I have to glue a piece of metal over a rusted out portion of my grill so I can attach a new burner. What metal adhesive do you recommend to hold the part in place given the high temperatures it will see?

I would try a cyanoacrylate adhesive.

It is called a Match Extension. It lets you use an ordinary book match to light the burner by placing the lit match in the wire loop and holding it near ththe burner

The only solution I have found is to use a dremel type tool with metal cut-off wheels and cut the heads off of the screws to remove the burners. Once you have the burners removed, you will need to punch or drill out the bottom of the screw and put in new screws to hold the burners in place.

I know, it's a bear, once the grill is a few years old. Aside from that, you'd expect the R & D Dept to come up with a better way to attach the 'U' shaped burners, for a grill that is one of the most expensive ones on the market.

In any event, I found that if the screw heads are badly rusted, using an easy out or drilling the screw out, is about the only way to do it. If you drill it out, start with a small diameter bit and work your way up. Of course, you'll have to use a little larger diameter sheet metal screw to attach the new burner(s). I highly recommend Stainless Steel Screws, in case you ever have to replace the burners again.

Hope this helped you get them out. Please let me know and Happy grilling!!

Auto parts stores sell "Rear view mirror adhesive" - special glue for mirrors. TIP: Follow instructions to the T or you'll be doing it over.

Rust is very common for this part, but you don't have to match the original OEM holder to pass inspection and have functioning license plate light. You can use an aftermarket bulb and bulb holder and attach the holder for the tag light with a metal strap, wire, or even use some trim adhesive and glue to the outside area if the new light holder is not too heavy. Ask at the Auto Parts store and they can give you solutions regarding mounting options for the new bulb and holder or even to reattach your old one in a new way.

The wires unplug from the back of the mirror. It is a very small plastic plug that clips into place and can be pulled off with wiring connections to plug intact; when done with repairs, plug it back on.

The little silver piece you are referring to is the mounting button which is normally affixed to the windshield by glue/adhesive substance. It is difficult to remove from the mirror bracket but is designed to be removed by depressing the black metal tang attached to the bracket at the front base of the button where it slides into the bracket. It took me 15 minutes to figure it out and 10 tries to get it depressed while also sliding the button out over the metal tang. Good luck! The button will then need to be cleaned and new glue/adhesive purchased from auto parts store for $5-$7. Glue it back, wait a while and remount mirror on it.

I would suggest first lifting them out, give them good brush with wirebrush, check if holes are not clogged, check for any not surface damage, they ususally rust bit over on the surface and that is all.

If grill flame is working correctly, and grating have still "decent" thickness and is not falling to pieces, I would still use them normally.

Rust on the grate is usually caused by not using it and exposure to rain/water, as this grating is usually rather solid, surface rust will not affect it. If you have model with stainless graing - there should be no rust on stainless...

That is one of the reasons why you should not wash your grill after use! Fat from cooked food is protecting it from environment.

Hope this will help your worries at bay :-) Enjoy your grill!

yes. These screws are literally rusted in place. Begin by squirting each one with WD-40 Penetrating Lubricant. Let that sit over night so the lube will indeed penetrate. The next day the screws may back out, if not and you can get a pair of needle-nosed locking pliers on them, back em out that way. As a last resort, drill them out. Joe

The only way I was able to get the screws out was to use a 5/16" cobalt drill bit to drill through the center of each screw. Then, and only then, was the GrabIT screw extraction tool able to grip and remove each screw. Of course, I had to break off what was left of the burned out burners first to get easy access to the screws. To replace the burners, remove 3 screws (in an L shaped pattern) from the left side of the burner control panel. I did NOT have to remove the utility shelf to get to these screws. The control panel can then be moved forward about an inch, thereby enabling the new burner tubes to fit into their gas spouts. TIPS: It was easier for me to attach the back of the new burners before trying to attach the fronts. I used new 6-32 machine screws to attach them. You'll need to look from the bottom of the burner control panel when attaching the front of the new burners -- to see better.