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Water heater pilot light

I have a Reliance self cleaning gas 808. The directions for re-lighting the pilot light are on the tank itself but no diagram as to WHERE the pilot light is located! I took the cover off & got down on the floor but can't see it. Any ideas how I can find it or where to get a diagram?

thanks

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5 Suggested Answers

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Propane pilot light on water heater will not light

I don't understand, you say the pilot won't light but it does light when the stove lights?

Walk me through the procedure step by step.

Posted on Jan 21, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Comfort Glow Vent-free Gas Heater CGN18B

Check with Ebay seller s.a.w.inc for available thermocouples. If that doesn't solve the problem the valve unit will likely need replaced.

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: lighting the pilot light

The steps involved can vary slightly depending on your furnace model and pilot valve type, so if possible try and find the instructions inside the furnace door cover or in the instruction manual. This is for a gas fired furnace, but applies to any gas-fueled appliance including water heater. Two of the most common types of pilot valve body assemblies either have a red reset button and a gas valve or no reset button and a valve knob that can be depressed. But whichever type you've got, if you have an older model furnace with a standing pilot (flame is lit all the time) then this is the basic procedure.

  • Turn you thermostat to 80 degrees or to a setting that will demand heat. Make sure the thermostat is in "Heat" mode.
  • Go to the furnace and find the pilot valve. The pilot valve body is a box shaped device into which the main gas line will run and is located near the gas burners. It will usually have a gas **** or valve knob that reads "On, "Pilot" and "Off." Locate this gas **** or knob.
  • Turn the knob or gas **** to the "Off" position and wait about 3 minutes for any residual gas to clear away.
  • Find the pilot. It's located near the gas burner tube assembly in the furnace.
  • Get your match or lighter ready. Sometimes the pilot is hard to reach. If possible, try and use a long fireplace match when you light it. If you don't have a fireplace match then a butane BBQ grill lighter works well too. If you don't have that, then you can fasten a match to the end of a stick when you light the pilot
  • If you have a pilot with a red Reset button, turn the gas valve from "Off," to "Pilot."
  • If you have a pilot with no red button, turn the knob from "Off" to "Pilot."
  • Place the lit match or ignited lighter tip at the pilot and depress and hold the button or depress the knob as appropriate. Depress the button or knob for about 30 seconds. This maintains gas flow to the pilot until the thermocouple gets hot enough to open the main gas valve.
  • Once the pilot stays lit, slowly release the button or knob and turn the gas **** or knob from the "Pilot" position to the "On" position. This will ignite the burners and keep the flow of gas supplied as required for the burners as called for by the thermostat.
  • If the burners fail to ignite then it may be because the thermocouple did not get hot enough to open the gas valve. Wait a few minutes and then repeat the above procedure. This time hold the red reset button or depress the knob for about 45-60 seconds.
  • Once the main furnace burners ignite, adjust the thermostat to the desired setting.
  • If you've followed the previous steps on lighting the pilot and it still does not light after, or will not stay lit, then you probably have a problem with the thermocouple or an adjustment needs to be made to the pilot. You'll need a furnace service technician to replace or repair these parts. You may find that the pilot lights, but it is an anemic looking flame. That's a different problem we'll look at in the next section.
  • If the pilot lights but the flame is a weak yellow flame, it will not get hot enough to heat the thermocouple to its set point allowing the gas valve to open.
    A natural gas flame should be a bright blue with the tip of the flame having just a tinge of yellow. A propane flame should have a bluish green flame with a tinge of yellow at the tip. The flame should be strong enough to hit the thermocouple tip about 1/2 inch from the tip end. If the flame is weak or shaky looking, check to see that a breeze or draft is not blowing on it. Adjusting the Flame
    There is usually a small screw on the pilot valve body that will adjust the flame. You may have to refer to the manufacturer's instructions to find the screw. Turn the screw as needed to adjust the flame throw. Yellow Flame
    A yellow flame is caused by lack of air and incomplete combustion. It can be caused by a dirty pilot tube tip. Split Flame
    This is caused by dirt in the pilot tube. Take a needle or small nail and gently clean the tube. Flickering or Wavering Flame
    A flame that flickers is usually caused by a draft.
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated!!

Posted on Feb 18, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Rheem 40 gallon gas hot water heater, pilot light

To make a short story long (I need to include all details, sry)…

I got up one morning and realized that we did not have hot water. I re-lit the pilot light and as soon as the burner went out from heating the water up, the pilot light would go out. After reading several posts regarding this issue, it seemed apparent that the thermo-coupler was the problem. Since I am a little bit handy around the house and very tight when it comes to opening my wallet, I bought the device from Lowe’s ($8.98) that was recommended by my online advisors and after a few googles, figured out how to change it. No help. The pilot light still goes out.

