Question about AKG C451B Professional Microphone
I have a loose ("miniXLM") small Tuchel connector mounted a bottom of microphone stem which is loose and when moved causes electrical noise. I have removed a small set screw near bottom of stem which appears to be locking screw for screw in Tuchel connector, but I am unable to tighten connector. Do you have a suggestion? Other than this problem, microphone operates properly.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: AKG Model C451 EB Microphone.
I drilled a tiny hole (.038") through the outer shell and the cartdrige where the body of the XLR connector is mounted and screwed a tiny screw into it from a pair of old glasses.
Posted on Sep 30, 2008
I have similar problems with inputing stereo sound. How do you know your mic port on the PC is set for stereo? What kind of a cable are you using? If it is an XLR, the connection is pure mono. Maybe you need a TRS cable, which looks like a 1/4 inch jack but is really stereo. Maybe you need a stereo mini. Usually a cable mismatch is the problem. Is your phantom power supply passing stereo? All the ones I have seen are mono. You may need two. Is your sound capture set for stereo? Are the input level controls set correctly for equal volume on left or right channel? I would try the mic with a regular amplifier to insure both channels are working. Then trace the signal from mic to power supply and power supply to computer.
Posted on Dec 03, 2008
Well, if it's not the cord it has to be the mic plug and it sounds to me like it's loose even thought you can't see that it is. If I could get my hands on it, I could fix it -- but that won't likely happen -- so I'd say it's off to the repair shop.
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
How to repair a C3000B with low output.
I had the same problem, and was able to repair it myself. i've seen several other posts with the same description, and if you can use a soldering iron, you're golden. I just now repaired mine, and it took less than 10 minutes. One of the leads going from the PCB board to the capsule was broken loose at the solder joint. Mine has been dropped, so no surprise. Somehow, if you boost the signal enough, you still get sound, where I would have expected silence.
You need a star bit set (I have a little mult-mini screwdriver set that has them stored in the handle from home depot.) There are two silver screws in the bottom lip. Remove these and the whole screen housing slides off. Even better, the capsule assembly slides out too. There are two prongs that plug into a harness when inserted.
There are two black wires from said prongs to capsule leads. See if one is loose. If so, solder that ***** back on and its as good as new, and hot signal.
You also need small plyers, someting to strip the small. I know this is a late post, but maybe it will elp somone. Good luck.
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
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