go grayer. Below this point you lose detail in the shadows. On many video systems, this optimum point is toward the lower end of the brightness scale. But find the point that looks correct to you regardless of where it is on the scale.
CONTRAST. The contrast control is similarly confusing. It is also often set too high on the theory that contrast is good, and therefore we might as well get the most we can out of our set by turning it all the way up. In fact, the contrast setting is used to control the intensity of the brightest highlights in the picture, so it is (oddly enough) the opposite of brightness control.
First, find your test scene in which you find textured whites in bright light, and freeze that frame. You are looking for the brightest elements in the picture in which you want to retain visible detail.
Let's assume you have a whitewashed fence in sunlight. If you start with the contrast set low, the fence will appear light gray rather than white. As you move the contrast control up, the fence will get whiter. Eventually details in the texture of the fence will begin to disappear.
If you continue to push contrast past the optimum point, the wood-grain texture of the fence will go solid white and all visible detail will be obliterated. Push contrast up even a little further, and our fenceposts might actually appear to expand very slightly due to a glow around the edges. This phenomenon, called "blooming" is a definite sign that your contrast setting is overcooking the image (and maybe your picture tube as well—don't ever leave the contrast control set this high!!!)
Find the point at which whites look white while retaining as much texture detail as possible. This is your optimum contrast setting. On most video systems, this setting is toward the higher end of the scale, but it can be anywhere. Find the point that looks correct to you. (By the way, unlike TV's, digital projectors will not bloom)
Now…note the following: brightness and contrast can be to some degree interactive. Your new contrast setting may have affected your brightness. So return to the brightness scene and verify that your blacks are still black, and you still have maximum detail in the shadows. Adjust it if necessary, then return and adjust the contrast setting once again if necessary. (You can see that this is much easier if the black and white elements you are testing all appear in the same image!)
COLOR. The color control on your set determines the level of color intensity in the image. One of the most common errors people make in calibrating their video systems is overdriving the color. That's what makes Larry King look reddish-orange on the TV at the gym. Overdriving color is common because once again, people naturally think, "I want to get as much color as I can out of this color TV, so I will crank it up some to make sure I get the most out of it!" No. Bad mistake.
If you move the color setting down to zero you will notice that your picture will turn into a black and white image. The optimum setting for color is achieved by increasing the setting just to the point where colors look natural and not a bit more! Flesh tones should look natural and without any hint of an unnatural glow. Grass should look naturally green rather than screaming spray-paint green.
When adjusting color, make sure that your test image has relatively unsaturated colors. Flesh tones or natural landscapes are ideal. It is impossible to set color properly if you are using a brilliant red Ferrari as your test subject.
On the large majority of video systems, the optimum setting for color is somewhere near the middle of the scale. However, trust your eyes for the optimum setting and think "what looks like the most natural, accurate reproduction of reality?" Any overdriving of color will make the image look artificial.
TINT or HUE. The tint control adjusts color balance rather than color intensity. It is an easy control to set properly, but for some reason many people don't get it right. When flesh tones look either too green or too magenta, a phenomenon you see with amazing frequency, it is because the tint control is not set properly.
Find a human face and freeze-frame it. (In choosing your test subject, note that lighter skin tones will show errors in tint more readily than darker skin tones). As you move the tint control to one end of the spectrum, the face turns green; as you move it to the other extreme, the face turns magenta (red+blue).
The correct setting for tint is the point near the middle of the scale at which you can detect no hint of either green or magenta. It is the most neutral point between the two extremes. The flesh tone looks the most natural at this point.
SHARPNESS or DETAIL. The final setting is sharpness or detail. Now, pray tell, who in their right mind wouldn't want the sharpest, most detailed picture they could get? And since there is a control that lets you turn it up, why not turn it up? That's what many folks do, and of course it's exactly the wrong thing to do.
The sharpness control adds processed information to the picture that is NOT part of the original video signal. It adds artificially highlighted edges, and makes the picture look less natural than it otherwise would. This is most evident along the continuous edge of a dark object against a middle-toned background. When sharpness is overdriven the dark edge will be outlined by a white ringing effect that increases contrast just along the edge of your dark object. That edge "highlighting" effect is created by the sharpness control. It is an artificial manipulation of the image. It wasn't in the original scene, and it shouldn't be on your screen either.
On most televisions, the optimum setting for sharpness is zero. On many digital projectors, the optimum setting is either in the low or middle part of the scale. Picture tube televisions and digital projectors behave differently in this regard; on a digital projector it is often possible to fuzz the image by setting sharpness too low.
Now look at your picture with the sharpness turned down or off depending on what works best on your system. You will see a smoother, more natural image. It might take some getting used to, since you may be accustomed to viewing video with all the artificial edge enhancements that create the illusion of added sharpness.
However, when the interference and noise from the artificial sharpness enhancer is removed, you are seeing the most genuine reproduction of the video signal that your projector or TV is capable of. And if you view it for a while, you will gain an appreciation for just how smooth, natural, and satisfying the picture can really look.

