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Tensioner The belt is intact looks good, I am not sure what the tensioner would look like, is it something that tightens the belt?

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Yes it keeps the belt tight so it can turn the drum. its like a pulley that keeps the tension on the belt so that the tub can spin etc.is the belt tight now or is it loose?

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

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1 Answer

How replace a/c belt


Did something seize up and break the belt? You might need to deal with a bigger problem before you just loosen up the tensioner bolt and put a new belt on. Loosen up the tensioner bolt, place the correct belt on, making sure you run it correctly around all the pulleys, then borrow (at OReillys or a similar) the long handled tool, you use to put tension back on the whole pulley system and tighten down the tension bolt. If it was me, I'd go to YouTube to look at a couple of DIY videos on the subject.

Feb 23, 2015 | 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

1 Answer

I have a JD LA110 2007 engine runs fine was cutting lawn and it just coasted to a stop and won't move now. I did smell a burnt smell chked belts look ok.


Sounds like you may have a belt that popped loose. While the belts may look intact, they can sometimes jump out of their groove. Check to make sure the drive belt is routed properly, and that it is tight when the clutch/brake pedal is out (in the drive position). If the belt is routed properly, and the belt is not tight in with the pedal in drive, chances are your tension pulley assembly may have broken, or something else is amiss in the drive pulleys. Also make sure to try all the gears.

Sep 16, 2013 | John Deere Garden

1 Answer

Need to get timing belt on 2001 ford ranger 3.2l 4cyc


There is no 3.2 engine in the Ranger so for inforamtion I will assume you mean a 2.3 liter. Coutesy of a Ford Ranger owners website....

How-to: 1995 2.3L Timing Belt Replacement. I did my first timing belt on my 95 Ranger this weekend. It was a mild pain in the ****, having done it once it would not be too bad the next time if there is a next time. The factory timing belt was still on the truck after 190,000 miles.

My first mistake was trying to get the power steering pump off the bracket. The screws that hold the pump to the bracket are just a little longer than they should be so you have to remove the whole bracket with the pump attached which means you have to drain the pump and all that BS and disconnect all the hoses. I found this out after damaging the power steering pulley. My advice is that if you ever have to replace a pump grind the bolts heads off so you can remove them without removing the pulley which is a major pain. This is an engineering oversight and it really sounds like something GM would do. So REMOVE THE AC/Power steering pump with the bracket. Also make sure that the Teflon gasket on the high pressure hose is intact before you put the hose back on. This gasket is $4 at the Ford dealer. It is a washer about the size of a dime. The gasket rides on the shoulder of the hose fitting nut.

I would replace my thermostat at this time and maybe your water pump. I left my still intact factory pump because I have had problems with the Chinese aftermarket **** going bad after 10k miles. If the factory pump does not leak leave it alone. The next problem was the timing belt tensioner. It took me a while to figure out how to put a lever on it to take the tension off of it. You can get one in there between the tension spring and the roller if you move the AC compressor out of the way (it is always in the way). Make sure you align the timing marks first before removing the old belt. Put the new belt on release the tensioner adjustment bolt so the belt tightens then tighten the bolt again. Put the flywheel pulley back. Now turn the engine over a few times to take up any slack. Now loosen the adjustment bolt again to take out any remaining slack and then tighten the bolts and put her back together.

I would remove the radiator before starting. You are going to need it out of there anyway so you can get the crank pulley off with an impact wrench and maybe a flywheel puller.

1. Remove and Drain Radiator
2. Remove Fan and Shroud
3. Remove Serpent Belt
4. Remove AC Compressor bracket and disconnect PWR steering pump.
5. Leave the AC compressor in and move it around to get to stuff.
6. Remove timing belt cover.
7. Alight timing marks on all three shafts.
8. Remove timing belt. This may or may not require you to take the tension off the tensioner.
9. Loosen tensioner adjuster bolt and retract tensioner with lever between spring and roller and then tighten adjuster nut.
10. Install new belt and release tensioner. Tighten tensioner adjuster bolt.
11. Install crank pulley
12. Crank or hand turn engine a few revs (clockwise) then re-tension belt.
13. Put her back together.

Jul 02, 2012 | 1995 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

My altinater belt snapped, how do I replace it? Is this a dificult job to do on my own?


Not very difficult. Typically, it involves:

Loosening a locking nut on the tensioner for the belt. This allows the belt tensioner to be loosened to put a new belt on.

Finding the belt tensioner (some are automatic, spring loaded, others you loosen\tighten manually through a bolt) and loosening it so the belt fits loosely on the pulleys. If I were you, I would look at the pulleys without the belt and see if you can determine which is the tensioner.

Install new belt.

Tension it to spec. (Depends which vehicle you have.) If you have doubts, just tighten it so it doesn't flex more than an inch when pressed on the longest span.

Tighten locking nut.

Try running the car with the new belt. If you hear screeching, either loosen or tighten it until it goes away. Also make sure the electronics are all good, and that nothing is surging (as if losing power) since the alternator does charge your battery.

