Question about Heating & Cooling
My in wall reverse cycle airconditioner stopped working today. It tripped the circuit breaker. When I turned it back on the fan works but the compressor does not turn on. It is not producing warm air.
The unit is an older model, either a CW-20700R or CW-29700R (hard to read). Is it worth fixing or should I get a new one?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check your wiring between the contactor and compressor for a short to ground, or check the compressor windings for short to ground.
With the Tstat off, the contactor should be open so the only way for the compressor to be trying to do anything is if the 110 volts from the unbroken side are traveling through the compressor to ground. Since 110v is not enough to run it, the overload is kicking it out, cooling off, and repeating the cycle. When you kick on the Tstat, the contactor is supplying voltage directly to ground without going through the resistence of the compressor windings and kicking the breaker.
Post back and let me know what you find.
Posted on Nov 20, 2007
The compressor motor , once warm is grounding out due to wear and is going bad.Have the compressor replace while it is still clean is cheeper and easier that doing it after a burn out,which will eventually happen,if the compressor is tripping the brreaker as I suspect..
Posted on May 10, 2009
Hi, dealing with these ductless split systems on a daily basis, I can say you have checked some of the things I would have wanted you to check, which is good on you're part.Blowing Room Temp. air in both heating and cooling indicate that the compressor is not running even though the outdoor condenser fan is on.There are several things that could cause this. You have a compressor run capacitor that starts the compressor, but I am thinking on you're unit, it has a dual capacitor that runs the compressor and fan together. Fan is on, so I will rule this out.These units are notorious for leaking freon as the Liquid line and suction lines are not brazed, they are put together with connectors that tend to leak over time. If it is low enough on Refrigerant gas, the compressor will shut off and stay off on low pressure. This unit has a low pressure switch that has normally closed contacts, that opens and stops the compressor from any damage which in turn, you will have no cooling or heating.Do this for me, turn the unit on in cooling, lower T-stat way down so outdoor unit comes on. Go to the out door unit and where the elect. wiring and lines go into unit you will see to copper lines. The largest of the 2 lines is the low or suction line.Wrap you're hand around it and it should be nice and cold. If it is warm, just touch the smaller line, it should be rather warmer, almost hot.If both lines are of normal temp. you are either out of freon or the compressor isn't running.You can remove panel to get to it and put your hand on it to see if it is on. If the lines were of normal temp. and the compressor is not on, more than likely you have lost the charge.Look it over, the wiring to see if you see anything burned or connections burned off and so on. You can check the 3 wires going into the compressor by turning off the power at breaker and removing the cap covering wires just to make sure these wires are intact. sometimes one will get hot from power and burn off. If you see this problem, it would be something you could fix.If all looks good, go back to the copper lines and being this is a Heat-Pump, you should have 3 fittings where we install our gauges to check and fill systems with freon. Look for one that is on the unit itself and remove the plastic cap.Don't be alarmed if you do as nothing will come out.If you look inside the valve, and you see a Schrader core, you can depress it with a nail or something small, just enough to see if it has a lot of pressure in it.If very little or none, the system is out of freon. You will have to call a tech out to find leak and evacuate and re-charge system.I wanted to give you many things to check so you and I would know what the problem is, a process of elimination. If you have a lot of pressure, then more then likely you have a faulty compressor. If you feel that you would rather not check the electrical or depress the Schrader, I fully understand.You can at least check the temp. of the lines and listen to see if the compressor is running, and if it is with warm lines it is still low on freon.Please keep me informed, and again the long explanation was for you to understand more about you're system operation. Sincerely, and best of luck,
Posted on Nov 23, 2009
The first thing I would check is the outdoor unit coil and see if it is restricted(dirty). If that is the case then you can wash it off with water(make sure you shut the power off to the unit first). If the outdoor coil is restricted and has little air flow thru it ,it can't get rid of the heat from the space and the compressor will draw over amperage and trip the breaker.
The next thing to check is if the outdoor fan is running. If the fan doesn't run it is the same as the restricted coil, it can't get rid of the heat from the coil. Check these things first then we can go from there! Thanks!!
Posted on Nov 24, 2009
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The circuit breaker may be tripping because of a fault with the dryer or it may be a fault with the circuit breaker being weak.
From the description you give the circuit breakers trip frequently.
I'd suggest you first try selecting the no heat air fluff cycle and run it to see if the breaker trips. If the circuit breaker doesn't trip in air fluff then there is likely a short in the heating element.
With a clamp-on amp meter you can read the amp draw of the dryer when it is heating. With the motor and element both working you would see approximately 25-26 amperes being drawn. The breaker is rated at 30 amps. If the breaker trips and only 26 amps are being drawn then the breaker is the problem.
Try the air fluff cycle first and see if the breaker will trip. Then with additional details I may be able to help you further.
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