Question about Hitachi 53FDX20B 53" Rear Projection Television

2 Answers

High voltage want stay on

Replaced modules and resistors at heat sink. turned on tv and it just beeped for a long time with two of the green leds flashing in the back. the high voltage finally came on and pushed magic focus and everything was going ok for a short time and then the high voltage went off and the beeping and flashing started again.

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  • Anonymous Mar 14, 2014

    my akai led tv high voltage short cricute fuse r brek

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2 Answers

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  • Hitachi Master
  • 19,396 Answers

/thest all component on board for continuity, an insignificant blown capacitor can give you this kind of troubles.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • Ginko
    Ginko Aug 10, 2008

    Well,....he told us, nice placeholder. Apologies to the user.

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  • Master
  • 1,894 Answers

Can you tell us what was the problem earlier and what all did you replace to solve it??


Posted on Aug 10, 2008

  • dewan nafees ahmed Aug 11, 2008

    am sorry. my question was a bit wrong. i wanted to ask you

    for which problem you replaced modules and resistors at heat sink?? and who did this.. a tech or yourself..

    thank you


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1 Answer

Picture shaped like a bowtie, (shrinking)


Hello, This is your classic convergence Amplifier IC problem. Here is a way to deal with it. These are generic instrustions: 1) Get the schematic/service manual for this TV (You will need it because it contains the part numbers and component values you will need for replacement) 2) On the schematic/service manual locate the convergence amplifiers (STK392-110, 120, 150) and the biasing resistors (Write the resistor values down from the schematic) 3) Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover to expose the electronic circuitry. 4) Using the schematic/service manual find the physical location of the two convergence amplifiers (Usually attached to a big metal silver in color heat sink) (Basically it will look like two big black six sided flat modules with a lot of pins on the bottom (18-22 to be exact)). 5) After finding the heat sink and amplifiers remove the screws or the tension bar holding the amplifiers in place. 6) Using a soldering iron and a de-soldering device (either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering wick) remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and biasing resistors that protrude from the solder side of the circuit board. (Take into mind that you may have to remove the board in order to do this, use the instructions in the schematic/service manual to do this, and make sure you mark everything you remove to make sure you have a guide as to how to put it back) 7) After removing the solder from the pins off the amplifiers and the biasing resistors, remove the resistors making a list of the value, part number, and location on the board (all of this should be in the schematic/service manual). Then remove the two convergence amplifier modules taking care so as not to damage the circuit board. NOTE: The heat sink compound (the white goopy stuff) may have hardened and caused the module to stick to the heat sink, you will have to gently pry the module away from the heat sink, I have used a light application of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the heat sink paste. 8) Once the modules are loose from the heat sink, you can gradually remove them from the circuit board. 9) Clean the heat sink off by using the alcohol and a heavy paper towel (remove all of the heat sink paste, and yes this is messy) At this point you have removed the two convergence amplifier modules and the biasing resistors and cleaned the heat sink. Now you will have to use your schematic/service manual to find the part locations, values and numbers you will need to replace the old parts I suggest replacing the biasing resistors first. 1) Sort out the resistors you will need and as stated in the schematic/service manual and replace them according to the schematic/service manual locations and part numbers. 2) Solder the components (resistors) in place making sure not to short out anything in the process. 3) Apply heat sink paste to the metal side of the modules one at a time and the put the modules into the circuit board lining up the screw holes of the modules with the screw holes in the heat sink, use the removed screws or tension bar to hold the modules down once in place in the circuit board and on the heat sink. 4) Solder the pins of both amplifier modules to the circuit board, taking care not to short out anything. 5) Reinstall the board to the TV, reconnect all cables removed (DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING) If all went well the convergence amps should be working, and you will need to realign the convergence of your TV, I suggest using the AUTO Convergence feature of your TV (Use the instructions in the schematic/service manual). All should be good now. Now these instructions are generic in nature but can be use for a number of Models of Projection TVs. In addition to this also make sure your Yoke transformers on your CRTs are functioning as they should, check the voltages applied to them. I hope this helps, Thank you, Shuttle83 http://www.electron-age-technologies-llc.com

