I replaced outer tie rod ends both ball joints front struts and got an wheel aliment and now when i turn left it clunks and pulls to the left when i turn right it clunks and pulls to the right

if this has a conventional front end(not front wheel drive) then there will be one on each outer tie rod end one on each inner tie rod end, both upper and lower ball joints on each side, idler arm and pitman arm. if its front wheel drive it will have a rack and pinion steering. there for there will be one on each outer tie rod end and one on each lower ball joint, if they have grease fittings. so conventional steering has 10 fittings total and rack and pinion has 4 total.

Check for bad wheel balance, struts, lower ball joints ( no upper joints) , outer tie rod ends, inner tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings, lower control arm bushings , and finally a wheel alignment ,you have some bad looseness in one or more of these front end parts. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

The top of the strut mount was not installed properly.

It could be several things. First check your shocks by pushing down on the bumper with your knee 3 quick times to make it bounce. It should come up and down once, stopping in the middle of the second up. If it moves any more than that the shocks or struts need replacing.

Then check your tie rod ends and ball joints. There are 4 tie rod ends on your vehicle. They are attached to the front wheel and the steering box. There is an outer one on the wheel and an inner one at the steering rack. Try to move them side to side or up and down. Any movement means they need to be replaced.

To check the ball joints, you will have to jack the wheel up so it is clear of the ground. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it in and out. If it moves, then have someone watch as you move it and see if the movement is at the bottom ball joint or the top one, if your car has an upper ball joint. Front wheel drive cars with spring/strut suspension don't have upper ball joints.

I would be inclined to suspect the tie rod ends as being your problem, but it could easily be multiple things so check them all. Hope this helps.

There are a few components that will cause a clunk such as yours.
Sway links and bushings, ball joint, strut mount, tie rod ends and lower control arm bushings.
If you recently purchased the car and it was checked over by a mechanic the most commonly missed item would be the control arm bushings.
I would suggest you take it to a front end specialist and have it looked over soon.
Hope this helps you.

KL

inner joints a plunging joints have problems acceleration jolts from a dead stop... the outer rezzepa joint clicks usually when turning thats the balls falling out trunion..... not usually clunking ... possible wheel bearings they are pressed in on front wheel drives... or even a tranny mount maybe ...it almost sounds like somethings loose ...its hard to diagnos online..srry i need more info about the symptoms...

here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

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Removal & Installation

1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
   
2. Raise the vehicle.
   
3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
   
4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
   
5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
   
6. Release the brakes.
   
7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
   
8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
   
9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
   
10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
    
11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.
    
    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
    
12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.
    
    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
    
13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.
    
    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
    
14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.
    
    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
    
15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
    

To install:

1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
   
2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
   
3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
   
   CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
   
4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
   
5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
   
6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
   
7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
   
8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
   
9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
   
10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
    
11. Lower the vehicle.
    
12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.
    

Its The Cv Joints Should Be At Its Worst When Turning.

Ball joint, tie rod end or upper strut bearing. CV joints? Pulling to the left may be an alignment problem with front or rear tires. Get a four wheel alignment.

cv joint