I gave up and went to Home Depot to purchase and schedule the installation of a new hot water heater.

STICKER SHOCK

A new Direct Vent type water heater costs around $800 with an additional $450 for “special” installation. Add a few fees to that and the grand total came to about $1450.

I felt like I had no choice since my wife and 2 daughters refused to live their life without hot water and I had no clue about how to fix the dam thing.

The plumber assigned to the installation stopped by to evaluate the site conditions and quickly noted to me that the 8 year old water heater tank was in good condition and that the gas controller was probably faulty, which could be purchased online from the manufacturer. I quickly cancelled the Home Depot order and purchased the controller for about $120 after shipping and tax. Immediately after the installation it seemed that the problem had been solved. A few days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and explained the situation and he recommended that I purchase another controller because the one that was shipped to me was probably bad. I searched around town and found a plumbing supply company that had the correct model in stock. Two days later the pilot light was out. I cleaned up the controller and returned it to the store and asked the plumber to please schedule a visit to repair this dam thing.

When the plumber arrived, he hooked up a gauge in several locations and confirmed that the correct amount of gas (cfm) was being delivered to the controller, pilot light and burner. He then proceeded to remove the fire box to make sure that the igniter, thermo-coupler and pilot tip were set properly. He inspected the pilot light tip and said that he found the problem. Using about a 1/64” tip drill (can be purchased at a welding supply store), he cleaned the tiny hole that releases gas to the pilot light. I felt a sigh of relief because I was certain that the problem had been solved. $65 dollars (plumber’s fee for an hour of work) and 4 days later the pilot light went out.

I called the plumber and he said that the controller that I purchased online must be bad. Too embarrassed to return to the first plumbing supply store, I found another one in a different town that had the correct model in stock. Three days after changing the controller the pilot light went out. I returned the controller and a six pack later I decided to do some extensive googling.

The key term here is “DIRECT VENT”. This seems to be a very common problem with direct vent water heaters and I was about to find out the reason for this phenomenon. I read a post by an individual who wrote that if the vent becomes detached that the inflow of air can become contaminated and extinguish the pilot light. I decided that before I spent any more money on a plumber that I was going to take the vent apart and find out what makes it tick.

My direct vent system has 2 parts to the venting, an inner pipe (3” nominal diameter) that serves as the exhaust and the outer pipe (5” nominal diameter) that serves as the internal flow of air which supplies the pilot light and burner with oxygen. On the outside of the house a vent hood helps to segregate the two by extending the exhaust about 3” beyond the intake. I looked into the hood at the end of the pipes and discovered that the internal pipe which consisted of a 2 piece slip joint had come loose from the elbow that sets on top of the water heater. This slip joint pipe was not attached at any point with screws or clamps and was loosely setting over the elbow on one end and into the hood on the other end, allowing it to detach. Apparently, when atmospheric conditions were right, the burner idled down from heating up the water and extinguished the pilot light because the intake was saturated with CO2 from the connection failure.

I purchased a section of 3” pipe that was long enough to be installed in one piece. I connected it to the elbow using a stainless steel hose clamp. I had to disassemble the pipe 3 times to make adjustments to the length and position before I got it right, but I should not have any more problems with the pilot light.

The problem here is time. It takes a lot of time to get this right. When the plumbing contractors installed this unit during the construction of the house, there was no one around to make sure that they got it right. It is probably common to use a 2 piece slip joint type connection, but I feel like it should be attached with screws or clamps. In my opinion it is not rigid enough and can detach easily, especially if it is not installed properly. A one piece connection that is attached at one end with a hose clamp and then held in place at the other end by the hood is fool proof.

Posted on Sep 27, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kozy world propane wall heater. The pilot light will work

Sounds like you have a common problem with infrared heaters. They are very dust sensitive and they will light and then go out when they are dusty. If you have already tried to blow it out at home you need to take the heater to your propane dealer who will take the heater apart and blow it out correctly. They will then hook it up to their gas line and make sure that the problem is fixed. I hope that you haven't blown up into the bottom of the heater where the gas line is connected. There is a diaphragm up in there and if you blow into it you risk messing it up to where it won't work at all.

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

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Forget about changing to a High pressure regulator!

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1. The inline gas valve running to the the heater is OFF. Turn the valve ON.

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* Here is a link to a demonstration on how to properly clean the pilot & burners.
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