Jul 30, 2011 | Mazda 626 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I own a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant 2.4L ES. When i turn my car on the Auxiliary belt makes a squealing noise for a bit then it stops. But it doesnt always make this noise, and it has something to do with...


hi there, here is what i have found for you, i hope it helps:
  • Look at where the drive belts are located on your Mitsubishi Galant. Depending on models, you may need to jack up the vehicle to access the bolts for the belts.

  • Find the bolt assembly for the belt. This bolt structure will be on or near the main component that the belt serves. Look at all of the pulleys around which the belt winds, and you will find a bolt system to adjust tension. For an alternator belt, the bolt system is by the alternator. For a power steering belt, look near the power steering pump.
  • Find the lock nut that holds the long adjustment bolt in place and use your wrench to loosen it. This is the bolt the loosens the belt tension so that you can remove it.
  • Turn the adjustment bolt. Turning the adjustment bolt moves the component either toward the engine in order to loosen belt tension, or away from the engine in order to tighten belt tension.
  • Slip off the old belt and install the new one, once the belt tension is released. Make sure the belt is correctly seated on all pulleys.
  • Turn the adjustment bolt the other way to bring the component away from the engine and add belt tension. Test the belt for correct tension by pressing on it and checking deflection.
  • Tighten the adjustment lock bolt and the pivot bolt, when the belt has the right tension.
  • cheers

    iain

    Apr 27, 2011 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant

    1 Answer

    How to tighten the a/c compressor belt on my 99 gmc sierra


    The belt on that A/C compressor should be automatically tightened by the belt tensioner. If the belt is not pulled tight by the tensioner then you probably need to go get a new one, or even snag one from the local junkyard. On the other hand, if some work has been done recently where the belt was removed. There is a chance that the tensioner may have been taken off and put back on incorrectly (I've seen it before) or maybe even something blocking it from returning to it's proper position. A test to see if the tensioner is any good is to just grab onto it (while the truck is NOT running please) and give it a tug. The spring inside is quite strong and should be difficult to move. if it will move under the pressure of your hand then you probably need a new one. Another possibility is that if the belt was taken off, it wasn't put back on correctly. With all the idlers and pulleys and such in there it's easy enough to miss getting it over one of them, and that could definitely allow enough slack for the belt to slip. There should be a belt diagram under the hood that shows the path of the belt. Take a look and just make sure it's sitting exactly where it should be.

    Aug 20, 2010 | 1999 GMC Sierra

    2 Answers

    Hi we have a kia sedona 2000year and 2.9 diesel, exec. auto. it came with half the engine in the boot, we have skimed the head and rebuilt it just the new cam belt just wont tighten enough we have fully...


    the cam belt should have a little slack in it,, about 1/2 inch over its longest run, its not like a fan belt witch should be tight, but check the idler bearing are not worn out,,and i do hope this is a new belt for this car,,,if your using the old belt,,,dont! fit a new one on it or it could brake on you, and that would be another engine rebuild on your hands,,,
    ,

    Mar 07, 2010 | 2003 Kia Sedona

    2 Answers

    How do i tighten the belt on the engine


    there is no way of manually tightening the belt. if the belt is loose you need to look at the tensioner and see if it is sitting at an angle. if it is, it needs to be replaced. this item is on the more left side of the engine as you are looking at it and will be about 6-7" long with a 3/8" hole near the end so you can use a ratchet pull away from the belt. if its squeeling youre hearing first check for glaze and cracking. next check for writing on the belt and you should be able to read it like holding a book. if it is upside down to you, take it off and turn it around. this definately works.

    Jan 07, 2010 | 1997 GMC Savana

    2 Answers

    Cambelt change on uno turbo


    By now you probably have the cam/timing belt changed on the vehicle... Here goes anyway: I changed the belt on my 1372cc (identical engine - except for the Turbo and a few odds & ends) just over a week ago by following this simple process:

    Disconnect the battery negative terminal
    Remove the timing belt cover
    Loosen the alternator drive belt nut, tilt towards engine and remove the belt
    Remove the crankshaft pulley nut (size 36) - do this by selecting top gear and have an assistant press hard on the brake pedal - remove the pulley -the timing belt is now exposed.
    Using paint or tippex, simply mark the camshaft sprocket as it lies with the inside timing belt cover, do the same on the crankshaft sprocket & the auxiliary shaft sprocket.
    Loosen the tensioner nut - remove the timing belt.
    Check that all pulleys are still in alignment according to your markings and refit the new belt by starting on the crankshaft sprocket (the thin white line across the new belt must align with the factory marking on the crankshaft pulley) and over the auxiliary sprocket and finally over the camshaft sprocket - tension the belt with the tensioner and tighten the tensioner nut.
    Rotate the engine clockwise by hand making sure the camshaft sprocket rotates twice, check the tension on the belt and make sure the tensioner nut is fully tightened and the belt is secure.
    Refit the crankshaft pulley, making sure the nut is tightened and refit the alternator belt, timing cover and reconnect the battery.

    The same procedure is applicable on the 999cc/1108cc FIRE models as well as the 1301cc Turbo.

    Good luck.


    Apr 14, 2009 | Fiat 124 Cars & Trucks

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