This is a two drawer unit, the top drawer's lights don't turn on and the heat element remains on. Nothing will work. I unplugged it because the heat element won't turn off which means I can't use the lower unbit either. I have the unit without LCD, the kind that has a cusom panel
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The most logical explanation is the controller in top drawer has packed up or the power board located at the base of dishwasher housing (under bottom drawer) has partially packed up and stopped supplying power to the top drawer controller. But another explanation is that the thermal relay in the top drawer (located inside the heater element assembly has cut off. This stops power to the controller. This is the most expensive to fix as the entire heater element assembly has to be replaced as the thermal relay is not separately accessible. How you want to isolate the problem and fix it depends on how comfortable you are with fixing electrical and electronic systems. This is a very sofisticated dishwasher and a small mistake is irreversible. By the way you can open the drawer by forcing it open but keep in mind not to try to shut it firmly again until you restore the controller power. Otherwise the lid seal or actuator motors will be damaged. Whatever you do, make sure the mains power is turned off if you work on the dishwasher circuits.
These units are nothing but grief!! Problem sounds similar to my one, it caused me no end of problems from the time it was installed and don\'t bother calling F&P service coz it will cost you almost as much as a new dishwasher. They have an inherent prob with circuit board, even service tech (on the quiet) said they are bad.The best thing I did for mine was throw it on the scrap metal pile and bought myself a Meile, not one problem. its super quiet and designed to last 20 years. Use the bottom one till it completely craps itself (prob not long) and then buy a NON F&P one!!!
Unfortunately the power is distributed from the inside to the two drawers. You will have to address the cause of the problem in the top drawer. If you are good at electric repairs you could disconnect the power from the dishwasher power board itself, but this is not for the faint hearted (no offence). Might be helpful if you can provide a little details about the problem with top drawer. Generally if you are getting F1 message on the panel on bottom drawer and top drawer display is blank (ie no power), then the power board at the base of dishwasher is blown and needs to be replaced. Please clarify model number as the one you provided is for single drawer unit. Make sure the mains power is turned off when you work inside the diswasher.
I have an older dishwasher also and recently mywife also complained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I amtried in vain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installedthem in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also foundthat if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad...So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to makesure it is working... Here is a tip that will help you with the onlinebuying...
Dishwasher SprayArms not Spinning
The F1 error coming on top drawer when operating bottom drawer is due to the thermal fuse blowing up on the bottom drawer and shutting controller power.
The thermal fuse could have blown either as a normal component failure or heater over heated due to thermostat failure. In any case this can be repaired by replacing the whole heater assembly as all the parts are integrated.
This is at the underside of the drawer and will need a technician to replace unless you are very familiar with repairing electronic dishwashers. The part look like this.
The way you have described the onset of the F1 error is not due to flood switch. You can confirm that the lights on the bottom drawer are out even though the top drawer is showing F1 and beeping.
If problem was flood switch then both drawers would show F1.
Are you saying the lights are blank and when you press the start buttion nothing happens?
One reason the controller can shut the power is that the heater overload protection thermal resistor has opened. Unfortunately the only way to fix this is to replace the entire heater plate at the bottom of the drawer.
To confirm if the controller is operational or not, press Keylock and Start/ Pause button together for 5 sec (press Keylock first) and see if the Lights light up. If nothing happens then either the power has shutoff as mentioned above or controller is faulty.
Depending on your familiarity with such equipment you could try to replace and fix. I am not quite sure what the new model you mention is. I believe all DD603 models have power to the 2 drawers coming from the base board.
Hard to know what the problem is as the description is very sketchy. If the display on both drawers remains blank but the unit is working then the controllers in each unit are having a problem (very unlikely though). It is possible you are not getting any power on the unit. Try shifting the power plug to another socket.
Ok, this is a control fault that may be corrected by shutting the power off for 5 minutes. this will reset the chip set on the control board. plug the unit back into the socket after the 5 minute ait and check to see if the element is still on. If so, replace the control board.