Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV

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Mitsubishi DLP - model #WD62725

Lamp indicator light turned red - replaced lamp and light turned red again. Got another lamp thinking maybe the new lamp was a defect. However, after receiving yet another lamp I am still getting the lamp indicator light red. No picture, sound, nothing. T.V. starts up and then within 10-15 seconds the lamp indicator light turns red again. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have ordered a new lamp and replaced the lamp but the red light stills stays
on.......the t.v. will try to work for 10 12 sec and then the red light comes on.....and by trying to work I mean there is no red light......but there is never
any kind of picture........I have replaced the lamp before and had no problem....
Do you know what might be wrong

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  • bigmatt Sep 01, 2008

    What fixed your problem - I have the same problem with my wd 52525

  • BPWhale Sep 10, 2008

    I also have a red light after replacing the lamp. No pic, no sound, nothin'.

    The troubleshooting guide that came with the lamp stated that there are 3 common failures:

    1. Defective Lamp - examine the lamp for signs of failure such as being shattered on the inside, visible haze or cloud, or burner is broken or has a bump on it. (In my case, the original lamp didn't have any of these symptoms.)

    2. Bad Capacitors - there can be several bad capacitors on the power supply and/or signal board of the TV causing this symptom. This is simple to diagnose by looking on the left side of the TV for capacitors that are leaking or look swollen. (I haven't located these capacitors yet...)

    3. Bad Ballast - If you have eliminated the lamp and capacitors as a cause, the 3rd common cause is a bad ballast. The ballast is the power supply for the lamp.

    Being a mechanical guy, I'm going to be guessing a bit on this electrical stuff. But the lamp is definitely NOT the cause of the problem.

    Any help on identifying the electrical components would lower my risk...



  • Anonymous Sep 11, 2008

    I followed the service manual and disassembled my WD-62725 down to the V26 Chassis PWBs (Power Boards?). I inspected the PWB POWER circuit board (where the A/C comes into the TV) and the PWB SIGNAL circuit board after removing the heat shields [left side of TV when looking at the rear], as well as the lamp ballast [right side of the TV when looking at the rear]. Both the PWB SIGNAL and Lamp Ballast appeared fine w.r.t. capacitor bulge or leak. However, on the PWB POWER board, there were two Nichicon 3300uF 10V HD(M) series capacitors (105C rated) that were bulging at the top. Both seem to be leaking slightly.

    I googled all sorts of things to try and find a replacement board. The problem is, in the Service Manual (which you can find free online if you search enough), they identify the circuit board as PWB POWER on the disassembly instructions, page 12. But in the replacement part sheet on page 30, they call out different assy names (ASSY-PWB-FRONT, ASSY-PWB-CONTROL and ASSY-CHASSIS). I'm willing to replace a board, but not the entire chassis. I'm even willing to replace the capacitors if I can find a suitable replacement part.

    On another thread somebody suggested that any 105C rated PC mount 3300uF 16VDC capacitor would work, and work better than the 10V standard capacitor used in the MIT-WD series HD TVs.

    Hope this helps somebody...




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Fixityrsel is wrong.
1 The "Airflow message"is just a bad connection and very easily solved.Mitsubishi has a service bulletin out and will cover the repair for free. Your set may not even have the defective connectors.
Your set was manufactured in 2004..Call any authorized Mitsubishi

Capacitors are very easy to find! Any (105 degree) PC mount 3300uf@ 16VDC will work fine..and not bulge again..Higher Working voltage than the stock 10 VDC is what caused the problem with the caps.
Mouser electronic is one of hundreds of suppliers for those caps
Order online if you know for sure they are bad in your set.

Posted on Aug 14, 2008

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We're under a service plan and had the guy out today. Same symptoms. He replaced the lamp and it didn't work and then called Mitsubishi. They said it is probably a very common capacitor problem on the power supply board. If you open the back and take a look you are likely to see bulging caps. Parts C9A37 and C9A38. The caps are cheap if you can find them, but the parts are really hard to find right now so Best Buy is actually replacing these for people under service plans rather than fixing them. You probably ignored the "warning signs" like we did and didn't think much of it when the TV said there was something blocking the air flow and the lamp was going to shut off. We now know this is a sign that the caps are getting too hot and need to shut down to cool off... Good luck! BTW, our guy said the repair will run you about $200 if you can't do it yourself.

Posted on Aug 13, 2008


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SOURCE: Mitsubishi DLP - model #WD62725

you have mention that after 10-15 seconds T.V starts up, will you give total description of the T.V within that 10-15 seconds?

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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Mitsubishi DLP - model #WD62725

you have mention that after 10-15 seconds T.V starts up, will you give total description of the T.V within that 10-15 seconds?

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