JVC TH-C30 will not play sound. Receiver lights up and appears to be playing radio or CD, but no sound. Noticed power indicator light on sub comes on briefly when first powered up, but then goes out within a couple of seconds. Took cover off of sub and found 3 fuses, all of which are good. Took cover off of receiver, fuse was good there too. If I unplug the cable running from the receiver to the sub and plug it back in the power indicator light on the sub will again light back up and go back out within a couple of seconds. I hear a relay switching when the light goes on and off. I've only had this unit a couple of years and haven't used it but 3-4 times Any help would be appreciated. Lankford
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Possible that the connection to the AUX does not activate if you are using RCA inputs. Connect the DVD using the optical cable or the coaxial link and it must play better with surround and subwoofer in DTS.
That cable not only carries audio but it also powers the sub and other channel amplifers. Even if we could supply the pin-outs for the channels I'm not sure what we could do to provide subwoofer power. We're talking about a major rework.
This is a highly proprietary design, meaning it's really not very adaptable to normal spec audio equipment.
There's a flat-fee repair service for the receiver ($99.95, free return shipping):
On the bottom board is an electrolytic capacitor (C975) that might have failed. The top will be convex (bulged out). Since this is in the power supply, the unit will not work. Also: Check resistor R4843 and diode D4709 for charring on the board (indicates extreme heat). I have been trying to find the value of that resistor and so far no luck. Replacing the cap brought the set to life, but there is still a problem since the sound will cut off momentarily randomly. The receiver unit is at fault, not the sub unit. So I could use some help as well!! Good luck.
Check your formatting on the DVD recorder, you need to finalize the disk to be playable on "any" player. That should solve the issue. Your JVC is looking for specific code as it reads the disc, when it's missing or not understood by your JVC it will either stop play or skip over it's interperated missing info. Hope this helps
sharazanct I had the same problem and posted here many months ago without any success. Just today, believe it or not, I decided i would replace the screws in the top cover and try it one last time. I don't know why, but it now works fine.???? My original problem was my receiver would light up and appeared to be working but I would get no sound out of the sub or speakers. I noticed at the time when I would first turn the receiver on the green indicator light on the front of the sub would light for a couple of seconds and then go out and would get no sound. Today the sub light lit and stayed on and I'm therefore able to hear sound as if everything was normal. I wish I knew exactly what I did, unfortunately I don't. If you have everything back together you might try unplugging the receiver and sub for some amount of time and come back and try it again. Good Luck!
you may want to re check all your connections.
are you plgged into a power bar or directly into a wall socket.
also you may have a defective power supply on the system . you can also check this website out it is free to join and you can download manuals and get help http://audio.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/jvc/jvc_th_thm505.html
I have a TH-C30. I had the same problem where the unit just stopped working - no standby light and no recognition of power at all. After checking this forum and another, I opened the unit, found the ceramic fuse where the power comes in and went to Radio Shack. They have a T1AL250V fuse pack that is a 1 amp, 250 volt, 5 X 20 mm SLOW BLOW glass fuse which is a better fuse for this common problem. Their RS number is 270-1063 and a pack of 4 costs about $3. Put new fuse in and the problem was solved.
The repair took minutes - 3 screws on the back and two screws on each side. Lift the cover from the back (it is slip-hinged on the front) and replace the ceramic fuse. It slips out with a little help and the new one snaps in place.