In my attempt to re-connect the ground wire to back of the amp, it grazed the positive connection causing a big spark. After re-connecting the bass control light is on but moving the controller has no affect. Have I messed up the controller or worse yet have I screwed up something inside the amp? The bass sound appears to be locked up at the minimum.
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Re: Bass control stopped working
On rockford amps, the bass control knob needs to be connected to get the maximum output (+18 db gain i believe). If you did this to the power wires, then yes, you may have at least damaged the bass control knob. Try replacing this to see if you get all of your gain back. If not, then you have damaged something inside the amp...maybe a capacitor or power supply inside. If that's the case, you'll need to get the amp looked at by an electronics repair technician or local stereo shop.
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The basic steps to set up a car amplifier are these:
1. Disconnect the car battery's negative terminal before doing ANY electrical work on your vehicle. Failing to do so can damage your equipment or cause injury to your person.
2. Determine where you are going to mount your amplifier. This can be in the trunk, on the back of a seat, under a seat, etc. Pick a place with good airflow, otherwise your amp may overheat while playing.
3. Run the ground wire from the mount location to a ground location. The ground location should be a location where you can securely connect the cable to the vehicle chassis, and the connection should be metal-to-metal, without any paint in between.
4. Run the speaker cables to the amp. This means any cables coming directly from subwoofers as well as RCA cables coming from the head unit. Don't forget the remote wire from the head unit.
5. Run the positive (live) power wire directly from the vehicle battery to the amp. You will most likely have to drill through the vehicle firewall in order to get the cable through.
6. Connect the ground wire to the ground location.
7. Connect the speaker wires and remote wire to the amp. Make sure these cables are connected on each end to the proper inputs.
8. Connect the ground wire to the amp.
9. Insert the fuse into the in-line fuse on the live power cable, within 2 feet (24 inches) of the positive terminal connection.If your cable didn't come with an in-line fuse, you will have to buy a fuse separately, strip the power cable, cut it, and insert the fuse in the specified location.
10. Connect the power wire to the amp first, and then to the battery.
11. Power up your system, and play some music!
Try reversed the connection, hang the positive supply together with the ground.
Then connect the ground first before the positive supply.
If the spark is still there then you are confirmed that you have a short on the unit.
Fixing is not DIY because it is quite technical.
I rather suggest to send it to a repair shop to isolate the shorted parts.
A series of test will be perform to locate where the short come from.
Please rate my advice.
Thanks for using fixya...
Could be that you have a partially roasted(blown) coil on one of your subs which will function- but will keep tripping your amp.You can check that out just by using a different set of subs to listen to and by the process of elimination if the problem goes away then you know where the problem is at.Also check your gains you might be riding the gain a little high which causes distortion which causes heat(FAST) which will cause the amp to shut down completely or some amps will decrease output in a programmed attempt to save itself.turn the bass boost down to half if you even use it at all- that too can cause massive distortion in the amp itself,meaning only that if you have the bass boost on your deck turned up and then you turn the boost up on your amp the sound signal is then WAYYY distorted which will cause a thermal shutdown too. Last thing is to make sure that your subs arent running below 2 ohms because i believe that particular amp is designed to put out about 900 watts at 2 ohms.good luck
You did not say whether or not you checked the wiring going to your subs. Many times, a shorted or grounded speaker wire will cause an amp to fail. And if the amp powers up OK with the subs disconnected, I'd suspect one or more of the wires.
Many amps will go into protect mode if one of the speaker wires is shorted or grounded, or if the voice coil(s) are defective. Try disconnecting the speaker wires one at a time and see if the amp still goes into protect upon power up. Likewise, some amps will go into protect if one of the inputs is grounding out. Again, to troubleshoot, disconnect them one at a time and try the amp. Next, make sure that the amp itself is not grounding. Most amps need to be mounted to a nonconductive surface. If the case contacts the frame of the vehicle, it can cause a problem. If the problem is not in the speaker wires or the input cables, the amp case is not contacting the vehicle frame, and you have checked your power, ground and turn-on leads, then the amp itself is probably faulty.
probably your power is too short, increase your gauge wire, and your ground wire of the amplifier has to be shortly as possible, and the positive has to be enough to support peak power, you can also put a big capacitor on the positive wire to give some more power while the bass peak.
Sounds like maybe you are not getting enough power to your amp.
It sounds like you have a pretty powerful amp and it could be you don't
have a large enough cable going back to your amp. If you have
access to a volt meter then you could take a reading of your "12volt"
power connection at the amp while stopped and amp running to see if you
do indeed have 12 volts or better. If it is getting down to 11 or
11.5 volts then you will need to improve that. I have a saying
that when you have a huge amp you must wire it as if you are trying to
power your cars starter motor from the trunk and wire
accordingly. And that means your ground connection too.
Don't forget the ground connection from the battery to the car's
chassis. Maybe this will help. Good luck.