Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat
I have replaced the heating element and thermostat with new ones but the heating element does not heat up. I have 6 wires: 2 to the heating element; 2 to the thermostat and 2 to another part that came with the thermostat but I do not know what it is called. I have power to all six leads. Is it possible the wires are crossed and that is why the heating element is not getting hot? What else could it be?
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Re: Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat
Believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd
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Find a volt-ohm meter you can use. Unplug the dryer and test the socket on the wall or on the floor for current. If If you have a 3 pronged socket, the two slanted slots should have 110 volts each, and the "L'' shaped slot is your ground. If you have a 4 pronged socket, the two straight slots are 110 volts each, and the "L" shaped and the round slots are grounded. If you do not have 110 volts showing on both slots, you likely have a blown circuit-breaker to reset at your fuse box.
Depending on the year of the dryer, you have the following things to check inside the back of your dryer. Wiring, for burnt or broken wires, the heating element for a broken wire, and 2,3,4, or 5 thermostats. Unplug your dryer and remove the back so you can see all the wires and the above parts. One at a time, remove the wires from each thermostat and see if the thermostst is blown. You can tell by setting the volt-ohm meter to ohm's resistance, that's the "Infinity" sign. Check the heating element the same way. If the thermostat and heating element are good, the needle will go up on the meter. If one is bad, the needle on the meter will remain motionless. Each of the thermostats and the heating element are removeable, and replaceable. Be blessed.
It doesn't necessarily mean the heating element is busted when an electric dryer stops heating. The heating circuit is not just composed solely by the heating element, it is composed by the thermal cut-off, high-limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, motor centrifugal switch, and the timer. The first thing to look at when an electric dryer stops heating is the thermal cut-off. It cuts power to the heating element when it blows most likely due to the failure of the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off must be replaced, together with the high-limit thermostat, if found open. Click on the link below for the detailed instructions in troubleshooting this problem. Troubleshooting
Whirlpool and Whirlpool-Made Electric Dryers (Filter on Top and with
Removable Back Panel) Running But Not Heating
The problem is most likely the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat. The thermal cut-off blows when the high-limit thermostat fails and since these parts are wired in series with the heating element, power to the heating element is therefore terminated. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off and if it reads open, replace it along with the high-limit thermostat.
You can bypass the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat for troubleshooting purposes. Join together the wires of each part and insulate it properly then reconnect power. The two components indeed need to be replaced if the dryer heats up. If not and still no power to the heating element, check the continuity of the heating circuit. Check the continuity/resistance of the heating element if there's power to its terminals but doesn't heat. Replace the heating element if it reads open.
Let us know if you need further advice. Just indicate the exact model number of the dryer for accurate troubleshooting tips.
You probably have a bad thermal cut-off . This is the small thermostat , located at the top of the element housing . This " thermostat " should read infinate resistance ( no resistance ) . You can put the 2 wires togather , and see if heat comes on . pt # 3399848 . Both thermostats , should read 0 resistance . They are normally closed . The thermal cut-off , will not reset itself , if open . This is a safety t-stat , for when dryer gets too hot , and will have to be replaced .
Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.
Make sure that both poles of your circuit are live - An electric dryer uses 220 volts to the heating element, but taps into only one pole (110 volt) for the motor that spins the drum. Check your circuit breaker to make sure that neither pole has tripped.
If all of the components are reading ok then you need a timer. Touch your 2 leads together. 0 ohms rght. That means you have a complete circuit.If you get the 0 reading then the element must be otay. Bad timer. Take that fancy meater of yours and atttach one of them leads to the timer leg marked RH. Yank the wire off the terminal beore you test. Move the timer around. You should get the famous 0 reading along the way. If you don't then that means you have the bad timer.
The model number you provided suggests that the lint screen is on top of the dryer, right? If so, the heating element can be accessed from behind the dryer by removing the rear panel. Of course, you should know this already since you stated you've already replaced the thermostat and fuse. The heating element is located on the right-hand side as you are looking at the dryer from the rear. There are TWO components on the heater housing. One is the high limit thermostat, one is a thermal cut-out. Are these the components you mentioned replacing? BOTH should read a short (0 ohms) when measuring resistance with the dryer turned off. If you haven't replaced both of them, double check to see if they are both good. The high limit thermostat will be located closest to the ceramic heater connection. The thermal cut-out will be mounted to the heater box. Perform a resistance check of the heating element as well. Measure across the leads of the heating element at the ceramic terminal connection. It should read between 8 - 13 ohms if good. If your readings prove that the heater is bad, it can be removed by using a 5/16" hex drive. The heating element should slide out the bottom of the heater box housing. Sometimes removing the heater box, and then removing the heating element is easier.
Your dryer is also equipped with an electronic cycle control board under the control panel that goes bad from time to time. This also may affect the dryer heating circuits. Inspect the small circuit board for any obvious signs of burned components.
I hope this information is helpful to you. If I'm wrong about your dryer configuration, please post back with comments, so I can give you proper instructions.
CAUTION: Make sure you UNPLUG the dryer prior to making any resistance checks. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off.
PS I hope I'm not insulting your intelligence, here. As a rule, I tell everyone this information because some are not as savvy as others.
Wedge, one red wire to the right terminal of the heating element. The safety thermostat should of had a piggy back that fits over the left side terminal of the element and connected to one side of the safety thermostat. Other red to other side of safety thermostat, Orange from the timer (smaller connector) to the respective connection on jumper. Catriver.