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'Crackling' Noises Most of the times when I plug my Viewty into a power source it starts to make cracking noises straight away. This also continues for about 20-30 minuets after taking the phone off the power source. What should I do? Thanks, Andy

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This happened to my phone not too long after i purchased it.
I had to have the curcit board replaced.

Posted on Aug 23, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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I have bought an optical fibre cable to connect from my jamo a305 to my new sony nx810 tv and im getting a buzzing sound, there are 2 optical fibre outputs on the back of the amp, which one do i connect it...


Have you looked at the manuals?

http://www.retrevo.com/search?q=sony+nx810

A TV won't run external speakers directly. Besides, the TV-related audio should originate at, say, the cable Box, and go straight to your (presumed) AV receiver for the best possible decoding and reproduction.


Buzzing is an analog phenomenon and is NOT carried by optical cable in any case.

Buzzing is usally AC line noise leaking into an un-shielded cable somewhere or a floating ground. If the AC plug is reversible, try that. Sometimes the buzz is from an attached device. Make sure all audio cables are plugged in tightly at each end and routed away from or at right angles to any power cords and away from other sources of strong magnetic fields like TV's. I've also seen variable track lights induce noise but it's usually minor.

Try rotating the power cord in the wall outlet.

If it still buzzes with no cables or anything external attached there's an internal problem.

Disconnect the input(s) and see if it hums in the absence of an audio source. A bad audio cable shield or unwisely-routed audio cables will allow entrance of unwanted signals from external power sources, magnetic fields, even dimmer-controlled track lights. Sometimes, simply reversing the orientation of the ac power plug can eliminate humming.

Reverse the cables Left to Right to see if it stays with the cable or the input channel. Follow it back to the source, isolating in the same manner. Eventually you will find the entrance point of the hum. Frequently a cable's ground will oxidize over time and simply removing and reattaching the cable with a twisting motion will re-establish the shield.

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I transmit fine but unless im close to someone when they talk the static over rides them and i can not understand them and i am also picking up alternater noise


Interference / noise elimination can be a test for how much money you want to spend and how deep you're willing to look. CB radios are AM and prone to noise. Here are some things you can try to eliminate or determine the source of the noise. Understand that there are only 2 ways for noise to enter the radio: power leads or antenna lead.

Connect the power leads directly to the battery - not the accessory terminal of the fuse block - nor "tap" into an existing 12 V power line you happen to find. Turn the radio on to an unused channel - it should be fairly static free. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. It should still be clear - but if you hear a sudden spike of noise that lasts a few seconds before stopping, the static is likely to be coming from your fuel pump in your gas tank. The pump runs to pressurize the fuel lines to the fuel injectors when the key is turned to START. The Ford Explorer is notorious for this - but cab be reduced by following this link. It may work for your car, too.

Turn the ignition key to start the engine and let the engine run at idle speed. Listen to the radio as you vary the RPM from idle to 1000 - 1500 and let settle to idle again. Popping sounds that keep time with the speed of the engine is likely yo be ignition noise. This is caused by the high voltage (10,000 + volts) ignition system that provides spark for combustion in the cylinders. You vehicle may have more than one location where spark occurs. The spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor and coil are the primary sources of ignition noise. Replace broken, cracked, or otherwise damaged components and change the wires and spark plugs to "radio resistor" types. If a rising and falling whine is heard, the source is likely the alternator.

If there was no change - disconnect the antenna from the connector at the back of the radio. If the sound magically goes away - the vehicle and radio power are filtered very well - the noise in entering via the antenna lead.

Install a "filter" on the radio power leads - as close to the radio as possible. The power leads act like an "antenna" for all kinds of under-hood noise sources and carry it right into the radio.

Install a "filter" on the radio power leads - as close to the radio as possible. Since the power leads act like an "antenna" for all kinds of under-hood noise sources and carry it right into the radio, they should be stopped before they enter the radio. A coil (called a "choke") inserted between the power source and the radio along with a capacitor between the 12V + lead and ground is an effective filter. These filters are commercially available everywhere and also on eBay.

If the noise is getting in the coax cable, make sure your antenna is well grounded. Resist the temptation to use a "mag mount" as the ground is poor if not non-existent. Some have had some luck using snap choke cores but I haven't used them myself.

Lastly, don't expect to remove ALL the noise. You'd be the first to do so. Some methods work better than others. You can find a wealth of info by googling "CB Noise Filter" or "12V filter" (no quotes)

Please rate this if it was helpful - good luck!

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If it still does not work, insert the external drive into the computer, feel the hard drive if it spins/vibrate from inside or if it makes a cracking noise.

If it spins/vibrate, it means the hard disk is still working. In that case, you have to get another external drive case/cover.

But if it makes cracking noise, then it means the hard drive is damaged and you need to get another one.
All the best.

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