I have 8 gauge power wire with 60a fuse (reccomended) but when i turn the power on, the light on the amp turns on, and then fades while blinking, which means it goes into safe mode. Could the 60a fuse still be to big?

There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

Sometimes there is a fuse inside but they are usually thermal and reset when they cool. You said u blew a 60 amp fuse. Is that what the manuf reccomends? Check your remote turn on wire (blue) make sure u have power on the remote wire when you turn the radio on. only thing really left are the grounds

I would have suspected the ignition switch, but it sounds like you've replaced it. It is internal to the housing you described. The first thing to do is to actually check for power at the ignition switch. There are 2 connectors going to it. One provides power, the other sends out power when key is turned. Check for good 12V at both the larger red wires, they should be battery powered and live all the time. If you have power on them then turn the key to run, you should have power on the orange wires (ignition feeds). The large yellow wire should only have power when key is in crank position. If there is not 12V at the red wires all the time then likely you have a large (maxi fuse 60A) under the hood electrical center blown. It could also be a blown fusible link coming off the starter battery post that feeds the electrical center if the fuses are good but no power across them.

Fuse/Relay Location*Fuse Amp Rating* Description
1 60A** PJB 2 30A** BSM 3 20A** Not used (Spare)
4 30A** Rear defrost 5 40A** ABS (pump)
6 60A** Delayed accessory circuit breaker
7 20A** Power point #2 8 — Not used 9 20A** Power point #1
10 30A** ABS module (valves) 11 40A** PTEC
12 50A** Ignition relay/Starter relay
13 40A** Trailer tow battery, Trailer tow turn signals
14 10A* Foglamps 15 15A* Memory (KAPWR)
16 15A* Headlamp switch 17 20A* 4x4 (v-batt 2)
18 20A* 4x4 (v-batt 1) 19 20A** High beam relay
20 30A** Electric brake 21 30A** Front wiper motor
22 20A** Autolamp; Low beam 23 30A** Ignition switch
24 20A* Rear Fog Lamps 25 – Not used
26 15A* Fuel pump 27 20A* Trailer tow lamps
28 20A* Horn relay 29 60A** PJB 30 20A** Rear wiper motor
31 — Not used 32 — Not used 33 30A** Auxiliary blower motor 34 30A** Power seats, Adjustable pedals
35 20A** Rear power point 36 40A** Blower motor
37 15A* A/C clutch relay/Transmission

If the battery drain gauge is registering the "blinks" there is definitely a short between the two wires. As one signal is told to blink they both get power and split the power causing the dim lights. This extra load is enough to momentarily cause heating in the wires and raise the circuit resistance. I would look at the wires coming from the bulb and find where they meet. They may have fused together above a sharp edge or even the exhaust.

Power supply section is overloading probably because of audio power amp problem.
Paul

water ingress on top of fusebox above drivers footwell is common problem.

Does the amp continue to go into protection if you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals?

I fixed it. Believe it or not, it was a fuse. I looked at them all and they did not look blown. So I got mad and replaced the remote wire and the fuses. And when I put in the last fuse it was fine. Apparantly from diligent research, fuses can look ok but have issues with soldering problems. Thanks peeps.

The power antenna wire only supplies 12vdc when the radio is on. When CD or other sources are selected, the power antenna wire goes to 0vdc. The remote turn-on wire provides 12vdc whenever the head-unit is on. If your amps are powered on only when the radio is turned on, I would bet that you have the power antenna wire connected and not the remote turnon wire.