Question about Philips HTS3450 System

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Buzzing/Squeal HTS3450 I figured it was a capacitor issue...it only happens when it has been off for awhile. If I have no soldering experience, would it be more cost efficient to return to Philips and spend $100 on their out-of-warranty replacement? I will get a whole new system...thanks.

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You don't have to worry,the cost is less because the problem is minimal. The capacitor is cost $5 only and little resoldering works,maybe $100 all in all..

Hope this may help;

Regards,
VOTIT

Posted on Aug 09, 2008

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Hi Gerhodes. The answer above is correct with one exception. The reason this has been found to be such a problem with the Phillips HTS 3450/37 model is due to the fact that parts positions numbered "C987" and "C989" are not powerful enough . If you take the "Black backplate" off (the one that the otherside actually shows outside when asembled. Right about where the plate was removed between the "Metal Wall" as it resembles and the "Main Power Conductors" which are covered by the metal top plate and wrapped in yellow or some other color tape. So, as you see that area, at the back are 4 capacitors. Two are small and neither of those two are the same size as each other or the other two in that area. There are two capacitors of those 4 that are set in a diagonal position from each other, They are the same size as each other. Those are the ones that you want to replace. They 470uF/25v. What creates the issue is that these capacitors are not large enough to handle the power needed. So, when you replace it you want the equivalent of a 470uF/35v to supply enough power. Once you replace the weaker ones with the more powerful capacitors ensuring to solder on the opposite side of plate (green side), you should be good to go.
Good Luck,
cJager

Jan 11, 2012 | Philips HTS3450 System

1 Answer

I am having the same problem mine made the clicking sounds and now won't make any sound. I took it apart and located the capacitors. How do you change them/is it difficult? (capitol.hills@hotmail.com) I...


You have to have soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast!

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1 Answer

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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1 Answer

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

Jun 09, 2008 | Philips HTS3450 System

1 Answer

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As I found somewhere on the internet; there are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #: 272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. Make sure you match the polarity properly when replacing. Your unit will be as good as new and will proibably last forever now.

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2 Answers

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

Apr 20, 2008 | Philips HTS3450 System

3 Answers

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

Mar 17, 2008 | Philips HTS3450 System

2 Answers

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

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1 Answer

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

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1 Answer

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There are two 470uF/25V capacitors on the power supply board in the sub-woofer that are the cause of buzzing, crackling and then eventually no sound. Go to Radio Shack and buy two Catalog #272-1030 470uF/35V capacitors and change them out. They are in the middle of the Power Supply PCB and are close to the long flat aluminum heatsink. As far as installation instructions go; you have to have some soldering experience, first. You will also need some type of de-soldering device, be it a solder ****** or solder wick to remove the caps. Make note of the polarity before removing. Then it is just a matter of popping the new ones in (they are slightly larger than the originals so they might not go all the way down flush with the PCB) and soldering them back in. Make sure you do not make any solder shorts or your system will be toast! Your unit will be as good as new and will probably last forever now.

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