Washer will fill up with water and pump water out, but will not agitate or spin. During spin cycle, if you lift up the lid you can hear it slow down like something is spinning; however, it is not making the basket spin.
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Your load is out of balance.
If you have a heavy item, spread it around the tub to balance the load.
It is normal for the tub to shake during the spin cycle. The washer has a safety feature, if it is too badly out of balance it will shut itself down and sound an alarm.
The traditional top-loader is more comfortable to load and cheaper to buy. High efficiency washers in top-load or front-load models are much more expensive but are water and energy savers, with front-load models having the best energy ratings. Front-load washers have a better spin which leaves less water in the load causing less drying time. High-efficiency models require low-sudsing HE detergent due to low water levels and they require a little more care. They also have more cycles and convenience features than traditional top-loaders. Warranty periods generally are a year regardless of washer style.
It sounds like the water pump on the dish washer has gone out. A dish
washer works (much like a clothes washer) by filling up the washer with a
set amount of water, then through circulation, pumps the water up
through the various spray nozzels. If the water pump is worn and not
making enough pressure, the spray won't get the job done. Depending
upon make/model, it may be cheaper to replace the water pump.
Run an empty dishwasher load with a bowl of white
vinegar on the bottom shelf. As the dishwasher runs the cycle, the
vinegar is slowly disbursed and cleans the dishwasher.
Bad water fill valve. (the part the hose screws onto at the back of the machine) The hot one is seperate from the cold fill valve, so you will need to determine which is not working: ie allowing water to enter machine when not on. (cold has several solonoid coils, the hot only has one) To get to the valves, If this is a front control model, remove the screws from the bottom side of the plastic part on the back side of the washer top, then stand in front of the machine and use the palms of your hands to sharply push back on the sides of the washer's top. It will move back about one and a half inches, then you can lift it off. If you have a rear control unit, you have to remove the 4 screws holding the soap dispenser in, unhook the dispenser from the washer top, and use a putty knife to release the spring clips (2) at the seam where the washer top meets the washer's front panel, then you can swing the top up and back.
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If it doesn't spin or pump, it could be that
your pump is seized or something is stuck in it. The agitator is operated by a
different motor. Turn OFF the power. and remove the front vertical panel by
inserting a drywall knife in a the top right about 4" in from edge at the
joint 1" down from the top, push the clip back to release that corner, get
another knife and do the same to the left top corner, the pull the top of the
front panel and swing towards you, then lift off and remove. Discount the
two hoses to the pump, one from the drum the other that goes to the back.
Be ready for a considerable amount of water to come gushing out, use a hose to
direct to a floor drain. Check to see if something is stuck in the pump
or the hoses, remove it. Check to be sure the impeller spins. If
you found something restricting the flow or pump, remove it and re
assemble. If the impeller won't spin easily, then you need a new pump.
Remove blockage in the pump. Re-assemble and test.
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician.
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
You did nothing to cause this! Things wear out! So is life! Sounds like the coupling between the transmission and the agitator is broken!
Only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses.
How old is the washer?Sounds old!
If the appliance is 10 years old or more you it may not be advisable to put good money into bad! New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!! Water,Electric and detergent! And put money back in your pocket! The new appliance will pay for itself in only a few years!
You will be fine Bless You ngafm PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF