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I have a Sony Air 7 radio. The volume control is faulty, it only works at full volume. I have taken the back off the radio but can't access the area around the volume button.

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  • Anonymous Aug 22, 2008

    My problem is exactly the same. If you find a solution please let me know!

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HI I HAVE FIXED THE SAME FAULT ON MY SONY SCANNER BUT NOT FOR THE FAINT HEARTED!. YOU WILL HAVE TO UNSOLDER AND EXTRACT THE CONTROL AS THE TRACK SPRING LEAVES HAVE BECOME WEAK AND ARE NOT TOUCHING THE TRACK PROPERLY.CAREFULLY TAKE APART THE CONTOL CLEAN ANY RESIDUE ON THE TRACK AND CONTACT SPRINGS THEN RE ASSEMBLE AFTER SLIGHTLY BENDING THE CONTACT LEGS TO IMPROVE PRESSURE ON THE TRACK. BEST OF LUCK I HAVE GOT A SPARE WHICH MIGHT FIT YOUR MODEL. CHRIS

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

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Brian here well I found the sony air 8 in a box,i got it years ago and just refound it..i love this thing.
can someone tell me the best ways to use it and what the best way to pick up sounds from a long way away,
please email me as im not on my computer, glassblower4u@yahoo.com

Posted on Nov 07, 2008

Using something like CRC's CO contact cleaner (http://www.crc.co.nz/item_prod.asp?pid=184), spray down near the volume control with the supplied extension tube. About 2mls should do it. It's real tricky to get to the inside of the volume control on this device but somewhere close should do the trick.

Problem is caused by dust inside the potentiometer. I have the same unit that had the same problem, this sorted the problem for me. It won't be a permanent fix but it should but you a few more years.

NZ Electronics Tech

Posted on Oct 11, 2008

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2 Answers

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For a 20 year old radio, the volume and balance is almost certainly controlled by a potentiometer that has input into one leg of the fixed resistance, and the other leg (of the fixed resistance) is grounded. The movable center tap is the output to the amplifier - and its position controls the volume to that channel. If the ground leg becomes disconnected (broken wire, or a cold solder joint, or even a break in the resistor within the body of the potentiometer) then instead of "dividing" the volume, it simply provides a slight resistance inline - short answer: It goes full volume.
You can try running the control full range back and forth, and even just the old time "slap it" approach, to see if you get any static or change. If you do, that pretty well confirms the diagnosis. [If not, it just means the break is not close to touching - still almost certainly the right answer though.]
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