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CLR2060 Clear Ice Maker Won't Freeze

This started out as a water line problem. Fixed that and the unit wouldn't freeze. It would start to cool and then it warms right back up. Called ULINE and they said it's the control board. $250 later, replaced the board and the thermistors and the exact same problem. ULINE techs have no idea what the problem. They insist the sealed system has a leak, but there are no leaks. Unit is not quite four years old and very clean. No oil or signs of any kind of leaking.

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  • j2jbrown Aug 08, 2008

    Sealed unit, no way to check it. No signs of leakage, though.

  • j2jbrown Aug 08, 2008

    This is a stand alone ice maker, not a refrigerator. Any suggestions why we're having such problems?

  • j2jbrown Aug 10, 2008

    Sounds like no one has every worked on this machine before, because all that I'm getting are guesses. We had to replace a leaking waterline and when we plugged it back in, it wouldn't freeze. We called manufacturer and said we need to replace circuit board, which we did. Same problem. Freon is fine, wiring is fine (unit is 3 years old). If we crank the ice thickness up to the highest level, it starts to freeze and then immediately defrosts. This unit seems to short-cycle but no one (not even manufacturer) knows the issue. I am hoping someone has actually seen this machine and can spread some light on this issue. The machine is quite basic, so we are truly baffled by this problem.

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If the refrigorator is not cooling and that is what it sounds like it is not doing. than get a 3in1 from your local appliance store. and replace the relay on the comprssor.... alot of the time the reays go bad and won't allow the fridge to cool..... You can also get a factory relay that will just pop on like the old one. a 3 in 1 relay you will have to wire in......

the relay tells the compressor to cool stop ect......
i would start with this. it will be the cheapest thing to start with.... the 3 in 1 is only about 10 to 15 dollars.

Posted on Aug 10, 2008

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Go for new freon

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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Go through the following site which will provide u the manual n diagrammatic instructions about ur unit.may be it will help u out to reach n rectify the exact problem.

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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Dear Sir/madam,

Click this link for the manual and read the instructions from page no. 30 to 37....

http://dl.owneriq.net/b/b99a53b9-52f3-4b81-8287-8f5c7badfbc5.pdf


Thanks
Good Luck


Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals...

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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J2,

I believe the problem is electrical. Bad wiring doesn't give the unit the juice required to stay cold, and it needs quite a bit of that. I'm sorry but the whole unit has to be replaced, or completely gutted and new electrical wiring put in.

Good luck and take care,
Chimpster

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. From repairclinic

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

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  • 623 Answers

Might be low on freon check it

Posted on Aug 08, 2008

  • ritchie dempacco
    ritchie dempacco Aug 10, 2008

    check your condenser....



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1 Answer

I have a Scotsman CME 506 ice maker. After running a cleaning cycle it won't run. After resetting the freeze light blinks and nothing happens. The water inlet valve never opens (the sump is current


CM3 Operational Sequence.
From Off, push and release the freeze button.
1. If sump is full,water pump starts.If sump is not full,water valve opens to fill it.
2. Compressor starts when sump is full.Air cooled fan motor starts too.
3. water pump stops early in freeze cycle for 30 seconds.
4. Sump refills after pump starts.
5. In low ambient condition,fan motor may begin to cycle on and off.
6. Freeze continues until water level in sump drops to preset point. Exceptions: SCE275 must fill sump two more times.
7. Fan may shut off before the end of freeze.
8. Harvest begins. Hot gas valve opens,pump stops.
9. Pump restarts, inlet water valve opens to fill and overflow the reservoir.
10. Harvest continues for preset first cycle harvest time.
11. If bin is not full, cycle repeats ( compressor stays on). If bin is full, unit shuts off at the end of harvest.
OK with that out of the way unless you unplugged any wires cleaning the machine should not have caused any problems. First cut off water and pull water supply line from water inlet valve look in the end of valve there is a screen in there it could be stopped up. If the valve screen is not stopped up then put supply water line back on and turn water back on. power the CM3 controller off. push freeze button. now with a voltage meter check at the water inlet valve to make sure you are getting power to the valve.If you are then either valve is stopped up or valve is bad. If you are not getting power to valve then replace the CM3 controller now make sure the bin full light is not on because if it is this will not let controller go back to a freeze cycle.

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To know were the heater is located .Please check on this link:

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