Question about Dryers
I'm assuming this is an electric dryer. The following link will hopefully assist you in narrowing down which component may be defective in your dryer:
Now...before you go tearing your dryer apart, take a voltage reading at the wall receptacle first. A reading across the two hot leads (the long narrow slots) should read 220-240 VAC. If its only reading 1/2 the voltage (110-120 VAC) one leg of your primary voltage is missing. This means you may require an electrician to check your outlet for burned or broken wires. The reaosn the dryer will still run is because the dryer motor only requires 110 VAC to run. The heating circuits, however, require 220 VAC. This will give the symptom of a dryer that runs, but does not heat.
Typically, there is a thermal fuse and/or thermal cut-out located near the heating circuits. This component acts as a fuse and will blow when the heating ciruits overheat. The information in the link I provided will give you all resistance check reading for the components.
If you require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
PS If this is a GAS dryer, please post back and let me know. Your possible bad components will be different from an electric dryer.
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
If your electric dryer doe not heat up, it could be the heating element opened ( meaning no current flow thru it, and no heat), thermostat or an over-temp sense switch tripped. These over temp 'snap type" switches are used as a failsafe to protect against unsafe temperatures as well as to prevent fires. Some of these switches have a reset button on them ( similar to those found on garbage disposers) and you may have to reset it manually to enable power to the heating element. These switches are situated in such a manner that if your vent system is clogged, temperature inside the dryer will exceed the safe limit and trip that switch. If you are reasonably handy and feel confident that you can safely troubleshoot and/or repair one of these components, it should be relatively simple to rule out the heater element as the problem by measuring its resistance with an ohm meter ( Obviously, all testing of this nature should be done wiith power disabled). Heating elements vary in resistance so any value that isn't an open ( meaning no continuity thru it) implies it is probably OK. If it does measure as an open, that is your problem and it needs replacement. Hope that helps...
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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