Will not pump water out after washing clothes

Symptom Check
Click on underlined items for further information Washer does not work and makes no noise

• Check that the washer is plugged in securely
• Check the circuit breaker or fuse box
• Test the outlet for current
• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Test the water level switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch
• Test the water inlet valve
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the motor

Washer does not work but it does make noise

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the water inlet valve
• Test the motor

No water is entering the wash tub
- or no hot water
- or no cold water

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the water supply hoses for kinks
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water level switch
• Test the water temperature switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the water inlet valve

The water fills the wash tub too slowly

• Check that the water valves are turned on full
• Check the water pressure at the tap
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water inlet valve

The tub does not fill with enough water

• Test the water level switch
• Check that the drain hose is positioned roughly as high as the top of the inner tub

The water overflows the wash tub

• Test the timer control
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the air tube for damage
• Test the water inlet valve

Water drains out during the wash or rinse cycle

• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar
• Test the timer control

Wrong temperature of water is used

• Water supply hoses may be reversed
• Hot or cold water supply valve may be turned off
• Water supply hose may be kinked
• Check water inlet valve

Water drains out while it is filling

• Check the drain hose, it should be at least as high as the top of the wash tub, about 38 inches.
• The drain hose must sit loosely in the house drain. Do not seal the air gap around the drain hose or a siphon will occur.
• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar

Water drips into the wash tub when the washer is off

• Replace the water inlet valve

Water does not drain out of the wash tub

• Inspect the drain hose for kinks
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch (some models)
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect the motor coupler

Water is leaking onto the ground

• Inspect the water supply connections
• Inspect the drain hose
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect outer tub for cracks or corrosion
• Inspect the tub seal
• Inspect the tub bearing

Agitator does not move

• Test the lid switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the pump coupling
• Test the water level switch

Agitator movement is weak or moves in only one direction

• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the pump coupling

Drum does not spin

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Clothes are too wet after spin cycle This may be a spin problem or a drain problem
Drain:

• Make sure the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for a partial blockage
• Inspect the water pump

Spin:

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Cycle does not advance

• If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance while the washer is in a spin cycle, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance during the rinse cycle, check whether water has filled the tub, if not, it is likely cold water related. Check the cold water supply valve, check the supply hose for kinks, check the filter screen and check the water inlet valve

Burning or electrical smell

• Unplug the washer
• Locate the source of the odor then read the instructions in the related section

Foul or stale odor coming from washer or clothes

• Check that the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages
• Check pump for blockages
• Check for build up of soap in the outer tub
• Check for article of clothing stuck in the outer tub

Noisy or vibrates too much

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump for a blockage
• Inspect the coupling
• Inspect the transmission
• Adjust the drive belt tension
• Check the motor bearings
• Check the drum brakes

Goes out of balance too often

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump

Clothing is damaged

• Inspect agitator for cracks or rough spots
• Inspect for rust spots

Since you've already checked the pump, hoses and motor, here are some additional issues to look at:

1. Faulty timer: Does your machine fill with water and begin agitating, but the cycle never advances far enough to allow the water to drain? The timer that controls the cycles may be broken. Arrange for washing machine repair service.

2. Worn or loose belts: Are clothes still soaked at the end of a wash, even though the washing machine appears to go through the spin and drain cycles? The timer that controls the cycles may be broken. This is a job for the pros.

3. Faulty or jammed internal impeller on pump: When the spin cycle starts, do you hear a humming noise? The internal impeller that moves the water through the drain pump may be faulty or jammed. A grinding or grating sound is almost always an indication of a coin, button or other object colliding with the impeller. Have a washing machine repair expert determine if the impeller is jammed and can be cleared, or if the pump needs to be replaced.

For more troubleshooting steps, see Washing machine won't drain. I hope this helps!

Water will not drain from machine
1.kinked or clogged hose----clean drain hose
2.pump does not run----readjust & tighten pump-drive mechanism
3.suds lock----remove suds,, add cold water
4.faulty transfer valve---replace
5.defective timer----replace
6.loose belt---adjust belt


No agitation
1. Motor failure---repair or replace motor
2.faulty timer contacts---replace timer
3.faulty transmission---repair or replace
4.defective control solenoid---replace
5.broken linkage---repair or replace linkage
6.faulty water level switch---replace switch

The timer will always advance to the next program if the machine does not fully drain. There is ALWAYS a spin when draining the water out, there is only one pump and one motor. The waterlogged laundry maybe telling the timer that there is still water in the tub. Put the machine on "Spin" and cheat the lid switch into thinking that the lid is closed. Use a clothes peg or wide ended screwdriver and see if there really is a spin....

if it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

a lot of GE washers use a separate motor/pump assembly that is supposted to drain the tank before it spins. That motor is not very strong and can stall if it gets a little clogged with hair or lint or cloth threads. My dad's did that from tassels from a bed spread that fell off in the wash. You can take the front cover off with a knife blade to push the lock clips in so the cover pulls off.

when you do that you can remove the hoses to the pump and pull the clogged material out.

hi, faulty motor or start capacitor for motor or faulty timer contacts. should be check and replace.

Hi..

If your washing machine wont drain, you need to check this following:

• Inspect the drain hose for kinks
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch (some models)
• Inspect the water pump
  
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect the motor coupler

If it wont spin check this

• Test the lid switch
  
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
  
• Inspect the motor coupler
  
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port.

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it.

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

It doesn't spin If your washer won't spin, check these:


It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.



Thanks !!!

Regards

PCmania

Basic Washer Problems
No fill:
Bad water valve
kinked hoses
unpaid water bill faulty electronics. Overfill:
trash in water level switch tube
bad water valve
bad water level switch faulty electronics. Washes but don't spin:
bad lid switch
bad drive coupling or belt
bad motor faulty electronics Spins pumps but don't wash:
bad timer
bad motor
bad luck faulty electronics. Leaks:
bad hoses
bad pump
bad tub gasket faulty electronics. Fills washes but never advances:
bad lid switch
locked up pump
bad motor
bad timer faulty electronics. Goes through complete cycle but clothes soaking wet:
bad belt
bad pump
bad thrust bearing faulty electronics*. *electronics in appliances ****. My opinion.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If your washer won't spin, check these:

It doesn't pump or spin If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:

• If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.



• If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

It pumps, but doesn't spin If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:

• The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.



• The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.



• A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)



• The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.



• The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.



• The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.



• The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.

It spins only with the lid closed For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.