Tractor will not pull. Replaced drive belt with no success. Ant suggestions?

Most are sealed. Is your drive belt ok?

Make sure you routed the drive belt correctly there might be an idler pulley you missed, make sure the belt is firmly on the trans axle, if so, put the rear end up on blocks and see if the wheels turn then, if they do put pressure against both rear wheels and see if you can stop them. If these wheels are on keyed axles and one key shears it wont drive because the drive wheel is the one that turns the easiest. so pull the wheel and check for a missing or sheared key. Replace key for an easy fix.

Sounds to me that the belt has stretched,to a point that it slips. Most drive belts,on a riding mower hasn't any adjustments,so the way to repair this problem is, to purchase a new belt. Hope this information helps. B. Locke

check for missing pressure spring go to PartsTreeRepairClinic they may have a video

When the timing belt breaks the pistons still go up and down but unfortunately the valves are not getting out of the way of the pistons which results in bent valve stems. Replacing the belt without replacing the valves is only half a job and it will not start because there will be no compression in the cylinders.. You will have to pull the head and fix the valves first.

is the release lever on the rear of the tractor in the position to push it around?

What brand of mower? You most likely have a broken return spring on the drive system.

Bleed the air out of the transmission. Pull the lever at the rear of the garden tractor and disengage the transmission. Then fire it up and press forward pedal for ten seconds, then reverse for ten seconds. Do this a total of three times, then re-engage the transmission. I had the problem you did, but after reading you had questionable success changing the belt, I read the freaking manual and saw that you should do this when it's brand new. I figured it couldn't hurt, and voila, I could pull inclines again and go much faster.

I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).

The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.

I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.

I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.

NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.

There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.

The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.

This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.

These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.

I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.

What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.

Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.

Good Luck...
Rayko

Check the fluid level in the transmission. If the fluid level is low, the trans will act as if it's slipping.