I cut the chain thread by mistake, how do i get it back? Am new to this

Please expand your description. What is it doing if not chaining? Is the thread tangling, breaking? Is the thread just pulling straight through and not forming any stitches?

Suggest removing all the threads. (Cut the threads just below the thread tree, raise the presser foot, and pull all the threads DOWN--NEVER UP!)

May be helpful to install brand new needles.
ALWAYS RAISE the presser foot when threading.
Rethread from the beginning--be sure to thread IN THE CORRECT ORDER!)
Verify the thread path is correct for each thread.
Give each thread an extra little tug when going from the thread tree down through the tension disk to completely seat the thread.
To start out, set the tension disks to the midway point.

..

I try not to pull the threads when removing my fabric from the serger. Instead when the fabric has cleared the needles, continue to sew a chain of about 5-6 inches, then simply cut it with scissors leaving part of the chain attached to the fabric and the rest of the chain attached to the machine.

Is the eye on the looper itself coming unthreaded each time this happens? I can't imagine how it would unless the eye itself is damaged. Are you chaining off at the end of the seam each time you stitch? If there is a chain of several inches then the looper should not be able to unthread.

Only thing I can think of is "are you raising the pressure foot and cutting the chain close to the foot at the end of each seam perhaps"? If so, you don't do this with a serger, you just chain off then cut the chain with thread snips or pull a good length of thread chain back in front of the cutting blade to sever it.

Maybe take a look at some of Nancy Zieman's videos on You Tube or some of the other serger videos there; there is lots of good information and sergers are much easier to learn visually.


If you think that there is definitely something wrong with the machine, you could always take it to your nearest Brother dealership and ask them to test sew on it, if it faults for them then they may be able to diagnose the cause quickly.

Has it ever chained off since you bought it? If you purchased it second hand it is possible that the timing of the loopers is out and this will prevent a chain from forming.

However, I'll go through general overlocker/serger troubleshooting for threading up. The critical things are to thread it exactly as the diagram shows, some sergers have a diagram inside the front looper cover so its easy to refer to when you are working on the machine. Or use the manual diagram. There is a sequence you need to follow in threading up, usually upper looper, lower looper, then the needles. This is important. Then you pull all four threads under the raised pressure foot, lower the pressure foot, and start to stitch and hopefully a chain forms. If you need to change a thread you can knot on a new colour, turn the tension to zero, then pull through the new thread. Pull the knot right through the looper eyes but you will need to cut the knot out and thread the needles with the new colour once you get there. Then turn tension back to the normal setting (5 usually) and again pull all threads under the foot.

The timing of the two loopers to the needles is critical to a stitch forming though so if you have tried everything and aren't getting a result; then perhaps its time to take it to a service centre, get it checked out and if it works fine for them, ask for a quick demo of threading up, then do it yourself with the demonstrator watching.

Overlockers are very different to sewing machines and there is a learning curve but once mastered, they are so quick and give a great finish.

no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

How frustrating, I've tried to find a manual on this model so I can see how you make the change to the thread finger on the throad but couldn't see one. So, I'll go through the set up for 3 thread rolled hem on mine, it probably won't be identical but it might help.

First, remove thread from left needle and remove the left needle from the holder leaving just the right hand needle in place. Most sergers have two seperate needle screws so this can be done but as you mentioned, recheck again that the right needle is right up into the housing as high as it will go. I presume you are using a fresh smaller size needle, especially if this is on a fine or lightweight woven like organza, I'd put in a size 70. If a mid weight then size 80.

Now there should be a thread finger on the foot you change with your screwdriver. Or a little switch you flick so that the throat plate is a different shape to form the narrow seam. Your manual should have this step.

Now if you have some, put wooly overlock thread into your top looper, I cut the thread about 10 inches above the tension dial, put the new spool on, knot it to the existing thread tail, turn tension to zero and pull it through and through the looper eye.

At this point, you should have the two looper threads loose, lift the pressure foot and pull these two threads under the foot and out the back. Turn tension back to about 3 on top looper and tighten up lower looper to 5 or 6 and leave needle at 5.

Adjust blade to cut quite wide, ie wind it to the right side. Now thread the right needle and pull this thread out the back too. Lower the pressure foot, introduce a piece of fabric in under the foot, press the pedal and start trimming and chaining off.

You should have a chain stitch happening now - if not, recheck your threading, particularly the needle, sometimes the thread looks like its in the needle eye but is hooking around the looper. If you still can't get any joy, then it is possible that the timing is just slightly out and this is affecting this stitch. You could try setting up for a normal three thread seam and see if this chains okay.

If you are getting a chain happening now, then adjust down the stitch length to make it denser so it is covering the fabric and check the underside, adjusting top and bottom looper tensions so the thread is enclosing the fabric end rolling to the underside and covering any little fibres.

I hope this is of some help - however, if it still isn't giving you a chain, it could be the timing is out in which case, unfortunately service time.

These machines have a carbon fiber hook that get burrs or cuts in them from breaking needles or bent needles. Take out the hook (4 black screws on the black plate that surround the bobbin case) Make sure you don't drop or loose the SPECIAL washers that usually stay in the black plate. Check for any burrs or cuts on the hook. If you see any, you can sand them down with about a 500 grit sand paper, 600 would be better. Make sure you line up the tab on the back of the hook with the groove in the driver (the gray round piece). When you put the screws back in tighten them a little at a time. If you notice the screws have a shoulder on them and you can easily mistake them for being tight when there not. Make sure you turn off the machine and back on to reset the tension.

Hi My name is Karyn my email [email protected]
I can help you thread the Elna over locker. Write to me at my email. Once threaded with 4 dirfferent colours find a scrap of medium weight fabric and sew few inches/ 10 cm or so, it is then easy to see which threads appear loose and which appear tight. For the actual overlocked edge the two threads ought to weave together and meet eachother on the cut edge of the fabric.tighten on colour and loosed the other until they meet on the edge. with the outside needle and the (under) 'arm' below which make the 'chain' seem you will also see using diffrerent coloured threads, if the chain is loose tighten the tension for that thread - usually the 'arm' tension. For any further help email me as I may not find my way back to this site.
If you can help me I'm currently looking for a Blade for an Elna MO 104 over locker.

Are you sure you're not trying to thread through the 'chain' port? I've done this a few times, almost pulling my hair out trying to figure out why the thread wouldn't go through. Then realized this simple mistake on my part.