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Re: broken water paddle
Be sure to unplug the refrigerator.
remove the drip tray by sliding it forward.. then remove two screws . slide the dispencer cover up two screw hold in the control remove water line two screws hold in water paddle. remove paddle and wire.
to replace water line use a long screw driver to push back into cover. make sure it extends bellow outlet..
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On the bottom of the bezel around the dispenser you will find 2 very thin slots. You push in a flat blade pocket screw driver and pry it up then lift the bezel up and off. Now look at the switch. It should have one mounting screw and a plastic pin sticking through the other mounting hole in the switch body. I'll bet that pin is broken and the switch is not making contact with the dispenser paddle. If it is broken you'll have to order that back plate . there may be nothing wrong with the switch. If the plastic pin is there, then the switch is indeed bad.
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I do not know what type of ice maker you have. Some have wire arms on the side, some have a downward plastic curved arm and some have a paddle arm on the side.
Some ice makers when they harvest have a plastic ice mold that rotate and flex, others have a little heater that heats the mold then activates finger arms to rotate and sweep the cubes from the mold.
Bad Sensor? All ice makers have temperature sensors. The sensor activates the harvesting of ice cubes when it senses the cubes are frozen. On some plastic ice cube molds it is a white wire on the bottom of the mold. On the cast steel molds the sensor is in contact with the mold at the front end.
Bad Motor Module? All ice makers have a motor module. The module has a control board and plastic gearing for the motor with in the module. The motor module is the assembly in front of the ice maker. The motor module tells the water valve when & how much water to fill the mold. It tells the mold heater, on the cast steel molds when to turn on after it reads the temperature sensor and then it tells the motor when to start rotation.
Not all ice makers can be repaired. Most are solid state.
The ice maker with the cast steel mold can be repaired. Remove the ice maker - Unscrew the one screw under the ice maker. Loosen the 2 screws on top so you can lift up and remove the ice maker from the wall. With a small screw driver wedge in the wire harness connector to free the icemaker. Pop the front cover off (No screws). Unscrew the 3 screws on the motor module and remove. This part is replaceable. Inspect for Burn marks and broken gearing. Unscrew the 2 screws to the heater and mold assembly to access the sensor - this is replaceable. There is no way to test this sensor.
All of you guys are wrong. What that person is saying is that the physical paddle used when you place your glass in the dispenser bay and press against the paddle....That's what's broken the paddle......
The problem is actually in the dispenser lever. The paddle that you press to dispense ice has a plastic lever/arm that extends behind it (you can't see it, it's up high in the assembly.) This plastic lever presses upwards when you push the paddle and presses into a switch. The switch actuates the ice. This little lever is also the ONLY thing that stops the paddle from continuing to press into the water paddle. So when the lever breaks, it creates your two symptoms - no ice and if you press further, you press the water switch and get water.
You need part# DA97-08519A. This is the lever assembly with the switches. You pry the control panel assembly (the whole digital display above the water/ice dispenser) out by inserting a slim pry bar (I used a pocket knife and didn't damage the finish) on one side and working my way around. The assembly is held in place by five plastic tabs (two on each side and one on the top.) When this is removed, the part# above will be obvious.
I removed the control panel (2 tabs under the front edge) removed the 4 screws holding on the paddle assembly and removed the assembly. The disk is glued on the back( I used super glue). If it happens in the future I would try to glue it on without removing everything. If you use a mirror you can see the detent where the disk mounts to the paddle and glue it back on. The disks function is to push on the switch that is located behind a gray rubber panel behind the paddle.
Remove the dispenser cover by gently prying starting at the
bottom going round and round a little at a time to prevent from breaking it.
When it's off the screws will be exposed to access the other components.
The part the hinge fits into may be broken or the hinge it's self.
remove the bottom pan by pulling it out, then you will see three screws. remove the screws. Push the fram up which will unlatch it. The asbly will now come out. pull the water hose and the electrical connector, and you'll see the screws that hold the paddle.
I had the same problem with my water dispenser and since they were willing to sell me a part but provided no directions and I couldn't locate any I decided to make my own for those who might need them. Here is a link to a PDF I made, hope it helps.