Jun 10, 2009 | JVC AV-56WP30 56" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Convergence problem


Hello nursecmp,

You have a convergence amplifier problem. Now you have two choices: 1) fix it yourself or 2) Get it fix by a qualified TV repair person. Granted if you choose the latter, you will spend about $200-$500 depending on the shop. So as you stated you would want to do this yourself. OK, I will not get into the problems with this, rather I'll give you the basic procedure and the you can search fixya for a more in depth solution (I'll show you how to do this after the basic instruction on how to replace the Convergence Amplifiers (I rarely give these instructions) Here goes:

1) Get the schematic/service manual for this TV (You will need it because it contains the part numbers and component values you will need for replacement)

2) On the schematic/service manual locate the convergence amplifiers (STK392-110, 120, 150) and the biasing resistors (Write the resistor values down from the schematic)

3) Unplug the TV and remove the rear cover to expose the electronic circuitry.

4) Using the schematic/service manual find the physical location of the two convergence amplifiers (Usually attached to a big metal silver in color heat sink) (Basically it will look like two big black six sided flat modules with a lot of pins on the bottom (18-22 to be exact)).

5) After finding the heat sink and amplifiers remove the screws or the tension bar holding the amplifiers in place.

6) Using a soldering iron and a de-soldering device (either a de-soldering pump or de-soldering wick) remove the solder from the pins of the amplifiers and biasing resistors that protrude from the solder side of the circuit board. (Take into mind that you may have to remove the board in order to do this, use the instructions in the schematic/service manual to do this, and make sure you mark everything you remove to make sure you have a guide as to how to put it back)

7) After removing the solder from the pins off the amplifiers and the biasing resistors, remove the resistors making a list of the value, part number, and location on the board (all of this should be in the schematic/service manual). Then remove the two convergence amplifier modules taking care so as not to damage the circuit board. NOTE: The heat sink compound (the white goopy stuff) may have hardened and caused the module to stick to the heat sink, you will have to gently pry the module away from the heat sink, I have used a light application of isopropyl alcohol to dissolve the heat sink paste.

8) Once the modules are loose from the heat sink, you can gradually remove them from the circuit board.

9) Clean the heat sink off by using the alcohol and a heavy paper towel (remove all of the heat sink paste, and yes this is messy)

At this point you have removed the two convergence amplifier modules and the biasing resistors and cleaned the heat sink.

Now you will have to use your schematic/service manual to find the part locations, values and numbers you will need to replace the old parts I suggest replacing the biasing resistors first.

1) Sort out the resistors you will need and as stated in the schematic/service manual and replace them according to the schematic/service manual locations and part numbers.

2) Solder the components (resistors) in place making sure not to short out anything in the process.

3) Apply heat sink paste to the metal side of the modules one at a time and the put the modules into the circuit board lining up the screw holes of the modules with the screw holes in the heat sink, use the removed screws or tension bar to hold the modules down once in place in the circuit board and on the heat sink.

4) Solder the pins of both amplifier modules to the circuit board, taking care not to short out anything.

5) Reinstall the board to the TV, reconnect all cables removed (DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING)


If all went well the convergence amps should be working, and you will need to realign the convergence of your TV, I suggest using the AUTO Convergence feature of your TV (Use the instructions in the schematic/service manual).

All should be good now.

Now these instructions are generic in nature but can be use for a number of Models of Projection TVs.

Jul 18, 2008 | Philips Magnavox 51MP392H Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Power convergence board on RCA HD52W59


