Question about Lite On Laars Lite 2 Heaters: 250,000BTU MV Heater

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Pilot light on pool heater

Hi - i saw you post on your pool heater's pilot light not staying lit. I have the same problem - were you able to resolve?

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  • pool-elcheap May 22, 2009

    I used uksoccer07's troubleshooting process successfully (607mv on pilot generator, then bypassed all safety switches and shorted around them) to confirm that it was either a loose connection among the various safety switches, or corrosion causing a loss of voltage. Once I jumped across all the safety switches the main valve came on like normal, then I just added each switch until I found that the thermostat must be shorting/corroded too as it sometimes works/sometimes not. This 250k heater is gas and 26+ years old and might be best teledyne ever built ;) I was sure not liking having to buy a new cheap $1000 heater..maybe this will make it another year!

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One possible problem to that is a bad pilot generator, not a real common problem but often happens. To test the pilot generator, unhook the to wires that comes from the pilot assembly and hook to the gas valve. Wedge a screwdriver or something in the knob that you push down when regularly lighting the pilot so that gas will continue to flow to the pilot, if you dont hold it down it wont stay lit. Use a multimeter set on DC voltage and put prongs on the ends of the wires. If it is above 600 then it is good, a little bit below will still allow it to work, the pilot only needs like 100 millivolts to stay lit. If it is somewhere down around 500 or lower, then it should be replaced. Another cause, if the pilot generator is not bad, is that a switch in the circuit could be acting up and drawing all of the millivolts from the source before it gets back to the gas valve, in turn the pilot is not supplied with proper millivoltage to stay lit. This usually is the case if you use your heater and it works for a while but then shuts off, and the pilot goes off with it. You can test each switch without removing wires. Each switch should use 5-10 millivolts max. Put one prong on a ground, or just stick it in the ground, the guys i work with dont believe me that it works. And test one side of the switch with the other prong and then the other side to measure the millivolt drop across the switch. If all switches are good. Bad news, probably a gas valve issue. Although take the time to inspect the connections made at the gas valve and all other switches for that matter. A little rust, a little corrosion, can eat up millivoltage very quickly and this can be fix by using some sand paper or emory cloth to clean the terminals. Also check for loose connections, if you can wiggle the wire where it is connecting to the terminal, take it off and crimp it down a little tighter with some channel locks or something. Millivolt heaters are a pain in the but, that is why everybody makes and sells electronic ignition ones now.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

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