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Where can I get a glass 250v 15a glass fuse to replace in my Kenmore (LG) side by side Fridge's Power Control Board? Also, do I need slow blow or fast acting fuse?
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No need to buy a new main control board ! The problem is mainly from the fuse that soldered in the main control
board, go to buy a "125V 15A or 250V 15A" fuse ($5.00 a pack of 5 pcs),
cut the burnt fuse from the board, re-soldered the new fuse into the
board, the refrigerator work again. you save $80 for the labour cost of
the technician and $180 for the cost of a new main board.
If you have no lights or hear the motor running, I would check the house circuit breaker first and measure the voltage at the outlet. If that is within specs then the one thing that could cause your problem in the refrigerator is the power control board P/N: 6871JB2047A
Radio Shak had it. I just did the same thing with mine and figured id try and give it a go myself. Turned out, $20 at Radioshak for a solder gun, fuse holder, new fuse and an hour of my time was worth it.
The difference between a "Fast acting" and "Slow burn" (also known as Time-Delay fuse) is one is for a resistive load, and the other an inductive load. Resistive loads are like lights and circuit boards, where the amperage is relatively constant. Inductive loads (time-delay) are motors, things that require a large in-rush current to get moving like the compressor on your fridge. Hope this helps.
T = time delay (slow blow)
6.3A = 6.3 Amperes maximum load
H = HRC - high rupture current (as you specified a ceramic fuse)
250V = 250V AC rated
other letters you may see
FF = ultra fast blow
F = fast blow
M = medium blow
TT = very slow blow
L = low blow current
H = high blow current (glass package)
S = sand filled
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