Pfs22sisss the temperature control displays quit working. unplug unit from the wall, plug back in and the displays work for a while then go out. also the condenser fan isn't running. when the compressor is running shouldn't it be running as well?

Sounds like a control computer board problem. Some times unplugging and leaving it for about 30 seconds and plugging it back in can recover from the fault.

bring all the controls to zero..unplug the unit for 10 minutes..plug it back in..and then bring the controls up to full range..it is equivalent to having an engine that is flooded..if this is not working to resolve this, then the compressor or the capacitor on it, are shot.

highly annoying issue error code E1. After hours
of fan operation, the error code E1 will appear on the seven segment
LED temperature display. This error code is intended as a reminder for
the user to clean the air filter. However, because the procedure
outlined in the user manual does not clear this error code as
indicated, and the appliance has a nonvolatile memory that cannot be
reset by simply unplugging it, the user of the appliance will become
mightily frustrated, standing in potentially sweltering heat watching
the appliance repeatedly shut down in the midst of operation with the
"E1" display flashing.

Believe it or not, that is what it does: if you unplug it to remove the
"E1" code from the display, and plug it back in and re-start it, it
will simply run for anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours, and
then merrily shut down again with the same flashing "E1" code.

So you will come home to a hot bedroom, living room, etc. unexpectedly,
and you will NOT be amused, as I was not.

Many people at this point, having put the manual under the canary or
some such, will simply return the unit and never buy another Sharp air
conditioner. But for the tech-savvy and search-adept, I offer the
following procedure to clear the nefarious E1 indication, and obtain

1. Power down the air conditioner using the "power" button on the front
panel.
2. Unplug the air conditioner from the wall socket.
3. Hold the front panel "power" button down and plug the air
conditioner in. Continue to hold the power button down as the machine
goes through a brief test sequence (fan & compressor each come on
briefly, etc). There is a "beep" sound at the end of the test sequence,
and the machine will be off. At this point, you can release the power
button.
4. Unplug the air conditioner.
5. Plug the air conditioner back in.
6. Congratulations! You should now be able to operate the air
conditioner normally for another 720 hours, but only if you followed
the instructions above EXACTLY.
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The comfort control center requires 12 VDC . If a fuse blew that feeds 12 VDC to control box at ceiling for some reason in your panel when unplugged accidentally, that would cause the remote/wall and control box at ceiling not to communicate.

set the controls to off. then , unplug the unit from the wall for 15 minutes. this will allow the control processor to completely reset itself . after fifteen minutes, plug it in and reset your desired temperatures on your controller. if this does not work, I would suggest you consult the manufacturer or your owner's manual for more information on programming the temperature controller.

The F30 error code indicates that the electronic oven control board detects an "open" oven temperature sensor probe circuit.
This is usually caused by a failed oven temperature sensor probe.

Replacing this component will likely fix your problem.

You can order this part from www.searspartsdirect.com website.

If you replace this part yourself, be sure that you unplug the range to disconnect electrical power before accessing this component.

On some models, you can replace the probe by removing the screws that mount this component to the inside back wall of the oven.
Carefully pull the probe inside the oven cavity until you encounter the wire harness disconnect plug.
Unplug the sensor and replace it with the new one. Mount the new probe on the back wall of the oven.

On some models, you have to remove the lower back oven panel to access the sensor probe.

If you replace the probe and still have this problem, you will need to unplug the range and measure the resistance through the violet wires that plug into the control board (this is where the sensor probe circuit is connected to the control board).
If the resistance through the oven temperature sensor probe circuit is normal (about 1100 ohms at room temperature) then the electronic oven control board will need to be replaced.


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Is there anything obstructing the fan area, ice build up ? It is normal for your freezer to get warm if evap fan is not working, it is essential for it to work :) A defrost cycle should kick on a timer or as needed (adaptive) and there should not be excessive frost buildup that it blocks your evap fan. I would have suggested you unplug your refrigerator for about 10 minutes and see if that resets your control board - if not, then you will need service - either replacing motor assembly or a faulty control board.

1. The thermostat may temporarily lose calibration due to temperature changes resulting in an E01 error message on the display. Repeat the following steps to reset the unit.
2. 1. Unplug the unit from the wall socket for approximately 10 seconds.


3. 2. Plug the unit back into the wall socket.


4. 3. Press the POWER button once. Within one second, press the COOK button once. The unit should now be rese

Most likely it is the Main Control Board also called the Motherboard. It is located on the rear of the unit behind the smaller axcess panel. Becareful with the wiring if you attempt to change the board. There is a slight possibilty that it is the dispay board, but it is unlikely.

Talked to the nice lady at West Bend. Apparently, the problem comes up when the unit is "cold"... whatever that means. She said to plug it in, wait a second, then push the power button, then "cook" immediately. No pause. Don't hold either button. I tried it, it worked on mine.

Apparently, this a feature for some reason.