Dec 12, 2009 | Sony Grand WEGA KDF-55XS955 55" Rear...

2 Answers

Tv works like 10 min.then retrace lines appear,


the model number 53fdx....etc is not a Toshiba model number---It is a Hitachi model number.

First if it comes on and you get trace lines before it shuts off----does it just get very bright and if so does it get bright red, green, or Blue?

if one of the picture tubes or the circuit around them has a problem you can get this and the set will shut down because it detects something is pulling way too much current.

I would be happy to try to help you but look at back of your set for brand and model number and if possible try to give me a better idea of what the picture looks like before it goes out.

SD TECH

Oct 17, 2009 | Projection Televisions

1 Answer

Color


see if there is a "default" option, if not set everything back to the middle, if the colors are still off you sure its not the convergence?
most big screens allow you to change "color temperature" it's like a default adjustment for 3 different brightness levels.... ie...COOL, WARM picture will show obvious changes in brightness

Apr 24, 2009 | Philips 50P8341 50" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

My phillips model 60pp920217f has a horrible picture...no green to the color


The green CRT coolant has congealed thats whats giving you the green halos. Change the coolant in the green and blue and your set will be fine. red is never affected so the red coolant should be fine.

May 07, 2008 | Philips 43PP9202 43" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Mitsubishi WS-65807 + PS3 1080i Screen goes blank when bright white displayed


Go to PS3 / Display settings. Set superbright OFF, even if you don't have HDMI. Set Cross Color Reduction to OFF. Set Display to only one resolution, not all of them as you probably have it now. Set it ot the highest possible resolution and uncheck all other boxes. The 480i is always on by default. The issue, which was very annoying, was fixed for me. I have a mitsubishi 65 inch RP that is pretty bright on daytime/sunlight scenes, so I never thought it was the PS3, but only whet the PS3 was used did this occur. I scanned this site via google to find that nobody else appeared to have resolved this. So after some changes and testing this solution worked for me. Enjoy! - Dave Walz

P.S. I think the only real fix was to set just one display resolution, but I am now watching a movie and am not going to stop it to find out. :) That's for whomever follows this posting to find out for themselves. Either way, this is working great.

Apr 17, 2008 | Projection Televisions

1 Answer

Picture color - it is a blue and green picture- no other color- looks artificial


update your tv with a usb drive. worked on my phillips 60PP9200D/37. get update at phillips web site. solves many problems

Jan 18, 2008 | Philips 60PP9200D Television

1 Answer

Convergence


you need to replace the convergence ic'S inside the unit

Aug 17, 2007 | Sony KP-53S65 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Sony KP 53S65 53" rear projection TV contrast issue


While the root of the problem is likely the picture tubes aging, I'm sure it would benefit from a cleaning and adjusting. After the dust is cleaned from the lenses, the screen controls could likely be lowered to get the blacks you desire. An experienced tech would be able to do this for you.

Jan 03, 2007 | Sony KP-53S65 53" Rear Projection...

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