The oven pilot light does not stay on when Iet go of it after the initial 1 minute. I figure the safety feature is broken and the fixture needs to be replaced. I live in a remote area, am technical, have children, and need my oven. I called the nearest repair place, it would cost me over $500 just to have them drive to see what the problem is. I described it to them but what do I know. (That's how they acted.) Can I get the replacement part and replace it myself or have a local someone do it? please help me I am desperate!! SD
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you cannot light the pilot on that oven manually. that oven is eletronic ignition. take off the panel under the doors, turn on the oven, and turn the thermostat to 350. if you see sparking on both the right and left burners, you and it doesnt light, you need to see if the gas solenoid on the right side of the burner is getting power. if it is and nothing lit relace it. if it is not, replace the ignition board
If the glowbar is light up then you have a circuit and all components are working. So Houston why don't we have ignition? Today's new fangled ovens use silicone carbide ignition. The oven safety valve has a bi-metal inside it. In order for it to open and allow gas to flow the resistance in the circuit must change. As that glowbar heats up it changes the resistance in the circuit. If it can pull 3.5 amps or better then that bi-metal will open allow gas to hit the burner. That is yall's built in safety feature. If a glowbar looks real dim and takes a while to come on if at all then it is weak. Whirlpool also has another type of oven that uses a safety valve with a thermocouple attached to it. A pilot light is on all the time on these and no power is needed to operate this stove. Over time the thermocouples cooper-nickel tip will wear out and won't hold the oven safety valve open. Other variations of this is a standby pilot and electronic spark pilot and a flame switch added onto a safety valve. Newer models use a computer board along with AC power to fire the igniters and DC power to open the distribution valve. Your broiler is working so I am sure your stove ain't got the DSI ignition system and you have not mentioned anything about a pilot light so I am assuming you simply have a weak glowbar. Video:
I have seen Garland's have issues with the pilot light. see if you can watch the cycle.It may takes several minutes. I have seen where the pilot actually lifts off the pilot assembly and go out and cause oven to fail. Turning off and on resets the failure and sometimes it will light. Start there and be patient.
Your safety valve is bad. You could try repositioning the thermocouple probe but bootm line is these cannot be repaired they must be replaced. The new safety orifice ain't gonna be adjusted you will have to do that. Match the height of the old one with the new part by turning the orifice with a nice fitting wrench post your model number so I can look up just what you have. Checking oven safety valve: HERE
pilot sensing device should have tip in the flame only, calibration of thermostat possible with butto removed, if standing pilot is going out possible thermocouple or pilot generator or gas valve bad! could also be a safety hi limit opening in control circuit if has one?
I would take out the pilot and clean it up and see what happens,also look behind the unit and see if theres a gas regulator on the gas line,if so you will see a nut on it take it off with a pair of pliers and clean as well.that valve is actually the saftey valve,when the pilot lights the flame impinges on the thermocouple and that sends a millivolt back to that valve in order to open.if none of these resolve your problem i would replace the thermocouple first as this is a cheap part and easy to put on.if you need a part # i can give it to you.let me know.