Hello renning,

You may not have to buy a new board. It just might be the Convergence Amplifiers that have gone bad. You may just want to replace them first and then see if it corrects your problem before getting the whole board. The convergence amplifiers are easily identified they are tow big black modules attached to a big metal frame called a heat sync, normally it will be located on the right rear section of the TV set looking at it from the back or it would be located in the middle rear of the set looking at it from the rear. In any even look for two big six sided black components with 21-22 pins, now this is the important parts some electronics parts stores sell what are called Convergence Kits (Yes this problem is so common that they have put kits together to repair this issue), they contain the two modules and the biasing resistors needed to properly do the job. You will have to order the kit for your make and model of TV if they do not have a kit, you will have to use a schematic diagram to find the values of the biasing resistors needed. Once you have the modules and the biasing resistors, you will have to de-solder the modules and the associated resistors and replace them with the ones you purchased. You will also need to detach the modules from the heat sink clean the heat sink (with alcohol) and then attach the new modules (with a new application of heat sink paste, which is the white stuff the you removed with the alcohol) with the screws you removed to detach the modules. Once the modules and biasing resistors are installed you will need to turn on the TV and then perform a convergence setup, your TV most likely will have an auto convergence alignment setup feature on the setup menu , use this to do the convergence alignment setup (check your users manual for help in doing this). The cost for this repair will be as follows:

2 STK392-1XX series Convergence Amplifiers $4.00-$15.00 USD Total $8.00 - $30.00 USD

9-10 biasing resistors $5.00-$10.00 USD (multipack) $15.00 USD

Solder $5.00 USD

Soldering Iron $20.00 USD

Silicone Heat sink paste $6.00 USD

de-soldering brade $5.00

The cost of materials will be about $81.00 on the high end.

The cost of a new board will be about $150.00 - $200.00 depending on the vendor.

You can buy replacement boards from a manufacture approved vendor outlet, go to the manufacture's site find support and parts they should have a listing of supported vendors. I would suggest calling the vendor and ordering from the phone asking them to send you an RMA for the part (board) this protect you from having them asses charges without delivery of product.

You will need the schematic diagram to help you install it schematics can be purchased at http://www.servicemanuals.net
for about $19.00 USD.

I hope this helps,

Thank you,

Shuttle83

Jul 15, 2008 | RCA HD52W59 HDTV Projection Television

1 Answer

Color issue


Replace 120k resistor on the blue video output module. Resistor is located next to the blue video output transistor (has heat sink). If you replace it with a 1/2 watt carbon type, it will probably never happen again. I recomend the same resistor on the red and green video boards at the same time.

Jun 17, 2008 | Toshiba 57H83 57" Rear Projection HDTV

1 Answer

Samsung sp42w5hfx rear projection tv


You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of wood to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

Mar 06, 2008 | Samsung PCL545R 54" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Panasonic pt47wx49 taking out board A to replace IC on heat sink


You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board (not sure what you mean by white clips, but you should be able to take out just the convergence board) and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of plastic to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

Feb 25, 2008 | Panasonic PT-53WX42 53" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Hitachi 51SWX20B's screen has 3d effect


You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of wood to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

Feb 15, 2008 | Hitachi 51SWX20B 51" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Can u help me


You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of wood to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

Feb 07, 2008 | Hitachi 50UX57B 50" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

What is wrong with my tv


You have a problem with the STK convergence modules. They're on the center circuit board attached to an aluminum heat sink that's about 8" long and 6" tall. You may be able to recreate the problem (hour glass effect) by gently moving the heat sink (which the modules are connected to). This gives the hour glass effect on the picture and the advanced convergence screen. This is an indication that the modules pins aren't solidly connected (meaning soldered) properly. Remove the circuit board and clean the old solder off & resolder the modules pins to the circuit board reconnected the board and then retest by again pushing on the heat sink. The "factory" job was good enough for 3-4 years but the heat (and these modules do create a lot of heat) and stress created from repeated use eventually takes it's toll, weakens the pin connections and our problem occurs. take the appropriate cautions working around the high voltage of the set & use a non-conducting piece of wood to push the heat sink when doing tests.
If soldering doesn't help, then the modules have died and need replacing. Don't buy the $10 cheap ones. Most of them have an upgraded version that is stronger. Also look for any burned resistors in the vicinity of the modules.
Best of luck, hope ya fix it.

Feb 07, 2008 | Hitachi 50UX57B 50" Rear Projection...

2 Answers

Will not stay on


RED light is protect circuit = do not disable !
Look for C702 near flyback transformer - might be hidden in
glue = check it = if shorted, replace 102K / 2KV with 3KV =
Sony part # 1-161-754-00 and replace E994 pico fuse.....T.

Nov 08, 2007 | Hitachi 60UX54B/55K 60" Rear Projection...

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