My bosch 21E (infinity style) hot water system has an intermittant fault where the flame does not appear to be able to stay on (or properly light). Once water is started to the unit I can hear the ignitor go on and the fan start (and I think I can gear the flame light too) but then almost immediately it sounds like the flame goes out and tries to reignite. It never actually lights properly though, just continues the same ignite-fan-flame out-ignite cycle. After a while (a day or so) it seems to go away. It doesn't seem related to rain but does seem more prevalent on cold days. is there anything I can do without calling a plumber? Cheers, Pete

If your Bosch Highflow 21e hot water system is experiencing fluctuations in water temperature while showering, it could be caused by a few different factors. Here are some possible reasons for this issue:

1. Flow rate too high: The hot water system may not be able to keep up with the demand if the showerhead or tap is allowing too much water to flow through. This can cause the water temperature to drop suddenly. Try reducing the flow rate by turning down the tap or using a low-flow showerhead.
2. Water pressure fluctuations: If the water pressure in your home fluctuates, it can cause the hot water temperature to vary. This can be caused by various factors, such as other appliances using water at the same time, or changes in municipal water supply pressure. Installing a pressure regulator or a flow restrictor may help to stabilize water pressure.
3. Blocked or dirty water filter: A clogged or dirty water filter in the hot water system can restrict water flow, causing the water temperature to fluctuate. Check the filter and clean or replace it if necessary.
4. Malfunctioning thermostatic mixing valve: The thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) regulates the water temperature in the hot water system. If it's faulty or dirty, it can cause temperature fluctuations. A licensed plumber or technician can inspect the valve and replace it if necessary.
5. Faulty temperature sensor or control board: If the temperature sensor or control board in the hot water system is faulty, it may not be able to maintain a consistent water temperature. A technician can diagnose the issue and repair or replace the faulty component.

If you're unsure about how to diagnose or fix the issue with your hot water system, it's best to contact a licensed plumber or technician for assistance.

Before calling service technician, open following links for troubleshoot resources including common error codes, Bosch contact information, link to service manuals, and possible product manual
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Bosch-Tankless-water-heater.html
http://www.boschhotwater.com/HelpfulResources/TechnicalSupport/BoschAquaStarModels/2400ESTechSupport/Troubleshooting/tabid/1295/Default.aspx

Call Bosch 800-642-3111
Multiple error codes can mean PC board failure.
AF might be A9, but not sure.
EA is 'no flame ionization detected with water flow'

1. Verify that all manual gas shut off valves are open.
   
2. Check gas type.
   
3. Reset error code and open a water tap to cycle the heater in an effort to purge air on new installations. Cycling hot water tap on and off multiple times may be necessary. If heater still faults with EA error code, have a licensed gas technician properly purge air out of the gas line leading to the water heater.
   
4. Check three wire connections to ignition group on the lower front of the heat exchanger are secure.
   
5. Check gas pressure.
   
6. Check venting specifications are met. Improper venting may cause premature failure of the flame sensor rod.
   
7. Check that the minimum power fan speed has been adjusted to the proper value.
   
8. Observe inside the viewing window of the heat exchanger when a hot water tap is opened. Sparking should be followed by a steady blue flame. If flame is unstable or yellow with proper gas pressure.

http://www.digelair.net/pdfs/TECHLIT/BOSCH/MANUALS/Bosch-ProTankless_AM.pdf
http://www.bosch-climate.us/files/201009031238250.GWH715ES_English_12.2008.pdf

Above are the manuals required to diagnose and service your error code.

EA: No flame ionization detected with water flow.
Verify that all manual gas shut off valves are open. Check gas type. Reset error code and open a water tap to cycle the heater in an effort to purge air on new installations. Cycling hot water tap on and off multiple times may be necessary. If heater still faults with EA error code, have a licensed gas technician properly purge air out of the gas line leading to the water heater. Check three wire connections to ignition group on the lower front of the heat exchanger are secure. Check gas pressure. Check venting specifications are met. Improper venting may cause premature failure of the flame sensor rod. Check that the minimum power fan speed has been adjusted to the proper value. Observe inside the viewing window of the heat exchanger when a hot water tap is opened. Sparking should be followed by a steady blue flame. If flame is unstable or yellow with proper gas pressure.

Consult your owners manual.
http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/downloads/70R_UserManual1023.pdf
Heres a new one if you don't have or lost yours. You can't, you got bad advice. tankless system don't have a running pilot light. They operate by detecting water flow and then turning on. Many also state on the lighting instructions to NEVER try and manually light the pilot. Try Bosch tech support. Lowes sells Bosch heaters and they might be able to help you get the support number faster. Hope this helps but please don't go sticking a flame inside there.

Wild guess, but washing machine use solenoid valves that turn on and off instantly, causing a great deal of hammering of the entire water system.
Regardless of whether or not this fixes your current problem, you really should install a large air canister to buffer the shock in the system. Normally I would suggest installing in the cold line just after it enters the house, but with your solar heating system, you need one after it as well, because there is quite a bit if switching going on. It is quite possible the switching is the problem and not the Bosch heater. Try bypassing the Hills system and see if that helps?

You may have a dirty pilot orifice. Try this. Turn off the pilot by turning the control knob to off. Remove the front panel to get access to the pilot orifice. Use a can of compressed air with attached straw (the same stuff you use to clean computer keyboards) and blow out the pilot orifice, which is inside the pilot assembly where the pilot flame burns. Blow it out from the top and from the sides through the air holes. Then relight the pilot and see if that improves the flame size and color (blue) to heat the thermocouple.
Here is a link to the manual and instructions. www.tanklesswaterheatersdirect.com/shop/tanklesswaterheaters/manuals/125B_manual.pdf

I would check to make sure thermocouple is in proper position in pilot flame. If so and pilot won't stay lit I would replace thermocouple. Thanks

I have the same problem with the same model. The problem has been identified by a friend of mine, correctly, I think.
This is a very dangerous problem involving Bosch's much touted safety feature, ironically enough. IT IS THE FLAME SENSOR IN THE GAS VALVE. The flame sensor is supposed to confirm that the pilot has lighted BEFORE the main gas line sends gas to the main burners, after which the pilot shuts off. The pilot light is not coming on, the sensor that shouldn't let gas fto the main burners is failing and the main gas is flowing and ignighting from the spark that is supposed to light only the pilot in a big explosion.
This is the 2nd unit of this model that has failed. I think Bosch should do a recall

micro switch