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Whirlpool microwave thermal fuse replacement

I have a Whirlpool above range microwave. The model number is MH7140XFQ0. My wife was cooking last night, and it just stopped, and went blank. It's plugged in and the house fuses are fine, so I'm led to believe it's the thermal fuse on the microwave itself. Problem is, I can't find any directions online for how to remove it to replace it. I don't want to pay an appliance repair place $100 or more to come out when I can just buy a new one for $200, but I'd much rather just spend $12 for a new fuse and replace it myself. I found the exploded views of the part of the microwave where the fuse is, but that wasn't much help in actually removing the fuse itself. Am I on the right track? If so, can you guide me on where to look and what to do to replace said fuse? Thanks!

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If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

On this model, the fuse is located on a plate behind the control panel.

At our site, we now have a video available showing how to remove a typical control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

It may also be the thermostat located on the magnetron.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

Please reply back with an update if you still need help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Aug 18, 2008

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Our Whirlpool over the range microwave makes a clicking sound for a few seconds then shuts the microwave off. The microwave is unusable. The sound seems to be coming from the control panel.


If the cooling fan is not working, that would explain the shutdown problem. The function of the fan is to cool the magnetron down when it is warming or cooking the food, if the fan fails to run, the thermal fuse will detect heat rise causing a shutdown with in 5 seconds or more, the clicking suggest fan issues. I would recommend a whirlpool technician to go through the system.

Jan 27, 2011 | Whirlpool MH7140XF Microwave Oven

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I have a Whirlpool MH7140XFQ-0 Microwave and last night it stopped working with the screen showing F6. I unplugged it for over an hour and plugged it back in and it went right to F6. It tries to run if the...


"F6" on a Whirlpool microwave means you have a shorted cook relay on the control circuit board.

For model MH7140XFQ0 the control circuit board would be part number 4393919, which you can order from the Pros here for $132.23.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

Then you unplug the keypad (as per the photo below) take out the old board, then move the new circuit board into your frame.

34374fd.jpg

Some connectors on the relays may have a lock:

positivelock.jpg


Otherwise, we regularly repair these boards with our $39.95 nationwide service. Details are here.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

It may be the fuse, which is located in the upper area behind the control panel.


If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

(Don't be confused by the base or hood thermostat, which is on the floor of the chassis. It will read normally open).

The fuse and magnetron thermostat can be checked with out taking the oven down from the wall, but if you need to check the oven thermostat, you will need to pull it from the wall.

To help with that, you can download Whirlpool owner's manuals and installation instructions here.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

If you think the problem is on the control panel, we repair these nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid in most cases.

Feel free to contact me directly (and please remind me of your full model number) for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

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just did further testing...I stated incorrectly before, appears to be one/both relays for this light

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GE JVM1870 Spacemaker Microwave Fan Malfunctioning when Cooking


There are two different fans in this model, as with almost all over the range microwaves.

One is the hood vent exhaust fan, which you can turn on and off at will, and which should always be on when cooking on the stove top.

This fan does not automatically come on when you cook with the microwave.

The fan which should always be on (automatically) when you are microwaving is the internal magnetron cooling fan.

If the cooling fan fails, the magnetron can overheat and the thermal cutout (TCO) / thermostat will open, killing the power to the oven. Ideally, this protects the magnetron from being destroyed.

If the thermal device is a thermostat, it will reset when it cools down, and the oven will work.

If the thermal device is a true thermal fuse, it is a one-time device and if it blows, it will have to be replaced.

If your cooling fan is bad, it needs to be replaced before using the microwave.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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Disclaimer: I'm a DIYer, not a technician.

Our GE over-the-range microwave stopped producing heat yesterday while warming part of the T-giving feast. Everything else (fan, control panel, light) works fine.

After disassembly and testing last night, I discovered a defective "secondary door switch." Your Kenmore uses a similar switch (~$19 on-line), and that might be the problem. But it also could be other things, such as a bad thermal cut-out.

If you know anyone who's handy with a multimeter, most of the basic diagnostics seem to be pretty straightforward.

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Just so I understand, you replaced the fuse inside the oven? If so, I would suspect a bad thermostat attached to the magnetron. This device interrupts power when the unit gets too hot. I've included a representative photo. After so many years your magnetron may be bad, too. Once you get the oven working, if it cooks and doesn't trip the thermostat again, it may be okay. PLUS - It looks like this model has manual rotary controls. If so, it's common for those to develop bad contacts after so many years. I would consider that my third suspect. Those controls are called the thermostat (not to be confused with other part by that name that I discussed above) and the selector switch. One could easily be bad. You can check part prices at Sears online at http://www3.sears.com (the "3" is supposed to be there) Some other things that can cause a "dead" condition: - bad connections on the small circuit board where the fuse is mounted (if such a board is present) - bad connections in the wiring Good luck.

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